Just to update the fix to the situation. I totally forgot about crushing the 1g bov. After doing that can you say whoa? Boost for days!

I'm running a Turboxs high performance manual boost controller to control my Fp3052. The most boost that I can get it to is 22 psi. Is it because my 2.0 motor won't generate enough exhaust to spin it or is my external opening too much, I've already added a spring to the wastegate.

Man reading these posts made my day. I haven't cried laughing like in a long time. Keep the comments coming especially those saying it looks like ass because it doesROFLROFLROFL

Just make sure when you do 'break' you're with someone you wouldn't mind having an 'egg' with because that will be the point you're most likely to mess up and not cover up, just a few wordz of wizdom ;)

I installed the MAFT blow thru but I don't know where the small hose from the boost control solenoid to the snorkel goes now or the larger hose from the snorkel to that part back by the fire wall. where do these go now.

I'm currently making this same transitional upgrade and can't wait. The cost is not minimal but I'm certain well worth it. Stay tuned for updates in this forum when I get it back.

Definitely a tuning program to control those injectors and preferably an afpr for the pump. MAFT or Dsmlink or SAFC ETC.

Definitely hand torque those bolts, I broke one off in the head and it took 3 tedious weeks to get that damn thing out, lesson well learned. And Hondabond gasket sealer is great for sealing those spots on the gasket. Who ever said Honda and Mitsu couldn't get along:D .

Did it just start happening? Did your mas get any moisture in it which would mess up the sensor and read improperly?

What do you mean you have no mods? If you have a 16g turbo then that's called a mod. A boost guage which reads 20 psi is called a mod, you know, anything that YOU added to the car.

The Evo III is not an easy turbo to get you to low 12's much less high 11's. It takes great tuning, race gas and excellent driving. I've been trying for 2 years to break into the 12's but of course sporadically. A bigger turbo will get you there easier in my opinion.

Even after that you'll still get a random misfire code that dsmlink can cure.

Of course Mitsu engineers and all car engineers are smarter than us so that's why "all" factory cars have that insulation, it serves a purpose. I also did the hood vent mod as well as shielding my filter and intake piping with aluminuminsulation from HDepot. It works marvelous for keeping heat...

Can you hear the air leaking as you are pressurizing the system? If you can but cannot tell from where grab you a mechanics stethescope. They are usually used for hearing ticking noise but I removed the mechanism in the middle of it (some ball thing) and added another peice of hose to extend it...

This may not be impotant to alot of people but I just wanted to express myself. Recently my car came into contact with a large bump in the road, (apparantly I missed the 'BUMP AHEAD' sign and didn't slow down), and my idle goes to hell, surging, high idle and what not. Got it home and found my...

Ditto what everyone else has said especially about research before the puchase of parts. But unlike an air filter, down pipe, hard piping, intercooler, parts that don't affect engine control, fuel upgrades will be more involved and that's where tuning the car starts to happen and you'll need to...

Can you explain why not?

Quest. 1: Just like all the other EvoIII owners with creep issues had to do, go ahead and port it out and be done with it, it actually works I know. You won't know when your wastegate opens unless you have an O2 dump where you'll hear it loud and clear but other than that since you have creep...

No possible way! I'm not hating I'm just saying, there's no way unless you coast 50% of the time go pedal:notgood: .e. Alot of it depends on your driving style. I went from 15mpg on 1 tank to 20mpg the very next with no changes except forcing myself to lighten up on the gas. It was by no means...

Correct and I only had an issue with mines when I routed the filter in stock sm location and it rained.

Correct and I only had an issue with mines when I routed the filter in stock sm location and it rained.

That's right, no water or nitrous before maft :nono: .

Not true it fits right in.

Good job and I know first hand it works but for me living down here in 'Katriniana' where it's a hurricane one hour and bright and sunny the next I never know when it may rain plus I like to get my boost on in the rain and get sideways:D .

Home Depot of course :D in the insulation section. I didn't get the thick roll but the thin roll. It blocks out heat very well. When I'm working in attics during the summer and the inside of the roof is lined with that then the attic is alot cooler.

Correctomundo

I've tried 3 different setups and I like my 3rd one the best. The first was just a heat blockoff with fresh air ducting. The second was the filter in the fender which didn't go well for me in the rain either, pia. The third I went back with bigger ducting and blocked off more heat and wrapped...

It'll be just before the engine goes KABOOM! LOLLOL Just kidding. When you're unable to lean it out or increase timing anymore. Of course you'll be able to get the most out of it with race fuel. Happy tuning.

Reply to Steve ( I don't know how to put your quote in my reply) I probably did measure it wrong because I did measure across the 2 terminals and I don't know how a bad injector could cause electrical issues but I say any thing is possible even when it's not logical. But I used a mechanics...

I'll give that a try too, only thing it's so intermittent it's hard to catch it while I'm near the house:barf:

While the car was misfiring I pulled the connector on the injector that wasn't firing and measured it against the injectors that were firing. It was getting a little voltage just not nearly as much as the other injectors. It's probably the injector going bad. I'll have to swap it around and see...

Every now and then one of my injectors loses voltage and throws a CE light and what not for a misfire. I was finally able to verify which injector and that it wasn't getting voltage. I can shut off the engine and restart and the voltage would come back. Any suggestions on how to remedy this...

I USED to have the same issue, I've got Fluidyne, stock fans on high all the time, silicon hoses, fmic. I did a trick from a post that keeps my temps 196-200 @ 95 degrees ambient. I got an oem thermostat, not autozone and drilled 2 3/8" or some small size bit can't remember on the outer edge of...

I just performed this mod again for the second time this weekend after getting fed up with the idle. It was for the second time because the first time I used rtv to plug hole #3 and it worked great until I had a nitrous backfire which melted the rtv and my surge started again. So this time I put...

If you're not overheating then don't trip. I have a front mount with stock fans and it's all good for me.

It's to keep my idle under 1000k rpm's after it warms up. I used silicone before and it worked great until a nitrous backfire apparently blew it out so I want to JB weld it this time. Thanks guys.

I have to redo my FIAV throttle body block off but forgot where to jb weld the holes . Here's a picture if someone can help me.

If this is the case then should I stop driving, get ready to cry and do a rebuild or what? Just had this engine put in in May, used and untouched. Basically how serious and what should I look out for?

There's a strange hollow sounding knock that I hear from the engine bay intermittently at idle after I blip the throttle and as soon as idle comes down I hear it, like someone taps a hollow part on the engine. Car drives great but don't know what this could be. If anyone has heard of this please...

My vacuum at idle is only around -12 Hg but I hear others are at -22Hg. I have FP2's and 6-bolt. What is normal and what can be causing this, leak maybe?

This is the one I use with a Jegs liquid-filled gauge on top and 255 Walbro unwired.http://www.importevolution.com/product_info.php?cPath=24_45&products_id=1433&osCsid=4fa391151e77d9deb4ff41dc70b14f59Snaps right into fuel rail. I chose not to skimp when it came to fuel parts so it costs...

$3500, TSi good condition all around, leather sunroof the works, a/c compressor shot. 130,000 hwy miles.

I did the 'Grey Forrest' hood mod on mines and you can feel the heat rising out. I guess you're looking more for something that will draw air in though. I'm not into spending if I don't have to.

DsmLink is the greatest thing since sliced bread. It is simple to use once you understand all that it can do. It comes with a couple of manuals and a great forum to help out with any issues. I wished I would have gotten first before I began upgrading so it would be easier for me to see how each...

Yes definitely port that O2 and wastegate area and have extra transportation to run back and forth to the store to buy tools that will make life easier especially ratchet wrenches if you don't have them already.

Sorry but I have to repost my numbers. I was trying to remember them but I was off. Here they are again: LF RF LR RR camber: -1.6 -2.2 -2.9 -3.1 toe: 0.01 .02...

Here is my setup: 2G TSi, Tokico illumina spring/shock set @ 1.75" drop, Alignment FL -1.7 FR -1.9 Camber RL -2.0 RR -2.2 Toe is in spec So should I go with the regular or extreme uprights for the front and etreme kit for the back? It'll be a daily driver, no...

No one in the whole world?

Who's tried both and which is better all around for a 2g?