That’s what I’m thinking is phantom knock. But I did more digging on the car and the plugs I just put in are BLACK and I never noticed but smokes black hard when you rev it so this thing is running rich. I removed the air filter to let more air in and the problem got less aggressive. I can only...

I’m thinking it’s some sort of fuel issue. I’m trying to get a wideband and see what happens because it’s almost the same thing my 240 did that it pulls harder in half throttle than wot because it ran lean. Im also thinking that it’s because the quality of gas I’m using, I had a 1G tsi before on...

I have yet to do one myself because I don’t have the equipment. And as far as I know of it doesn’t. I have yet to look at the ecu either if it could be a aftermarket . Because the previous owner said the car was on 15psi on a MBC but removed it.

I just got my first 2G GSX with minor mods. FMIC, recirculated bov and cat back exhaust. I’m having an issue that affects just driving the car. Basically even just a tiny bit of boost between 3K-4K rpm the car loses all power. I can be building 10psi and just goes nowhere like I’m dragging the...

Finally got around to doing some testing on it since I blew the transmission. The idle will stay at constant 2k at operating temp. But when I was looking around the throttle body, I did notice that one of the studs that has a nut on it holding the throttle together, was a little wet, and had...

I just picked up a 91 Talon TSi from a tow yard. Just needed a key and started right up. Compression is 130 across, I know it's kinda low but I'm just gonna be dailying it. I started the car and it rang out to 3500-4k rpm and held there. It turned out to be a too tight of a throttle cable and I...

Turns out my service manual has some wear and tear on it. I'm actually looking for the plug C56 (Manual made it look like a 4) which is under the passenger kick panel.

So from my last time of a no start. I replaced the starter and I jiggled some wires on the fuse box and it started. I didn't have a problem for a while, I was doing some work on it last night. Then all of a sudden today it's back and won't start. There's nothing from the starter, I've ripped the...

Alright so I took the assembly back out. Getting pretty good at it considering it's like my 7th time. I got to cutting the old welds off until i got like have way and took a air chisel to it and it spun the nut off. I then welded the stud directly to the pivot arm and now I have a full clutch...

I unbolted the rod under the dash and for some reason when I test the welds outside the car by stopping the pivot arm from moving and applying pressure on the pedal it's fine. But once I put it in the car the welds break immediately.

I don't understand either. I mean when I looked at the bushing they looked great, the bushing that holds the adjustment nut is fine, the bushing under the pivot arm I couldn't tell but I don't see how the bushing could make the slop. Maybe in and out play but not like this. I was going to take...

No and I feel like I made a mistake doing that. I'm gonna go to a junk yard and there's a 1.8 there and hopefully the assemblies are the same and I'm gonna start over.

I welded on the side of where the pivot arm is, and the spring and what not. I welded the stud to the nut, then the nut to the washer and to the pivot arm itself.

Well I'm gonna give it one last ditch effort. I'm being super haggard right now, I cut the welds and part of the nut with a sawzall and exposed the rod that spins in the nut. I could see the rod spinning in it. I welded it back together and no more play in it, then I installed it and there's...

So when there's pressure on the arm stopping it from moving (Kinda acting as a master cylinder) the rod still spins under all the welds. I'm gonna get another clutch assembly and try again.

I also don't understand how it ONLY does this while the master cylinder is hooked up. I took it out again to verify the welds for the 900th time and it's all welded how it's supposed to be. But when the slave is not hooked up it's perfect and has no play in it.

So i put the assembly back in. When the pedal is all the way up and i start to push on it there's direct action on the other side where the rod is. Then when I let off it still only comes back part way. I pull it back to where it should and it doesn't move the rod side at all. I'm completely...

I've actually took the master cylinder apart to do some jank stuff lol. But I took the assembly back out way easier with a friend. And found out the welds broke. Probably welded too cold, turned it up and welded it back together. Gonna put it back in and test it today.

I've been fighting this for so long. I got it welded and put back in and there's still play in the pedal. I bled the clutch for like 10 minutes and when you release it still has to be pulled up to be even with the brake pedal.

So assembly is out and it's super obvious it's been out before. The bushing for the clutch master rod it perfect. Someone had it out and welded it but forgot to weld the nut it looks like? Idk the the rod on the clutch pedal side it already welded from the factory. Gonna zap that nut to the rod...

Ok so I had a friend come over and attempt to bleed the clutch again. That didn't work so I crawled under the dash and moving the pedal back up doesn't move the rod. So clutch assembly is coming out. Was really trying to avoid this lol

So I got home and sure enough the pedal can be pulled back to where it's supposed to be. But it's no slop or play in the assembly it feels like it's sucking so there's still air in the system.

Thanks for all the input I'll check everything I didn't today. Also I checked where the fork was sitting it the hole for it and it seemed a little more towards the driver side and does sit on the slave rod.

Alright I'll look into itOkay so the assembly fix is for when the pedal has play in it without actually pushing the clutch? Because there's absolutely no play in my clutch pedal, it's instant pressure from the clutch.

I'm almost to the point to where I can drive my 1G Talon with an XTD stage 4 clutch. After I bled the clutch and know there's no air, the pedal is still barely off the floor. I went to adjust the pedal under the dash and it's already maxed out. What can I do? Is there a different master cylinder...

I feel dumb now, I got a new starter, installed it and everything worked. Then it stopped working, I'm looking at the wiring harness and the only thing that can go wrong is the plug in between the relay and the starter plug. Sure enough, I jiggle the plug and it fires right up. And my...

So after I Fixed the starter. It broke again lmao. It started clicking rapid like low battery again even though there was 13 volts on the jump pack. Then it stopped doing anything again. I grabbed the starter wires and and swapped them to power to motor in the starter and the engine started...

So I fixed the starter problem. Someone ripped apart the starter harness and decided that instead of putting the ground wire on the starter itself, they decided the put it on the bellhousing instead. I ended up taking pictures before I took the engine apart and put it back the way it was. I'm...

I did by pass the relay the correct way. I got power all the way out to the plug for the starter. I then took that starter out, hooked a jump box to it. And then I jumped it and the gear popped out perfectly (I don't know if it's supposed to spin when you do it but it didn't) I then hooked the...

Anyone?

Recap and update. So turns out I've been testing the wrong ignition wire. The wire is supposed to be 110, but really it's on pin 106 for mine and 110 is a ground wire. So at 106 I have power when the key is on the on position, and I have a constant 12v at 103. Is there any other wire that I...

I'll check it today. I'm starting to think something maybe happened to the ignition switch. Because I tried bypassing the starter relay and nothing still happened.

So I found the starter problem. It was a bad relay. Put power and ground and didn't click over. I was looking at the heater relay for some reason. I still need to figure out the no ecu power when turned to start.

I hope that's all it is. Could be I'm just thinking too much because this is my first DSM and I'm used to 240s.

I was attempting to bleed my coolant (again) and my 1G has been running rough and I'm pretty sure it's because i need to adjust timing and bad fuel. But it started running rough and then died. I tried to start but the starter is doing nothing. I tried to jump the starter and it sparked once and...

I'm still having problems with over heating. I know the radiator isn't clogged and I remove the thermostat there's no leaks. But it says it's overheating still after not even 5 minutes of running. Still doesn't look like it's boiling but the car now dies idling and now won't crank.

It should be there now, but I see the oil pressure sensor and the weird connector it has but I don't have the plug on my harness.

I actually see the sensor you're talking about on this picture. I don't have or at least don't see the wire that goes to it so I probably don't have the plug for it either.

It's a 1G, but the thing is it's not over heating. The car was pegged at H and the water and hoses weren't even warm to the touch. It just started climbing fast as soon as it started. And I'll check for the other sensor tomorrow, I know I have one of the sensors which is probably the dummy light...

Got a couple things to ask. One is my oil pressure gauge isn't working. The dummy light works because I used it to prime my engine on oil. I see only one sensor on the oil filter housing that has a connector on it. Next is I'm trying to bleed my coolant, I'm using a no spill funnel and when I'm...

I don't know what i did but i plugged everything back in and it fired right up. It idles at like 2k i think i have some vacuum leaks but anyone know what i should look at for? Throttle cable is fine

I'm trying to start mt 1G TSi for the first time and the fuel pump isn't getting any power. The relay clicks when key is switched but when i remove the relay and test for power there's nothing. Even when i crank the engine there's no power. Fuse is good but I have no idea what else to look for.

Thanks, needed a 2nd opinion.

I just got my 6 bolt crank back from the machine shop and they removed the key way which I didn't take a good look at. I found out it's wrong by looking it up, but he gave me these weird washers or something. I think he gave me the wrong set from another engine an accident but just to make sure...

Alright well I'm probably gonna end up getting one now. And good thing I opened and started to do my balance shaft delete because the hole that the shaft goes it and the hole where the gear goes through is completely mangled. And because of that I'm not gonna trust my oil filter housing and get...

I've seen only 2 people that could have had a failure due to a ground crank. But other than that I see people that who have done it and made good power. And other people that just say "Don't do it" so I'm going to take the chance because I'm not spending $600 on a new crank when I've seen people...

Thanks for the help everyone. I know I'm taking a risk with the crank. Except my crank isn't nitrided, mine is only hardened. And I'm completely rebuilding the engine and boring out the cylinders. So everything is going to get treated. I also had to buy a new head for it because the old one...

I'm rebuilding a 6 bolt at the moment that chucked the oil shaft bearing (some how) and it was just sitting in the oil pan. I'm doing a balance shaft delete and and machining the engine. I know that I really shouldn't be machining the crank but the car is just going to be a stock dd. So, there's...

I don't have leather either, all cloth.

Yeah I don't have a sunroof either sadly but it will help with the sleeper look. And pretty sure it has standard radio. Wouldn't the upgraded pack have speakers in the doors?