Yes the shims/washers solved our problem I can give you the part number we used for the starter if you like

Was the wiring bad on the factory mdp harness?

Has to use shims/washers for the starter to not engage too far. Was causing it to grind every time it started but the shims fixed this. What’s your issue your having?

Hey brother what did you have your anti lag settings at with the 57mm having trouble building boost on the 2step/anti lag

So just to be sure if I have a 99 eclipse spyder 4g64 parts car I can just remove the throttle cable from the fire wall and use it??? Obviously we’re not talking about the cruise control throttle cable I’m talking about the cable coming from the firewall connected to pedal? If so what is the...

☝️Very well said!!! Get ecmlink fix boost leaks make sure you have no exhaust leaks and verify mechanical timing. If idle is still wacky check your TPS and idle control that will throw everything off as well

Did you ever do the test? Is it real knock or???

Leave the sensor in the block and test for 5v at the harness with key turned to on position. If you have the 4.64 or 4.75 or whatever your good then check the sensor for continuity

Getting this code with exactly 3.2 counts any one have a general idea on rewire for sensor straight to ecu? I’ve already replaced sensor might be bad right out of box and I will test Tom. I’ve heard with this code it’s either faulty sensor or wiring. Even when I rev the car it triggers 3.2 of...

So going through the same thing with my knock sensor pigtail did you ever get this resolved and did you go with the rewire or go off the stock setup? I’m getting knock sensor malfunction circuit 1 with exactly 3.2 of knock at low rpm already replaced knock sensor still got the code. Replaced ecu...

Same thing with those 660s I was telling you about

Yeah I’ve had that issue with a set of 660cc.I was swapping them out when I went to speed density but all of a sudden car wouldn’t fire up. Took them out and out and put in a set of 560s and wala fires right up. Do you have a set Laying around while your waiting for those to be flow tested and...

Make sure you have proper signal for 1g CAS from your wiring harness of car to CAS. I’ve had this problem before. This was my issue due to bad signal to CAS from cars engine harness. Are your plugs getting soaked with gas?

I’m having that exact code with exact knock at 3.2* logged with ECMLink. Def can’t be my ecu because this is a spare ecu with ECMLink I had in one of my other dsms thats been down for the time being but never gave that code for knock sensor malfunction circuit 1. I’ve replaced knock sensor and...

Can you tell me what happen with all this madness?I just have to hear the end Rusult.

Couldn’t you just wire it to the stock fuel pressure sensor that use to plug into the solenoid? Or any other sensors you have eliminated like egr and such?

How do you have your cas wired in since your converted?Did you get the plug and play harness from road racing engineer or a cheaply knock off one? “Some” cheap ones found on amazon and eBay have been known to have defects. Only asking because I’ve experienced a no start but only fuel spraying...

Yeah like I said I did end up having a really bad boost leak at the bottom injector seal but turns out I was missing the 1 of the three rubber booties that go along with the seals on the injectors.Had bottom seals and o rings on top but no rubber below the o ring on ither injector. That’ll def...

Ran a boost leak test and bottom injector seals were leaking as was the jpipe. But yes I sent the ecu to be converted to eprom and will have it back soon to run ecmlink. Right now there is a SAFC and I’m installing my innovative wideband before I put it back on the road. Another weird thing is a...

Nicholas Gironda submitted a new DSM Profile :Black BeautyRead more about this vehicle here...

Did you ever get this taken care if because I am having a similar issue only I’m hitting fuel cut almost as soon as I go into boost on my 1997 Eclipse gst with Evo3 big16g running 550cc,255 walbro rewire

Yeah I read that from you the first time and said I will be swapping them back!!! My question is about pulling the ecu fuse when installing the cas if your going to answer real short with exclamations and not even answer the whole question then just don’t answer at all plz

Ok I was wondering why when I selected the type of ecu I was using it only showed the wiring for cas. What about pulling the ECU fuse when installing cas I did not do this... It states to not install 180 degree which I have not done it is installed TDC and it sounded to me like the injectors...

About that stock tune.... I have to change the injector firing order as well with this 98 ecu black box correct? I haven’t road tested yet but car is running and ideling really good but I literally heard the injectors get pissed off a couple times when the car would rev past 2500 it would start...

Ok so sorry for bringing back such a old thread but when it comes to using a 1g cas green top on 2g head with 6bolt swap using 98 ecu black box which is the better route in your opinion on the injector pulse signal swap? Do it at the ecu or the injector wiring harness I have already changed...

Yeah I know ecm link should’ve been the first mod but I’m seeing now that everyone is almost doing the ecuflash to the stock black box and it’s a cheaper solution that is working reallly well

Because I’m not wanting him to deal with the random multiple misfire with stock tune remember I’m running a 1g cas

Now for the fun part!!! Which ecu should I use on this set up? I run Ecm link V3 on my dsm but the customer is not wanting too spend as much money as that will cost him smh. I’ve been reading up on Ecuflash and have found out that the 98–99 black box can be flashed for this set up with the...

The gear sits way lower for proper engagement thanks brother you were right. I just needed to hear it from someone using this exact set up I am and other than a factory flex plate spacer you have on the outside of the kiggly flywheel our set ups are the same so... So I was counting on you to be...

The one you told me lol Automatic 2G but I didn’t have to use any shims

Got her to fire up with the proper voltage and the starter you told me but I did not need the shims for the starter!!!! Thank you brother for all your help

Ok just put a auto unit in the car and motor still won’t turn over all you here is the starter clicking still..??? The manual starter has 1.7 kw vrs this one only having 1.2 kw not sure what the he’ll is going on I can spin the motor over by hand no problem no binding or metal to metal contact...

Ok just put a auto unit in the car and motor still won’t turn over all you here is the starter clicking still..??? The manual starter has 1.7 kw vrs this one only having 1.2 kw not sure what the he’ll is going on I can spin the motor over by hand no problem no binding or metal to metal contact...

Where did you get that part number I’m curious?

Only thing I’m worried about is you have a awd converter where the teeth are different than fwd

Ok brother I’m going to order the one labeled MD 178511 A/T for application interchangeable for FWD or AWD these are the ones that cross reference in the system

Ok so if a FWD 2g guy or anyone who could chim in who has done a 6bolt swap with a 2g automatic transmission with kiggly kit I would greatly appreciate it. Just need to know what starter was used. Please and thank you!!!

You did the swap with the kiggly kit?and used the M/T starter sorry I’m just trying to make sure before hand.

Plus you guys are awd the car is fwd I am currently working on. What do you think about this?

Ok so this isn’t true then you are telling me because it’s all over talking about this...???

Nicholas Gironda submitted a new DSM Profile :NemesisRead more about this vehicle here...

No sir it’s not binding anymore it was the first time by now spins freely with no noise what so ever.I believe I’m using the wrong starter. TC is installed per spec 3 rotation drop no room for finger tips behind and gaped perfect after bolting to flywheel. I’m reading up that I’m suppose to have...

Which starter did you use? I’m getting info saying M/T starter should be used because if length and shim difference.?

So in order to successfully do the 6bolt swap in 2g auto with kiggly kit you need to use a M/T starter??? This is what I am understanding because I am having this issue with the starter binding up... Sorry I know this is old!!!

Having the same issue right now... did you resolve ?

Ok so not trying to sound rude but I have been working and tuning these cars for a long time I’m 31 and have had my original 99 Gst with 6bolt swap since I was 14 and did the swap way before ECM link or any plug and play adapters ever existed. I just haven’t been on here over the years. I own...

I am having a similar issue did you ever figure it all out? It seems like the starter isn’t strong enough to turn he motor over and at one point the motor felt almost as if it was crank locked until I was finally able to spin her freely. I even waited to set timing until motor was installed and...

I am having a similar issue did you ever figure it all out? It seems like the starter isn’t strong enough to turn he motor over and at one point the motor felt almost as if it was crank locked until I was finally able to spin her freely. I even waited to set timing until motor was installed and...