Didn't know this thread existed so here's mine. Early 98 ...

Although I'm not interested in the subject of electric cars ...I will throw out that once upon a time someone built a twin engine 1g awd; by way of stuffing a whole fwd setup in the trunk of a fwd car to make it awd twin engine. Cant remember many details but I'm sure its still on the web...

Flywheel is for a standard, he said he has an auto. So it will be the flexplateThe starter engages the flywheel on a standard trans. The starter engages the flexplate on an auto. The torque converter bolts to the flex plate and rides on the input shaft of the trans. So in your case it will be...

Main bolts will be fine. Rod bolts are fine but wouldn't recommend revving to the moon, but that turbo will be done before that anyways. Stock 7 bolt head bolts have taken more abuse then a t28 can dish out but some people have had problems so it's not a bad idea to upgrade. 6 bolt stock head...

It's a link ... click it

eBay .. I bought one for $100 once back in 2013. Never ran it however a friend gave me a used one last year and looks like it's held up well. So never know, might last , might not

You can cut it off to help flow. Popular thing to do. The point of the pipe is to help the bov air recirculate and not purge backwards through the maf. Some aftermarket intake pipes don't have the bov hose connector in the right spot or angled correctly and that causes some of the bov air to go...

That line looks pretty shot .. just replace it all

They make adapters that bolt to the maf and have a place to clamp the filter to. I would recommend getting an aluminum one if you can find one. I've had the plastic ones crack before.Something like this ...

The big front port (shown) and back port are for water. The top is oil feed. Bottom is oil drain.

Just the tires ...

I've had nothing but bad luck with two different LC2s in two different vehicles. They work with ecmlink just fine though.

Looks like you've got a 6 bolt (1ga) engine mated to a 2g trans. This particular combo requires a special thicker block plate. You can buy premade ones ready to go but appears the PO tried stacking stock ones maybe? Hard to tell at that angle. However as for the starter ... It goes on the back...

For a DAILY .. I'm going to say 17x8 +35 with a 225 or 235. I ran that for years with zero issue. Currently I've got 17x9 +35 with 255s on one car and 17x9 +35 with 275s on another. 255s are on a stock 2gb talon awd and aren't even close to rubbing the fenders but slightly close on the knuckles...

I know this has been debated a lot but 2GB non lsd axles can work with the Evo plate diff. TRE told me that 2ga have the shorter axles and 2gb are long enough. I haven't personally verified differences between 2ga and 2gb but I can tell you that the Evo 3 rear cups I have are the same as the...

When ever you want to .. there's no set point that anyone can tell you. All situation dependant

Just get a sheet of gasket material and a nice sharp exacto knife

Most likely they're just rusted on. They should come off. I have solid "bushings" on all four studs and didn't have any issues. Maybe try some PB Blaster and let it soak for a bit

That's pretty interesting. Usually a 1/4" or so can be normal but that's a lot. Do you have your old crossmember and mount? You could measure from one of the two back mounting holes up to the roll stop bolt hole and check and make sure that it's the same. You can try loosening the other bolts...

I've got a rear evo 3 plate lsd and I know you need matching cups. I found someone selling complete Evo 3 rear axles. He says that all Evo 2 and 3 rear axles are the same. I've personally never had my hands on any Evo axles. So basically I was just looking to see if any Evo 3 rear axle pair...

If you're talking about the spoiler extension .. that's carbonetics. Not sure if it's on their website yet but it's on their Instagram. They'll send you pictures if you ask too.

Those -10 cells are for a pops and bangs or burble tune. Whatever you want to call it. Just makes it pop out the exhaust on deceleration. I bet you also have the disable idle switch well moving box checked. That stuff doesn't hurt anything, strictly for sound, just what some people think is cool.

As long as it's awd, it's the same. There's 2ga vs 2gb differences in wiring for the sending unit. 98/99 have different emissions stuff on the filler neck if you decide to change that.Also 2gb knuckles have slightly more tire clearance

I broke that nipple off and jb welded it back on. Lasted 7 years until I upgraded the bov. Might be able to thread in a brass nipple and seal it in place.The later evos have basically the same design but with the nipple on a different side. I believe the evo x uses a metal bov of the same...

I'm running one and it's been fine but I've noticed it's luck of the draw with parts store stuff. I've used parts house stuff most of my life on everything from daily drivers to race engines and most of the time it's junk but once in a while you get something that lasts. One winter I went...

Then I retract my statement, my bad.However, I'd rather have a 90 cas IF THE WIRES AREN'T BRIDDLE. That plug sticking straight up hasn't been the best for me.

Unless there's a 90 specific green top cas, the green top and black top are wired the same.

I can't give you any definite ways of testing your CAS, but I will say there was a time I washed under my hood and my CAS got wet. It did the same thing. Ran one day but not the next. This was on a 2G with a 1G green top CAS, but it at least on 2Gs, also controls the fuel pump and that's how I...

https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/sleeper-avenger.487978/Check out that thread. It's possible and has been done. But it's not a bolt on project.

Are you actually losing coolant or it's just not returning to the level that you want it to?In my truck I run two inches below the upper tank top, any higher and it blows out the overflow and settles itself back to where it wants to be. Every design is different though. I have no experience...

One end of that shaft rides in the t case, the other rides in the center diff viscous coupler. The only thing that holds that shaft in place is a single ball bearing that rides in a groove between that shaft and the center diff. It's held in place by the viscous coupler itself when you slide it...

I've had that issue on every handle I've ever replaced. The trick is to bend the tang that connects to the rod on the handle itself. You have to be careful as it's easy to break the handle. Look at the metal tang where the rod connects on the handle. It's kind of an L shape. Put some vice grips...

I wouldn't run it. Maybe see if some place like Delta can fix it. Probably a new cam would be the cheapest option though

Never seen those before, interesting watches!

Most gaskets are slightly oversized to begin with. It's fine

🍿🍿🍿 ... Man this is gonna be good

Make sure it's mounted correctly and also make sure it's got a full 12v to it at ALL times. However I will say that I've been through easily 10-12 sensors in the last 4 years or so maybe more between my gsx and my truck both running lc2s. Thank god for warranties haha. Gsx had the sensor about...

I know it's frowned upon but just throwing it out there ... I have the rear knuckles, wheel bearings, and backing plates from a 97 gst that I do not need or want ... Everything's in good shape. Pm me if you're interested.

Actually they're the same arm with different bushings. So you could always get some poly bushings or just make a spacer like stated

Most likely a core issue however also make sure the air door is moving all the way to the correct location. Mine heater core box had gotten kicked I'm guessing and it split the box and the piece sticking up stopped the door from moving all the way to the correct position.

As long as it's not synthetic. Only break in it really needs is to seat the rings. Good luck

I second IPT

Assuming 2g ... Evo swapping is your best bet. Look up complete evo motor tranny combos on eBay for a price idea. Then try and track down the awd swap parts as in rear subframe and knuckles and gas tank etc. Plus the appropriate t case and diff to match your gearing. That raises your price alot...

That's so minor. Being aluminum I would heat it before the hammer and wood trick. But that should bend back pretty easy either way

Building a new engine for this this winter and doing a bunch of pump work as well as hopefully some new seat covers. God damn expensive hobbies haha

Sorry for the delay man been out of town. I can't see super good in your picture but yea I would just weld the crack on the outside of the fixture. Basically like they originally welded it but you'd be welding over top of their weld. That shouldn't see that much stress so I'm thinking it might...

That splatter doesn't look factory. Hard to say from the pictures but to me it looks like the stick itself has been rewelded. But for the piece you're talking about, just weld that sucker up. A bead right around the original circle. Or if you can't weld, take it some place. That shouldn't be too...

Aren't they the same plug? I switched from a green to black and I didn't change anything. In fact the green ran better until I got link.I could be wrong on the wiring as it's been a few years but I know I didn't change plugs