Just bought a Spyder GS and the AC compressor cycles on off, but doesnt have any shuddering groaning vibrations and does get cool when it cycles on. Took it in to a shop for repair, they perform the evac and recharge but the pressure is fluctuating and woulnt take a full charge. Their diagnosis...

Have you actually checked with a volt meter if its getting the power all the way to the fuel pump when its hot? A rewire isnt going to help if the original relay behind the radio isnt engaging. Ive got a Walbro and it gets pretty hot here in SoCal, I dont have a problem getting my tank low to...

What are typical 60' times i should expect from an auto GST with a 16g @ ~20psi? Any launch tricks i can/should apply? Any pointers on how to brake boost?Not sure if this should be in Drag Strip category? or Newbie?

So really this topic is more like "Does anyone know the stickers used in the fast and the furious

I did not find one started by you bastarddsm. Here are the links to refs that i did read up on. As far as 1g FPRs the results were inconclusive as far as what was etched on them and whether it was concave or flat on top, which is why im trying to bring it up again...

Is there anything visual to identify the differences of 1g fuel rails and FPRs?1g fuel rail 91-94 turbo vs non-turbo im aware of 90 model having a different inlet angle1g FPR turbo manual (37psi), turbo auto (43psi), non-turbo

Years ago i ran 17psi on a T28 with a rewired stock pump and Evo 560cc injectors. Wideband showing 10.3 and still had a good bit to go. Dont know the duty-cycle of the injectors, but as far as the pump it held up fine

Are you making sure the reservoir never goes empty while bleeding it?

Can anyone confirm what starter i have so i can advertise it? I think its for an auto trans 2g turbo but id like to confirm it.

This was/is a running car, not a swap. I only changed the starter. Therefore i can presume that it has a correct plate, and yes the bolts go all the way through the trans and plate because my old starter was on there. Last night I reinstalled my original starter because it was only happening...

Original starter would spin but not engage. Bought a used starter from another 2g GST locally and its grinding my flywheel. Ive now learned that the differences is auto/manual rather than fwd/awd. I didnt pay attention whether it was auto or manual as i had my mind on being a fwd model, and ive...

Quoting myself here :)Finally solved this problem this past weekend. You guys were right on, turned out to be my inner tie-rods. The ball-socket joint that i was referring to was the actual inner joint, I thought i was looking for a tie-rod end similar to the outers but on the inners. It was...

I read somewhere a while back that Evo injectors will fit fine on DSMs, but DSM injectors on an Evo will need to shave off a little hump on the ends of the injectors.

Yes, but now the bosses for the wastegate bracket is 180° off, you'll either need to fab a custom bracket to be able to mount the wastegate or go external gate.

you can use google for the code definition

Ive got warm air coming out of the driver side door vent only, all other vents are room temp including pass side door vent. Is there a blend door specifically for the doors? This is with the thermostat dial on max cold and AC Off. With AC On all other vents are cold while the driver side door...

Honestly, if it were me id rather not receive help from douche bags like you. If you think harsh words are necessary for automobile repairs and maintenance, id tell you to GTFO here! And then you try to clean it up by saying youre his friend. FU!

Mounted on the intake manifold or firewall? I dont see it

I get the method, but how do you differentiate between inner & outer with that method? Same goes for the "try turning your steering wheel slightly left then right" method. I see both inners & outers as possibilities for both methods

I tested the outer tie rods the last time I had the wheels off and there was no play, but i dont recall seeing inner tie-rods, i thought i saw ball-socket type of connection from the steering rack to the tie-rod

Ive got a boost leak that i cannot locate, i hear it behind the intake manifold (driver side) near or above the AC compressor area. What components are back there?

Still dealing with this problem. It happens during braking, but the chattering is from the steering wheel. Im thinking now that it may be the steering rack. The steering rods have a slight clunk to them when pushed & pulled, but both sides seem to have an equal amount of slight clunk leading me...

I've checked for boost leak and verified it as well by watching my AFRs and look look right on target still. No pre-turbo exh leak. Car runs & drives perfectly fine in normal driving. My other thought was a clogged aftermarket catalytic. But the fact that the wastegate arm had play all over...

I bought an Evo3 16G a few months ago that was lazy on building boost. I shimmed the wastegate with 3 washers for a total of about .190" inch, and everything has been good since, well 4 months later and I notice the turbo losing peak boost, and then a few days later it was lazy to build boost...

Is the location of where the gauge is placed critical? Does it make a difference if its placed BEFORE the fuel rail? The aftermarket AFPRs are AFTER the rail and im wondering if the reading would be skewed because of that.

This is happening with the OEM fuel pump. I know my profile says Walbro 190 but that was from a car i had years ago and im unable to change my profile.

I spliced into the line from fuel filter to fuel rail inlet and Tee'd in a pressure gauge, and i get 48 psi with the FPR line connected, and 52 psi disconnected. It is a stock fuel regulator and the car runs and drives perfectly fine. Should i correct it or leave it alone?The gauge i used was...

Maybe chattering is the wrong word, its more of a light but fast pulsing to the chassis. You can feel it transfer to the steering wheel which narrows it down to the fronts i would think. I went for a drive yesterday and noticed it takes not only firm braking, but speeds above ~25mph as well...

It sounds like its from the front driver, but i would not rule out the rear. In fact my next move was going to inspect the rear.

I can feel a chattering on the chassis when applying the brakes firmly. It doesnt feel like the discs are warped because i dont feel it on the brake pedal and the sound of the pulsing is rather fast for warped discs. Ive checked around the steering knuckle area, A-arms, ball joints and didnt...

Well I feel much better knowing it wasnt actually running leaner than 12.0 AFRs. When I said 11.0 its actually bouncing around 10.9 10.8 so the voltage reference is probably correct... One thing i should note is my ground is connected to the cigarette lighter ground because my +12V was initially...

Ive never seen that formula, do different manufacturers have their own formulas? Ive read several threads now with the (V x 2) +10 and one in particular was discussing an Innovate wideband so that is what i followed.Given that new formula, i guess my car just likes it at 10.3 then

My Innovate MTX-L wideband doesnt seem to be in sync with its own analog wideband output. Ive dialed in my AFRs to 11.0 on the gauge but the analog output reads 1.16V, and according to the formula (10 + Vx2 = AFR) equates to 12.32 AFR. At this setting i get knock in several areas and think i can...

Well i guess i dont feel so bad anymore :) That makes 2 of us with the same mistake less than a month apart

This same thing happened to me just last month. I was drilling a broken turbo hole through my exh manifold and the drill bit broke. I thought i heard it fall to the ground so i thought nothing of it. Finished up the install and when i test drove I got no boost...Fast forward >> I remove the...

Which exhaust would flow more?2-1/2" without a catalytic 3" with a Hi-flow catalyticAlso which would be quieter between them?

I understand the tire selection, but doesnt the diameter have an effect on it as well?

Looking for tire size suggestions for a fwd with a Quaiffe LSD. This will not be for daily use so i dont mind the fuel economy or how it will look. Basically im debating on 225/45-16 and 235/40-17 and am looking for the best launch and acceleration combo. I know the common /typical size is...

Ill be buying an LC-1 or LC-2 wideband soon and im interested in this as well. How about using the heater wires to power up the wideband itself?

The check valve in the link is 3/8" NPT is HUGE!! I got this one McMaster-Carr

My clutch begins to engage at a very low point, and i have the free play set pretty tight (about 1/2") Is this normal for Centerforce clutches?I have bled the clutch and have no air bubbles, no leaks, cars runs fine but the long travel of the clutch is quite annoying

The 98/99 ECU appeals to me since its more of a direct swap, whereas the 95 EPROM had to reconfigure the ignition wires and the CAS? Or was the CAS only required for 6-bolt conversions? I cant remember anymore, its been a while

I havent been on here for several years and i see whole new options for tuning, Evo8 ECU in a 2G, ECU Flash, EvoScan, CeddyMods. I did quite a bit of reading and looks like 98/99 ECUs are flashable? Wow how times have changed, I remember only the 95s with the EPROM + DSMLink option (stand alones...

Ive been driving it around for the past couple days and noticed that the problem comes back when i get on the gas. Letting it cool down or driving it lightly will make it run normal again. After doing some reading, it seems that this problem may be the power transistor for the ignition...

Car died on the road and had to push it to the side, I crank it and sounds like no theres no compression, so I immediately think timing belt snapped (only 30K miles on it since last change). I walk home about a mile to get my Expedition and pull it home with chains. Im wondering how im going to...

Considering buying a Spyder and was wondering about the reliability of the top, i see a lot of ads with torn or not working tops. Is it common for it to fail? Is it the mechanism or the motor itself or both? How about leaks? Should i stay away and just get the hardtop models?

I already know theres air, ive been trying to bleed it and am not getting anywhere, the fluid in the reservoir just goes up and down as i depress and release the pedal. Even with the bleeder screw open.

Is it absolutely necessary to bench bleed the clutch master cylinder? I just installed a good used master cylinder and im not getting anywhere with bleeding it, the fluid in the reservoir comes back up when the pedal is pressed. Not sure if i have air in the system or a bad master cyl.Ive bled...

This is the part I dont agree with, I know ive read it this way many times before but from what I remember in science class, it is hot air that expands, and cold air contracts (remember putting a plastic bottle in the refrigerator and it shrinks after about an hour causing it to have vacuum due...

Actually, 1g's are only better because of the 6 bolt block