Someone was talking about the lower window strips that flake and peel from the 1Gs....and they're discontinued....:cool: someone ;) has a set never installed still in the packaging!...they bought them years ago when they discontinued and got the last set in the country :D hmmm...that someone...

Thanks!!!! worked like a charm.......for anyone doing this I recommend using a peice of metal and hammer to punch in the dowels....just be careful not to miss as you could damage/tear the filter and the whole thing would be for nothing.

Okay, so i'm in the process of putting my 1G (w5m33) trans back together and I ordered the 2G Internal screen filter which I have already recieved. So my question is.....how excatly does it go installed to the case? I see the "dowel" spots on the case and the screen fits over them, but how is it...

sorry for the late response, I used your info to double check my service manual. Thanks again

ok cool, I have a pdf 91 FSM it doesn't have the chapters set up like that. But anyway if the w5m33 and f5m33 share the same shims then i'm golden! Thanks!!! :thumb:

Hey!! Alright straight to the point..... is the F5M33(FWD) spacer for input shaft endplay the same as W5M33(AWD)? I'm rebuilding my transmission and I have the FSM, now i'm all done just looking to shim, and when I went to the FSM for input spacer thickness it doesn't list any shims/spacers for...

I know this is an old post and the OP has already figured out the problem i'm sure, this is info for anyone who has a similar problem. *If it is the input shaft seal leaking (which in the above picture it is), you would need to take the trans case completely apart and replace the seal from...

Alright......I've looked everywhere and I mean everywhere for M10 1.25 75mm bolts...I've been to lowes,home depot,autozone,pep boys,checkers,napa,even independent nut/bolt shops, I cant find any 10.9grade bolts anywhere, I picked up 8.8 bolts at lowes but i don't feel confident enough to have...

thanks for the pics, ya it looks just like the 1st one, i'll just end up pulling the compressor off and measuring this next week when I install it. Thanks again

ya excatly, basically it's "0 casted (then a circular punch) and stamped in is 520, then 0 casted" alright cool, I haven't seen it done before thats why I was asking about what it could be, thanks

ya i know the part numbers for the big and evo, but the small p/n is "01520" mine is "05200" i'm pretty sure it's a small 16G too but I was just wonderin if anyone could confirm from the p/n oh well, i'll just measure Inducer and Exducer, to make 100% sure what it really is. Thanks anyway

okay....i know..i know.....yet another 16G post. I've been searching for hours on here as well as all over the net. I just need someone to confirm this turbo part number, the turbo 49178-05200, I've read various posts were they say this is a "16G" then I read other posts were they say this is...

Reviving/hijacking :cool: Anyone else using these pistons? ITM, good results? anyone recommend coating the pistons with anything, i'm lookin at putting these pistons in on a motor

probably not in the right forum but... Would it be bad to block of my EGR valve using a block off plate but leave the vac lines connected? thanks

have you tried a new thermostat cap ("radiator cap") you outta check that out its not very expensive. The rubber that seals the cap down cracks and dries out which causes a leak in pressure in the cooling system, then when you rev the engine it creates enough pressure to circulate the coolent...

Sounds like a center diff possibably rear diff, I would say your bro probably launched the hell outta it. If you do the work yourself it won't cost too much, not cheap tho. If you have someone else do it, it'll probably cost a pretty penny. If you do have someone do the work you outta see about...

what excatly is it doing? all the time (at all speeds) taking off from a stop throughtout driving range? Sounds like a rear diff problem, did you ask your brother what happend when he took it to work? theres a lot of things it could be tho, have you looked under the car to make sure there's no...

what happened when the car turned off and wouldn't start? are you getting fuel to the injectors? perhaps a fuel pump? sounds like you checked quite a bit, check the power transistor (ignitor) right next to timming belt on the intake manifold. Getting spark to the plugs? is the car close to stock...

my '90 has a 91 Trans in it now... Shift cables,shift assembly (shifter), and trans cable bracket needs to be for 91. Shifts like a champ, I've done the swap from both ways in the past and ya the 90 trans into a 91 is easier and shorter throw, but it's not very difficult to swap a new shift...

again.......... Anyone go to the pavillions?

are you talking about the MAP sensor? if you are what I did on my old 1Gina2G swap was to hook up a vac. line from the tip of the sensor (zip tied to ensure it wouldn't fall off the tip) then (the other side of the vac line) to one of the nipples on the Throttle body... no more CEL

Anyone going to the pavilions tomorrow evening?

put a thermostat in it and it shoud fix your problems...usually with a thermostat out tho the car wouldn't warm up. I would replace the thermostat (making sure its facing the correct way) Are you sure the fan is coming on? Is there enough antifreeze in the system no leaks?

:thumb: to Steve if you want it fixed...he does great work and he'll even socket it when you don't want it socketed lol :p j/king but really Steve is the man at ECU repair drop him a private message

the problem is you'll most likely take a loss selling it with how its acting...but it does really sound like crank walk...do the test and go from there...the only way to fix is to swap a 6-bolt engine in it...I made a mistake about 8 years ago when my 2G motor blew I rebuilt it and about 4months...

does the clutch pull itself to the floor all the time? can you pump the clutch? try the left hand circle turns in a parking lot, it'll give a better judgment on crankwalk.

do you hear a ticking when the clutch is pressed down? Well since you've ruled out the master and slave cylinder. There is really nothing else it could be unless its the clutch/pressure plate its self is screwed up..how does the clutch engage?

crankwalk....been there before :notgood: lol well you can try a simple test to see if it really is the dreaded crankwalk. take your car to an empty parking lot, turn the wheel pretty much all the way to the left and start driving in left hand circles,(not fast but a moderate speed, put the car...

thats a pretty clean 2G but like stated above its way over priced, be careful with crankwalk..read up on it here in the forums and be sure to test for crankwalk...in a big parking lot, do circles going left not fast but a moderate speed put the car in netural still turning left in circles, pump...

SORRY!! I apologize, I forget how this forum has changed so much over the years, hopefully I don't get detention for the post :shhh: lmao so onward with the OP sorry again

Yes, without the temp sensor in it will be hard to start, there is two sensors on the thermostat housing, one is for the temp gauge inside the car (gauge cluster) then the other temp sensor goes to the ECU. The car wont know what temp the car is and can't give correct fuel. So with it unplugged...

posted last night maybe it got deleted?? So how long have you been going to uti? is this your first dsm?

confirmed, def. a rod knock

An IC pipe blowing off would make the car run like complete crap but also it wouldn't just make one cylider low on compression if it even effects compression, which I believe it doesn't.

unfortunally there is no "cheap" fix" if you know what you're doing you can always just replaced the rings in that cylinder yourself, but it would be wise to do more things well you're in there. Compression doesn't always mean bad piston ring tho, I would check timing marks make sure thats good...

read through it completly for the 2nd time....I have 91+ shift cables, shifter, and bracket...the car shifts into every gear...it's just super notchy the shifter cables are cocked so theres resistance when putting them on the shifter arms on the trans and everytime I try and twist the cable it...

i've seen that thread but no one gives answers...everyone just seems to say different things.

1990 TSi AWD.... I swapped a '91 transmission in it, I went to the salvage yard and picked up a shifter assembly out of a 91+ non-turbo, I also picked up shift cables out of a '91+ non-turbo, I'm having big problems with the shift cables lining up on the trans. I can't twist the cable to get it...

to everyone talking about the oversized headbolt holes needing to be done to a 2G head...... like 6years ago I did the 1G in a 2G swap in my '96 GST I wen't to town on the bottom end but ran outta money for the top lol so anyway I used my 2G (96) head (which I rebuilt and put new valves in) on...

I did some figuring (had to make some changes to things) got it done....so if anyone else needs help with the Suzuka brake line kit....pm me i can give some how-to :thumb:

okay well i bought some ss brake lines off e-bay (ya i know some people will say bad move) but anyway the damage is done...the kit looks really nice the lines are coated with clear teflon, the kit is made by suzuka i believe thats the spelling. Now to the question::: obviously 1G line kits are 8...

awesome, thanks for an answer, i know how to do an EGR block off, done it to several dsms in the past but never left the vac lines leading to it, i removed all vac lines and blocked of tb nipples in the past. 2nd question i'm going on a long trip here in the next few weeks about 800miles of...

hmmmm...the EGR valve doesn't have a harness?its not electrical, it only has 2 vac lines coming out of it right? i'm just asking...using a block off plate (gasket) but leaving the 2 vac. lines connected to the egr valve...will it cause any ill effects since the vac lines will still be connected...

what do you mean how? just by not changing anything but inserting a block off plate? all i'm asking is..... with the EGR blocked off using a block off plate...will it cause any harm or ill effect if vac. lines stay connected?

probably not in the right forum but... Would it be bad to block of my EGR valve using a block off plate but leave the vac lines connected? thanks

searched all around but couldn't find any answers just one really old post that no one posted the answer, just got back from Mitsu. with my "non-cruise cable" that they ordered for me but it seems to be a cruise cable, the part number is MB539374 the cable doesn't have the bracket that bots to...

i'm not sure if this topic belongs in this forum but, are all 1G strut tower braces the same? like N/T - FWD - AWD? thanks

awesome thanks, another question....are rear brake rotors all the same as far as 90-99, also awd = fwd?

when ordering ss brake lines for my 90 awd that was swapped to the dual calipers, what year would I order? i know its some 92s ,all 93-94 awds, i guess what i'm asking is does it make a difference in the years of brakelines?, oh and my duals are not the banjo bolt style, they're the screw in...

well actually earlier today i got a chance to start checking all my wiring, i found the problem, the a/c fan harness connector from the car as well as the connector to the fan itself was burnt up in one of the pins, i disconnected it and hooked up the battery, and all is good!!:thumb: i'm...