I came accost a set of HKS adjustable shocks and struts for a 1g awd, they have eibach springs on them, and are in good shape, low millage, Lots of dirt from sitting, Now before people call BS i have pictures and part numbers to confirm, and they say HKS right on themso if your interested, i...

while i havnt been on here in pretty much forever ill chime in..90 TSI 90 GST 95 GST 95 GSX 97 GST 91 GST 90 GSX 92 TSI and currently a 90gsxnot bad for 5 years.. i keep finding them cheap and just cant turn the darlins away..

its not crank walk that dissappeared its that everyone has since swapped 6 bolta at the sign of a leaking gasket or tick in the engine.. its a cycle a couple months you wont be able to stop hearing about it

you cold get one of those sweet grounding kits on e-bay.. but basically clean all your ground's and grounding points your car will be much happier

while on the subject lets cover proper clutch break in?

a lot of people do recomend haveing the head or blocked cleaned before useing a mls hyou can also use a cometic.. me personally ive used both i preffer the cometic i never use copper spray and ive never had a head gasket leak.. on both freshly machined and defiently warn in motors, anyway i...

i usually ubolt the top ball joint and remove the fork and sway bar link and it pops out

ya ive one a lot of the.. what happened was the previous dude put a 1g cas on the 7bolt motor trying to be kewl apparently.. so he also managed to swap the injector plugs and fireing order..so i used a NOID light and figured out what injector plug was fireing then then matched it up with what...

ka-t my ass i put a 100 shot on mine. mahahahahha

jesse now we can be s13 buddy's lol i love the rwd burnie fun..

The info..95 gsx90 galant vr4 6boltso everthing is swapped ive done about 6 of these swaps but never had this issue..the mechanical timeing is dead on not even half a tooth off.. the plugs are fireing all of them.. and the fuel injectors are also fireing..i used a 2341...

or due to high milage.. and worn out parts probally.. low compression number all that good stuff will contribute to a lil heat.. 1 2400cmf fan should fix most issue's i use 2 12' 1300 cfm's on the front of my radiator.. and never had an issue.. i guess if people wanna get anal.. you can also...

thats soo odd.. every car ive put a fmic on i have never had a cooling issue... and i usually dont see anything over 205ish total cruise or idle... no watter wetter just 50/50 anti freeze and water.. to the origional poster of this thread my bet is going twords a head gasket issue.. i think...

why use the 1g unit when you can just as easily use the 2g.. and as far as a 6bolt not haveing the proper mounts thats not the case.. a 1g has one mount on the tranny and 3 monts on the engine.. a 2g has 3 on the tranny and one on the engine..

ya i hope your useing a long rod for leverage.. you need to get it on there with an extention and just the handle form your jack for leverage.. the more the better.. make sure your going the right way too...

ya it definetly sounds like a lifter issue.. did you clean them out or replace them when you did your build up? you should start by pulling the valve cover and putting the cam seals back in because its apparent you forgot them.. while doing that check all the lifters remove them clean them get...

its easy to be bad when your kickin it in front of a keyboard..

Looks like a dsm.. get ready for something to break..

jesus dsmer's just added anal retentive to the list that alread included cheap... not lookin good..

ya its like one of those little robots wiht a do coat on it.. or something wack

it should be a huge ordeal.. are you planning on keeping it nt or converting it to a turbo? thats the largest issue.. if not then everything should bolt up and your set..theres a NT forum on there this may be better suited too also REMOVE THOSE BALANCE SHAFT'S!! do it now !

what can happen is your o ring is too large diam and the bov cannot seat all the way down allowing the spring clip to sit in the grove on the flange.. i know it sounds complicated but it isnt soo bad when your lookin at it..

Im self employed, i started my own inestment business and i basicaly just generate money through diffrent investment oppertunitie's,i got tired of working my ass off and someone makeing the money..

They are not beaded? you really need to bead the ends basiclly find a freind w. a welder or take them to the welders place and have them weld a small bead on the pipe ends

insted of useing worm gear clamps use some t-bolt clamps they hold much better you can find them a lot of plces i beleive napa supplies them too

start out doing a compression test.. stop this relay mess.. if the car turns over like it has very little resistance then chance's are you may have skipped your t-belt.. have you ever replaced it or have you had it done? what you need to do is pull your crank pullie off remove the 4 bolts and...

well you dont have ANY of your info filled out but.. other than those two bolt's ive had an issue with my 95gsx wiht a 6bolt.. the tensioner pullie wqas rubbing aginst the pullie tracket arm thing and it wasnt spinning which casued a VERY simular t-belt to yours.. it all worked fine until i...

brother listin to US!!!! you do not need to repalce your enigne you can fix it all for under 500.00 total..

usually its the heater core have you checked yoru oil? you can remove the rad cap and unplug the coil pack and turn the engine over.. if you see any bubbles in the coolant while you or your assistante is cranking then its probally your head gasket..

im my experience both starters are the same ive used both on both cars

WHAT HAVE YOU REPLACED SO WE CAN START ELIMINATEING THINGS!!! usually its the ecu or transistor when its an issue like that..

thats a freakin RIP OFF!!!! what makes you think that you unseated rings? i mean i guess tahts possaible but VERY unlikely, you can get new valve's for 100.00 and reseat them.. some arp head studs and a MLS head gasket for 200.00 and your car is fixed.. if you were local ide do it for 500.00...

ya you got some bad info somewhere.. basically what rex said.. you are just helping your fuel supply to the injectors by adding a larger pump and AFPR whcih is a good start.. your on the stock turbo.. really the best your going to get outta that turbo wiht your injectors and no fuel injectors to...

well what have you replaced to try to fix this issue.. it could be soemthign as simple as a short or your PT (power transistor) not plugged all the way in.. you need to check for shorts throw some parts at it and judo kick it in the tail pipe..

screw that! thers more venders plus dsmtalk and e-bay and craigs list... its a better unit.. thers a reason its out of stock..

really one little secret ive learned is if you use a snap ring plier and put it in the two holes on the tensioner you can get a perfect tight rotate on it.. and make it all tensioned nicely.. also make sure that everything lined up well really it shouldnt wobble in there.. i mean i usually find...

ya its pointless like i said.. usually you get it all together and it looks beautiful and then you put it on and usually just the streching from putting it on causes the fiberglass resin to weaken.. you can get a special epioxy for bumper but thats a whole diffrent story..

or get the complete bolt on unit for 155 another 20 for the gauge.. freakin a... why blow all this money when you can save some..

your t-belt skipped.. welecome to the life of a dsmer..

its not a v belt its a flat belt but ya it drives the water pump.. get crackin.. replace those belts

ya if its a single little wire then it goes to the starter silinoid there is a small brass tab on there that it slide's onto

have you replaced the fluids and such.. on the 2g there is a huge counter weight on the shift linkage in the engine bay.. a lot of times that is rubbing or hitting something and causeing it not to fully engauge the gears... i would say check that first and formst.. other than that i dont know...

quite often after you replace one part of the clutch system the master or slave they system is out of wack because of a new higher pressure part in the system.. thats why they really recomend if you replace one you should replace the other.. have you tried adjusting the clutch pedel? what other...

apparently you have a short.. you need to check any wireing they messed with chance's are they didnt wire the back up light's or brake lights correctly.. you checked both in car and underhood fuse's? also you checked the large under hood fuse's, really none of those systems should me messing w/...

usually it wont bend valves until about 2 teeth off.. get a OEM belt.. how are you setting the timeing? How do the pullie's look? did you remove the balance shafts? pull it apart recheck the t-belt reset it make sure to fallow the vfaq and its all nice and tight..

i preffer the bolt on unit that bolts directally to the fuel rail.. its about the same price if i remember and you dont have to do any of that other crap.. my .02this is the unit.. http://www.importevolution.com/product_info.php?cPath=24_45&products_id=1434

its got to be the fiav.. has the little wax pellet that melts bla bla bla.. most people slam me for this.. and say its just putting a bandaid on a gapeing wound but.. i just like to block off the fiav and isc completley.. and use the biss as a manual idle screw adjustment..

one thing i learned the hardest way NEVER break in a new engine with a new turbo.. you will toast your new turbo.. pte is nice and rebuilt mine fo free for me.. but still DONT DO IT.. read lots on engine break in t25 for the first 500 miles and slowly turn up the boost try not to knock it too...

wiht dsmlink you can pick up time good time ona bone stock dsm.. its a wounderful program.. worth ever freakin lil penny

you can get a new one for like 80.00-100.00 it probally wouldnt be worth your time to fix it and its a PITA to fix..