Every time I buy from rock auto this happens...for example I redid the whole front end on my 2g the next week on here they post there discount code....that's life

https://www.jackstransmissions.com/my-cart/store-home/dsm-front-diff One supporting vendor came to mind I'm sure any of our vendors who deal with a trans could help.

WD-40 isn't actually a true lubricant. WD stands for "water displacing" and its main use is as a solvent or rust dissolver. Thelubricant-like properties of WD-40 come not from the substance itself, but from dissolving componentsUnless you buy there silicone based one that's listed as a...

Wd40 is NOT a lubricant, it's a solvent. I cant say whether or not it would hurt the pump but it's most definitely not a lubricant you should use a lubricant of some kind.

I did something similar to your picture as well as remove the plastic vent part that 1990tsiawdtalon mentioned. I will say this my car is mostly stock and I noticed absolutely no improvement. The car was designed to use that airbox so even though its restrictions are there your car was designed...

Hey my harbor freight flux core has done its weight in work on my exhaust. Paid its self off 3 times over now!

I was about to post that in my car the ground in the socket pulled out and I had to do the same glad you fixed it!

So I know this post is older but was just hopeing someone can confirm for sure the rear balljoints are same as the front both sides on my car need ball joints and it's a 96 awd so no control arms for passenger side sadly.

He hasn't been online since 2018 but man am I glad you posted on this, it's one amazing build I never would have found!

So I re did all my front control arms on my 96 awd talon, and I want to do the rear. I'm sure anyone reading this knows they discontinued the passenger side (I believe). I need a replacement for both sides so far my only two options are volk Lca's (I want them but are an expensive option for my...

On my cars I pull the harness at the fuel pump then start it it will run then stumble and die(no pump = no more fuel) so it will use up the rails pressurised fuel and with no more pump no pressure will be built. Alternately you can pull a fuse

I use di electric grease as lube I forgot who on here said they use it (one of our more reputable and active members) but it works great and wont harm the oring and holds up decent to heat.

They use the pressure of the oring and rail (when installed) will hold them in place just press in on both sides should go in fairly easy no real muscle needed.

Before you takeoff the rail off you need to depressurize the rail, unplug the fuel pump or pull fuse for it and crank it will start then die.

Low profiles are crappy ride quality and will handle crappy in rain or snow compared to a standard wall height. Being said if it's a fair weather car and good roads who cares what anyone but you thinks it's your car make it your own!

If you leave your manifold in a extra set of hands is nice I just swaped mine due to shaft play but the worst part was trying to hold it and start the bolts. Also it's not nessecary but pulling the radiator will give alot more room to wiggle it out past the manifold and its a perfect excuse to...

Make sure your maf is plugged in tight mine idles low and crappy without it( dono how it drives tho, I always forget that after boostleak test).

Yeah I just have a hard time ordering one part i use it as a justification that I need more car parts.:thumb:

Mine just fell out on my 96 talon (actually a kid shoved an eraser off a pencil in it) but my solution I unplugged my cluch safety switch till I have enough parts worth ordering lol

If you block it you may have issues idling while cold i had to hold the throttle open to keep running. just buy the bypass plate. There are two plates block off and bypass. The bypass plates have a opening to allow the isc to work on regulating air flow and will only block the part that is with...

My talon is around 300hp and fwd and I tell ya it's not as fun at low speeds as it is above 40mph. I spin the tires way to much(no lsd). Driveing my awd opened my eyes to how big a deal good tires and traction are. You could have 600hp but really 99% of the time you cant put it all down until...

I would also make sure you get all the air out of the system mine would get hot till i did that.

I had no issues with it but as mentioned my sample time is short the car is down atm due to a trans issue it had when I got the car.

I second the diagram if your still around I plan to do this for my 2g.

Check if you still have an egr valve it looks like it's been removed

If your car is a 2g is it maybe a 1g head or a 1g cas in 2g? My 2g has a cas without the pig tail on it to plug the hole I'm guessing or they never finished switching it. This being my first 2g I sat scratching my head on how I just drove for an hour with no cas.

This just made my day better so glad to hear this!

You could always get a second hand one or learn to use a moats ostrich 2.0 and tunerpro RT but there's little to no info spoon fed to you and a steep learning curve.

I was going to say that isn't the headgasket that's the VC gasket. Could also be someone overtighten the VC and cracked it or warped it but if that's your biggest red flag I'd say look at it at least.

I cant speak for ECU flash but in link if useing a maf translator you set it as stock. The translator converts the signal to one the stock ecu can read and is similar to the stock maf.

If you just need it in L for room to the switch that wont hurt anything just dont go try to drive over like 15mph in L.

Check your ecu my caps leaked and mine idled at 2k steady it took out the isc driver path.

You just start in drive... d does not mean 3rd it means your transmission will pick an appropriate gear. L is usually for if your stuck. You do not need to start the car in L then go to 2 then d if that's what you asked. It's a AUTOMATIC transmission if only seen people use L and 2 when raceing...

Look into speed density when you get ecmlink that's what hes referring to.

As for tuneing solution just go ecmlink v3 forget the maft and GM maf combo. You wont regret it best of luck hope to see a build thread pop up!

Make sure your oil sending unit for stock gauge has its wierd not quite blade connector on. On my 96 it keeps sliding off and just saying no psi.

When in doubt bust tuners out lol if it wasnt for this forum I'm sure we'd have significantly less running dsm's.

My motto on my cars in moments like this is "when in doubt get your wallet out". I like knowing for sure they are good. I'm sure someone with more experiance will chime in and give you a better answer.

The time consuming and expensive comment is geared twords OEM as much as possible and to someone who has never done one... I own 3 dsms I have done it multiple times and I'll say the first time took the longest the jist of my comment was that unless your willing to learn and put in time to do...

Any car any brand and modle can be reliable it's just how well it was taken care of. Dont go into it expecting to take it to a shop when things break as they inevitably will, you'll never financially afford the car. Another thing is how recent was its last major service on these cars I recommend...

Check your injector seals mine where leaking really bad but I only found out when I got it to 20psi with a big compressor and it would drop to like 10psi and stop leaking. Just a thought.

Try hooking the tester up after the turbo. My e316g had some shaft play and was allowing pressure into my oil system if you hook up after you can eliminate the turbo as the issue.

You would be amazed at how much it affects performance.

Iv seen the "dual port" Bov before the ones worth alot of money allow you to choose how much dumps to atmosphere and the cheap knock offs just are open on both sides I suggest ditching that bov and get a diferant one.

I cant say for sure but if both are non turbo they look identical to mine that where turbo. I would just buy a black isc from rock auto the pigtail one is a 90 style and the brown is the I In between one. The pigtail one is metal as I said before not plug and play if you had the brown one...

Not plug and play I have the black isc on my 90 you need to swap two wires and it will need the holes ovaled out a bit and harness extended I used the same pigtail just made it longer and swapped the two wires.

See all i find are knock offs I cant find a quality one and iv heard so many complaints on the knock offs I'd rather stay OEM and just shorten it.

I have only heard bad things about short throws I just want it more like my 1g cars it feels so wrong being that long. Does The shifter still sit in a good spot in gear i.e doesn't hit the center console or anything like that? I feel like everytime I go into 1st or 3rd I'm going to punch my...

You could try unplugging your maf and see if it revs normal it will run Rick and throw a cel but it will tell you if the maf isn't working. Do you have a way to log?

Being that it's your first car (awesome choice btw) and only car I'd say do all the maintenance and I mean all. And I'd say keep it as stock as you can these cars get a bad rap for being unreliable but I feel it's the owners fault. Pick two cheap, reliable, fast. You found the best place to...