Yeah it helped a little bit but when it got warm it idles high

And I don’t think when they did the fuel system they even bothered with tuning it, that’s why it’s rich. I don’t know how to tune and ECMLink won’t connect

I need new plugs anyway, I bought BRP7ES, I’m stock boost. Will they work still?

I was reading through this thread http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/random-power-loss-idle-drop-an-sputtering-help-plz.514656/#post-153668238before I go any further, I know it runs decently rich, I think the previous owner messed up when he was putting the walbro 255, braided lines, and...

I already tried the extra one that came with it, crank no start. And I don’t really have the money to buy another one and hope it works.

P0443 I assume the plugs are fine because it’ll run fine and every once in a while it’ll misfire before getting into boost and when it’s in boost from what I can tell it won’t misfire

The entire program. Hooked it up and hit connect and it never worked

I tried to use ECM link, I had the cable plugged in and it said something about an open port or something and didn’t work

It’s 5 speed, where do I put the feeler gauge? I have read about it but still vague. I’m using ECMLink because i can’t get a scanner that good lmao, and I want to clear me CEL. And where would I put my multi meter prongs?

Ah okay, thank you all for the help I’ll update when I can but one quick question, could I get any generic usb to OBD2 cable? Or do I need a specific one?

I was gonna put this in another post but, I can’t find the plug for the purge valve, it’s not there. There is a connector behind the brake cylinder reservoir that’s connected to a connector with no wires. Is there a way I could use ECM tuning to get rid of the CEL? I’m tired of seeing it

CEL is just from emissions delete. Call me dumb but I have no idea what that 2nd paragraph means It’ll idle fine when warm though

like my old post said to to after determining my ISC was bad to replace it and that would fix my misfire. I replaced it today and the new ISC helped A LOT it doesn’t misfire nearly as much and it’s somewhat driveable lmao but it still does like to misfire here and there but like I said not as...

Here’s a better list to the circumstances and symptoms of it happening if it helps

Pins 3&4 are open. Time for a new one of those. Hopefully that’ll fix it.

Well I found this after I took the plug off. Will post the resistances shortly

ECU is fine regarding its condition. It’ll still do it when warm but not nearly as bad or often. I can kind of free rev, it’ll rev but every couple times it’ll hesitate and misfire then rev.

What is it supposed to be at? And I can’t check it while it’s acting up because it only really does it when I’m driving and I don’t have a camera I can stick in front of it

My CEL is p0443. Evap emissions control purge valve. Previous owner redid the whole fuel system with walbro 255, braided lines to the rail and back with an aero motive FPR. I’m not sure if he messed with the injectors, if you’d like I can go take pics

ECU looks fine.

I have a spare ECU (previous owner left it in the back seat when he sold it to me lol) guess I’ll plug it in and see what happens. What’s the worst that can happen right lolDrove it to work one day and ran fine all day but when I left it started

How would I check that?

I hooked it up to a datalogger-ish program called Giotto and it was reading normal but seemed a few degrees off.P0443. Just emissions stuff

Had 3 brand new/known good ones through it with no effect at all

Mines a 4g63 and it only happens on acceleration

Even the misfires with the violent backfires?

Heres a video link to what my GST has been doing. Itll sputter, backfire and wont idle when cold but when its warm it almost never does it and idles. Once I get in boost it wont misfire at all. I have no idea.. I cleaned my MAP sensor and that helped a little but not much. Skip ahead in the...

Hello, the person who owned my car before me had an atmospheric BOV on otherwise 100% stock setup and it runs like garbage, hates cold starts,only "idles" when warm, have to keep it alive even though it sometimes works, stalls a lot, runs really rich etc.. so im considering buying this blow off...

I figured it out, Need to recirculate my BOV :( or get a MAFT. Just bought this car and didn't know much until I spent the better part of today on this website lol.

What is "SD" the car i just got has atmospheric and ive heard recirc. unless im running SD and I dont know what that is and I also really like the sounds lol

there isnt one, i checked for that

yeah you’re probably tired of seeing me post but I’m still new to this stuff. So recently my car started acting weird. I know it runs super rich and I put a new upstream o2 in it and it helped a bit but below 2500 rpm I’ll have very little acceleration and it’ll backfire and pop until I get into...

Check what he said ^^Also have you checked your catalytic converter? A faulty one can defiantly make that smell especially if you're running rich so check o2 sensors also. My GST is straight piped and runs rich and the exhaust smells almost exactly like gas.

Honestly I have no idea, it’s a running driving project with a fuzzy history, all I know about the fuel system is a walbro 255 pump and braided AN lines to the rail and back. No clue about injectors/ECU though. Honestly about to take it somewhere, I absolutely abhor wiring problems. I don’t have...

Yeah I’ll do that but I also need the AFR to come down a lot. Im not sure the exact ratio but it’s rich as hell. And will that work if the sensor is reading 0 volts? I don’t have a code for it. The only code I have is p0443 the evap emissions control valve so that’s why I wouldn’t pass.

Yeah I need to pass emissions :/ and it’s running stupid rich so I figured that might have something to do with it unless sensor 1 is also bad but there’s no code

That still doesn’t tell me much but do I need a new downstream o2 sensor if it’s plugged in and still reading 0? I followed the wires and they didn’t look damaged

Secondary side of ignition is around 120V primary side is around 14

Hi hello yes so I’m fairly new to this wiring/voltage stuff. Following my idle problems when cold I hooked it up to a scanner that told me MAF, MAP, o2, TPS sensor voltages etc... first 02 sensor is reading almost 20 volts! Explains running really rich while the 2nd one is reading 0 volts...

TuJay submitted a new DSM Profile :Full o’ problemsRead more about this vehicle here...

SD? And I don’t know where it goes. Figured I’d leave it alone so I don’t mess the whole thing up, I don’t know a lot about wiring

Going along with your reply, I was looking over my car just to see what’s what because I was bored. But I almost had to count to 10 because I was so mad after looking closer at the wiring. I absolutely hate wiring so I was pissed when I saw all this. Things unplugged, non factory connections and...

No A/C fan, only 2 wires, a black one and a blue one. Stock alarm is still there.

Yeah I don’t understand why people feel the need to mess with it if it works... pisses me off so much finding stuff like that

So I need a new fan motor?

Excuse my ignorant question but, if it’s a 4 pin connector and there’s only 2 wires coming from the fan motor. Am I missing something?

Could you message me the link? I’m still somewhat new to the forums here even though I’ve been registered for more than a year lmao

Would there be any way I could wire that switch so I don’t have to manually turn it on?

I don’t know, just got the car. Ill buy a plug for it. Where would the plug that it goes into be?