Hey, its DrewJ. this was just brought to my attention as we were just discussing this on Ecmlink forums.When I get some free time, I can remote in to your laptop and check the tune myself. Since these injectors are 2nd hand, we don't know for sure how the original owner treated them, or if...
Which PTE turbo?: T4 6466 DBB
Balance shafts?:No
Ported OFH?: Yes
Where are you sourcing oil from?: OFH
Size of feed line and restrictor?: -4AN feed line w/ PTE restrictor it came with
Has the turbo blown?: NO
How many miles did it or is it lasting: 2k miles, never seen under 40psi making...
I'm just going by what this dyno does against another dynojet that has seen the same cars. Calculations say 905 on another shops dynojet. I don't really care what it reads, I reference everything to a mustang dyno anyways. But thanks for the compliments. I don't speculate, I race and get...
I will not be changing out this turbo for a very long time. I will run 8's next season on the 6466, just gotta change up a few things on the car.STM's RS made 860 on 6766 at like...50psi. The 6466 has 6266 spool, and will make more power then 6766 until the 6466 is maxed out. I still got...
Unless its a PPG dogbox, all "built" transmissions are stock transmissions. Nobody can make the gears stronger. Its a stock rebuild by Raif @ RRT. Also, my car isn't that heavy. Maybe 2650 witout me in it. That really helps.
I only used the dyno at STM. My buddy at Mtuned convinced me to to put an Evo 8 ecu and helped me out with the tuning. The tune isn't conservative. My small runner manifold and unported head keeps me from making 800 at this boost level.
I just wanted to post my dyno graph on STM's mustang dyno.quick mod list:
2.0 aluminum rod, wiseco 1400HD 9.0:1
6466 open T4, .96 housing
unported head, 1mm+ valves, ST duals, FP5R cams
Magnus V3, stock TB
Dragnfly T4 manifold, 1.25" runners
Race Components fuel system, 2200cc injectors...
You are correct.It's a friendly battle which has been very fun. Will comes back from Afghanistan tomorrow and then it's nonstop work in the garage until we get to the track to try again. :thumbup:
I've raced in DSE the past 3 years. I'm OK with the exhaust rule. I say BRING IT. It will make the competition a little more fun. It will also bring in all the guys who should be in DSE, but were forced to race Quick 16. Maybe a turbo size limit needs to compliment the possible change of...
Nice work on troubleshooting this issue.I suppose the next step is to replace the ECU. There is nothing on our engines that will tell the ecu to retard timing, other then the ECU itself. Good luck, and keep us posted.
Ecmlink assumes you are at 5* mechanical base timing.During the areas of knock, according to your wideband and assuming that the log reflects what is on the gauge, doesn't seem too lean to me. You are barely at any type of real load at 3400rpm, however I can tell you that are most likely...
Something is definintely wrong. You have your knock sensor disabled until 3400rpm which is right where you start to read knock on the datalog. So its probably detonating or reading false knock right from the get go. I dont see an issue with the amount of timing being ran during spool up...
I used to have almost exactly your same setup, but with eagle H beam rods, and I had that engine for 20k miles and trapped 133+ consistently on a 30r @ 33psi.A customer of mine, has scat/mahle 6 bolt with a 6262 and has been running big boost for years. Never been to the track, but I think...
*quick update*We've been very busy, but we're still running the stock 7 bolt. We're fixing to put it into the 9's this summer.Will is currently deployed to Afghanistan, but he'll be back soon...then its GO time. :thumb:
Its easy to do. Jack the car up, remove the wheel, drain the fluid, remove the case, notice how your 5th gear is probably trying to push itself thru the end case because its loose, replace the nut or at least torque it back to spec for now, and reinstall. 2-3 hours if you work slow...
Im assuming you're referring to the head. There are 2 sizes. 8x1.25 and 10x1.25. Which one needs repair?If its the 8x1.25, I've repaired them to a 8x1.25 using the proper heli-coil kit.Same goes for 10x1.25.Basically, when you heli-coil it, you're drilling it out large enough to...
Yup, thats pretty much it. You will need to buy some adapters to run the -3an SS lines. I forget what the thread pitch of the master cylinder and prop valve is. The CNC brake is 1/8" NPT. I used one straight and one swivel'd 90* 1/8" NPT to -3AN adaptor.
I actually kind of forgot how I did it in my car, but I'll take the best pics I can and post them up in a few days. Once you see how I did it, you'll realize how easy it is.
I know this car. A local dropped it off to me last year to get tuned but it had some issues that needed to be addressed first so I wasn't able to tune it. Looks like you got it all fixed up!
Actually, from what I see in the logs...you are adding tons of fuel thru the MAF calibration and then pulling fuel with the fuel sliders because of it. In the end, your wideband's AFR's are all that really matter, but your MAF readings are skewed and everything else in the tune will not line...
I looked at log 3. 1.1* of timing retard isnt crazy. Maybe its time for a colder spark plug or maybe tighten up the gap. I see that you're activating the knock sensor >3000rpm. Perhaps there is an issue with your knock sensor or maybe your plugs/wires.Try a BPR7ES with a tighter gap...
In the 10.33 run, Will's car had the basic weight savings...no rear interior, no a/c, carbon hood and hatch with the stock glass. With the addition of the cage, its not much lighter than stock. Since then, its about 75lbs lighter now so hopefully that helps alot!We have not weighed it...
at 4800-5000 RPM you are targeting 5-6* of timing at full boost. Any reason for that? As soon as you shift, you jump right into these very low areas of timing, while running pretty rich. Those transitions need to be smooth. Try adding some timing in those areas.On regular gas, I like to...