Yes 4g63 sorry didn't catch the 420a

Check the end play on your crank. If the thrust bearings get worn [ crank walk ] your crank can make contact with your crank sensor.

Try unplugging the arc2 and bypass it just to make sure it's not the problem. I'm running a arc2 also. It did fail once but I would get a backfire while trying to start the car. They do fail occasionally. From there it it is a guessing game. I would check the ecu see if you have any bad...

Installation of filter media inside the catch can gives the vapor droplets something to hit and condense causing them to fall out of the air and accumulate at the bottom of the catch can. Adding a vacuum line to your intake will only eliminate any steam or smoke coming from the filter on the...

Do you log knock and are you getting high knock readings going into boost? Knock or phantom knock will cause these same problems. Especially with a 1g cas into a 2g ecu. Just a thought.... In ecmlink you can ignore knock below your set rpm to deal with this issue. I don't know how it is dealt...

Can you post a picture

4 pucks are generally grabbier. How was the condition of your mounts when you had the trans out? The soft rubber will contribute to wheel hop. I'm running a twin disk and my solution was some diy solid mounts after the polyurethane inserts failed.

I would check the timing in the low load cells . I had the same problem and setting them all even at idle helped quite a bit. Any exhaust leak can cause massive fluctuations in your wideband. You can monitor your iac value with link to get an idea of what it is doing.

You also have your coolant temperature locked in the ECU inputs tab. And in Tmngmaxoctane tab I would change 0.3 1000 and 0.3 1250 both to 5 degrees during setup.

A no start with backfire can also be a failing Arc-2 I just had that problem.

You could try setting your first 3 timing cells from left to right in the top row at 5 degrees. Then adjusted your biss screw until your iac reads 30 at idle. If you're ecu is trying to raise idle. It may be increasing timing in that area leaning out your mixture. Just an idea..

IIshot a quick vid of my car for you. Fuel pressure should not rise under vacuum. The terms 1 to 1 or 1 to 4 mean boost pressure the first number and fuel pressure the second number. 1 psi of boost will rise fuel pressure 4 psi 1-4 as an example. Having it teed off the manual boost controller...

Take the boost controller off and blow in one end while adjusting the knob. Fully closed no air should pass through = 8 psi waste gate spring. Fully open easy to blow through = 10 or more psi varies could be 18 psi fully open idk.

You can also try moving the number 3 injector to a different cylinder and see if the misfire folows that. These are free quick ways to rule out some problems. I would then boost leak test the car. Probably one of the best things you can do to rule out problems. Check the tps And compression test...

I have a brand new coil pack and a brand new cam sensor sitting in my tool box that were both bad out of the box. It happens

Did it have this problem before you changed coil, plugs and wires? If you are getting a real misfire it will do that. Throw an old spark plugs and in number 3 cylinder if that doesn't work try an old wire on number 3 cylinder and if that doesn't work try an old coil .

Yes you loosen the knob and boost goes up. Are you trying to lower boost? The only way to accomplish that in to install a lighter spring. Also you should not have tee there for your fuel pressure regulator. Find a nice vacuum source on the intake or throttle body for your fuel pressure regulator.

Also a compression test might save you alot of time, money and aggrivation

Running rough Cold.Fix all vacuum lines and Boost leak test, boost leak test than. 1st thing is check the throttle body. If everything is disconnected it will definitely run rough cold. There are 2 major components right there who's sole purpose is to smother out your idle both cold and warm...

Dodge Rams with the 12 valve Cummins have a decent heat exchanger. http://www.mrcool.us/2c207-lehman-heat-exchanger.html?gclid=CjwKCAjw4PHZBRA-EiwAAas4ZkL4QYEemXjjH66BfLpwdCNVyV_1sU2i78t_zAA_622OYZrnM4Wi1xoC-UkQAvD_BwE

Although they list 20, 21 and 22 spline cases you can just match the appropriate year.

Car-Part.com is a good place to look it up yourself.

I would at least pull the ECU and check for any noticable issues. I can't view your log on my phone right now but fuel and voltage are the other two things that I would check. I had a fuel pump going bad and the car would just randomly die. I could always get it to start again tho. And check and...

Removing my throttle body and a section of my intercooler pipe I am able to sneak the alternator under my intake manifold. I would imagine if you have a stock size battery tray that would have to be removed also.

I would swap the injector with cylinder 2 and see if the code follows. Just be careful not to over tighten the fuel rail bolts as they are only threaded into aluminum. And a light coating of grease on the injector o rings is a good idea also.

Check the oil pan bolts closest to the crank sprocket/timing belt. There should be 2 short bolts. Shorter than the rest of the oil pan bolts. If you put a standard length bolt in thoes 2 holes they can eat up a belt just like that. http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/oil-pan-short-bolts.441874/

A cigarette lighter would work either way.

Center is always positive as stated above. Problem is some cigarette lighters are not compatible with some accessory outlets. Or the cigarette lighter is no longer functional as in creating a short. The cigarett lighter works because it has resistance. The power flows through it at a certain...

My FIC 2150's have been running with E85 for 5 years. I pulled them a few times to clean them up. As the tips get some black residue after a while dependant on your E85 supplier.

You should never increase the size of the fuse. That is dangerous to do without determining the size of the wire and what amperage it is rated for. Without creating a 120 amp load you can not say you have tested a 120 amp fuse in the circuit.

As Shinzon mentioned a boost leak test is a good idea. If the mass air is seeing odd air flow from a leak that could cause a cel for the tps. Also is it a smooth loss of power or an abrupt jerking?

I would check the black ground for voltage as a few members have posted finding voltage there when their ecu's were having problems. Post #22 cel light tps

Test all you can before throwing parts at it unless you just want new parts for piece of mind.2G 4G63T TPS 1 - Green/Yellow (+5v Sensor Power) 2 - Brown/Red (TPS output voltage) should vary from .48 - .52 volts 0% throttle to 5 volts at 100% throttle 3 - Yellow/Red (IPS switch) 4 - Black (Ground)

Give it a shot probablycant hurt anything. But if your ecu is not seeing the tps that's definitely a problem. Sounds like you are going to have to start checking the wiring for continuity. And work your way back to the ecu from the tps. This is where ecmlink makes life a bit easier.

If the tps is bad or out of adjustment that would definitely cause a problem. You press the gas pedal it opens the throttle body to let more air in the engine. If the tps doesn't know your letting air in it cant tell the ecu to put more fuel in and your car goes extremely lean and bogs down.

Sounds like you ran into the replacement hubs with smaller holes . Some aftermarket hub assemblies have smaller shoulders on the wheel studs hence smaller holes for them to seat into. A visit to the local machine shop is the (best) fix for this problem. Bring or measure the holes in an...

One issue to watch out for is if any of the hubs have been replaced they may have smaller holes where the studs seat into them. The rears are easily done by drilling a hole in the backer plate or removing the hub completely. The fronts clear without removing the hub.

https://www.jackstransmissions.com/pages/clutch-drag-kills-synchrosThis is the diagnosis Jacks transmission has listed for clutch drag on their website.

Im already at full boost whenever im spraying. Fuel pressure is boost reference. Boost is a controlled factor. If im running 35 psi of boost adding 100 shot doesn't change my wastegate settings. An auto leaving on much higher boost due to spraying off the line would require a complete dyno...

I tune my nitrous fuel jet to achieve the desired air fuel ratio when spraying. The nitrous is very consistent unless the bottle pressure drops. A secondary map with different timeing values is helpful as that is the only thing I change for the nitrous.

On my car I put it before the N2o. You are running a wet kit as am I. So the kit should introduce the additional fuel not the ecu. My theory was jet it and forget it. Otherwise your ecu would try to compensate for the temp swing.

Phantom knock. Pre 02 exhaust leak Or tps are a few things that can cause lean eratic afrs at idle. At least a few I've delt with. Just a few ideas.

...Smoke screen ...

There is a guy on youtube that did some testing with the cng injectors. Sloppy mechanic turbo colorado. Take it for what its worth.

Like everyone else has mentioned I would check fuel and spark before anything else.

Mine will not run well if at all when my cas is 180 off starting then turning off but yes it should acivate the injectors. It only takes 2 minutes to check the cas sensor for proper alignment.

Its a 1g engine in a 2g chassis so im assuming it has a cam angle sensor also....? That could be 180 degrees off also.