mas is fine, im getting a good aircount on my afc and its sealed goodi dont have any of my stuff, i took off a TON of stuff and sold it all so whats on now is what i got, i hooked up my leak tester but i had such a bad leak in my intake manifold gasket that i couldnt tell if i had leaks...
well the battery was disconnected for about 2 months so id say the ecu is reset loli gotta hook up my leak tester when it gets above like 15 degrees haha, i want to work on it but its so damn cold nowill tell u what, its a pain in the ass messing with it when its this cold, the wire loom...
i took everything off my car and put it back to stock and it wont idle, it now has stock injectors and fpr, mas, turbo, ecu, so it should just start up and idle fineif i start it i can rev it up and hold it at like 3k and it sounds great, if i keep the gas perfectly still it does kinda blip...
Im puttin my car back to stock and I had a AFPR on it so i took off the fpr solenoid. Do i need to put that back in to use the stock FPR. I was told it makes it not see vacuum or something. The car wont idle, but it will rev up and i can hold it just fine just wont idle anything below 1500 so i...
Thats what i was thinkin too, its a liquid filled and i would think its more accurate. I can see a few psi difference from the fuel filter to the fpr but 8 psi i thought was alot, and it makes me doubt which one is right.
I got a B&M fuel pressure gauge on my fuel filter that reads 38psi, and i have a CHM fuel pressure gauge on my AFPR and it reads 30psi. I guess i should go with the new one on the AFPR but thats such a difference im amazed.
My car has always sounded cammed because it would run like crap at idle due to my walbro 255. The AFPR is set at 38psi and my idle is like stock again. Which is nice because the car isnt stuttering and puttering at idle, but it was kinda cool cuz it sounded cammed lol.So anyone who has a...
ive been slowly eliminating things under the hood and its amazing the difference it makes, all the ac lines and the ac fuse box, the fpr solenoid and cruise control system alone are huge improvements, it feels like i have so much room everywhere nowim gonna relocate my battery to the trunk next
well i took that whole thing out today thats on the firewall in the corner, it had 3 connectors on it, one for cruise control, one for fpr solenoid and the other was just a harness that had wires runing to the other 2car idles fine and fuel pressure is same, no cel's
yes the loud engine is 100% balance shafts out of phase, take it back and make them redo it and fix your timing beltpower issue wouldnt have anything to do with bshafts out of phase but it could be off some teeth
So does the aeromotive fpr raise the fuel pressure the same as the stock would, 1psi of fuel pressure for every psi of boost?anyone running without the fpr solenoid, id like to get rid of that whole thing there because i ditched cruise control and thats all the bracket is, cruise control...
I set my AFPR to 40psi base when car was idling, i guess base is supposed to be like 36 but i decided to set it a little higher to be on the safe side.I hooked up the vacuum line that comes from the fuel pressure solenoid, is that how its supposed to be, the line goes from the intake...
stfu...haha man u get too bent out of shape about stupid shit, too many people on here get their pantys in a bunch over stupid shit and try to be too "mature"just tell the guy hes a douche for calling it a 50 trim when we all know thats not what the original poster meant, but it doesnt...
just remember, whats big today is small tomorrow, so dont hesistate to get something thats going to give you much pleasure down the road with lots of capabilityyou get used to the power pretty quick and u want more, i would definately recommend the evo3 over the big if its about the same...
In the vfaq the tbelt is supposed to be 3.8-4.5mm clearance. Closest i can get it is about 4.8 or 4.9. Anyone whos changed alot of tbelts have any input, i think it will be fine but ive had a tbelt strip teeth because it was tensioned too tight so im very reluctant.
Very interesting, you guys can poke fun of it all you like but numbers are numbers. Sounds like they got a nice setup and easy to install, not all people are blessed with a small 4cyl sitting under the hood with lots of room for a turbo setup.15 years ago if you said you were going to make...
it could be quite a few teeth off and not bend valves, half a tooth to 1 tooth off isnt going to effect anything but maybe a couple hp depending which way its off
i got it apart tonight and found out my plug is still there, one of my bolts on the timing belt tensioner came loose and was partly out, and all the oil was coming out of there and it was dripping right on the tbelt and dispersed the oil very nicely around the whole areagot a new tbelt...
I agree with defiant, the engine runs at 200+ degrees, and as soon as you hit 195 its open the whole time so unless its dropping down to the point where your thermostat is closing a cooler thermostat wont have any effect on cooling. An engine running 200 degrees cant tell the difference between...
yeah the tensioner is placed for clockwise rotation, with counterclockwise rotation the tensioner isnt doing its job, so it could easily skip teeth, but usually its not a problem. I think you would need to rotate it many many times before it was an issue.
its amazing how close the look, i saw in my one friends avenger it looks EXACTLY like a 2g dsm, every button and knob, i was ashamed to have an avenger have the same interior as me =P
Was putting my AFPR in tonight and noticed bunch of oil on bottom frame so i was looking at it, and could only think one thing. The plug that plugs the hole for the balance shaft came out i think, oil all over the tbelt, im down a quart and noticed lifters were tickin last few days probalby due...
had same problem on one of my friends cars, we could not get enough leverage to get it to pop out, i cut the metal ring around the the boot right at the tranny, and it practically fell off then, thats what holds it so tight
I had metal masters on my 2g awd, very good pads, they will fade if your really on them from like 130 but they definately rocked. I liked them for the fact that they grip with very very little pressure, i could brake very hard and quickly without hardly pushing the pedal, i hate my 1g brakes but...
id put money on the previous owner using standard tranny fluid, it makes it very hard to put into gear until its heated up and will grind like a sonuva bi*** if your syncros are half gone. go to gm dealer and buy some gm synromesh, 3 quarts is about 30 bux, it takes 2.5 and replace your tranny...
My car runs perfectly fine without the fan coming on at all so it should be ok without a fan, i ran without a fan for months. Open your radiator cap and turn the engine on and wait and see if it starts circulating when it gets hot. If you were really pegged that hot the engine would be making...
I definately think you need to be in the -30 to -35 at least. Im runnin -20 and i have 660's and also a 2g mas which with a stock 1g maf thats another 20% from my settings which would make it -40. Now granted the ecu is going to adjust for idle and part throttle quite a bit so it could deal with...
could is be a lifter? they can get quite loud sometimes and that can come and go, thats about the only thing it could be if its not constantafter finishing my motor my lifters tapped horribly loud for 40 miles, and yesterday they started making alot of noise for about 45 mins then went away.
Im going to be ordering a tranny from shep in a few months, after all the threads ive read over comparing everything, he seems to be THE MAN to go to, and very customer friendly which means a lot to me.
Well most likely if it doesnt have a bead, then its probably the boost blowing it off not engine movement. You just need to bead it and clamp it good, dont worry about engine mounts, i seriously doubt thats your problem, without a bead pipes blow off so easily.
Can you describe the engine noise, because from what you said you didnt change any of your tbelt alignments cuz u used zip ties. So bshafts should be in phase, and you can only really hear them out of phase at 4k up. So is it alot of noise coming from your head, or just the engine in general...
I believe timing should be 5 BTDC, and the manual says 8. I mean 10 is a tad high but i dont think that should cause any problems. Max timing during wot should be maybe 25, most cars are like 20.
what rpm did it break or skip at, becuase if it was idle or low rpm like 1500 then your pistons will be fine. If it was higher rpm then it could have snapped the valves right off. If your rocker arms were broke, i would say most likely it was higher rpm and its most likely your pistons are gonna...
I have to agree as well, 90% of all threads are dominated by people saying "if you ask these questions you shouldnt do it" or "take it to a professional"Very close minded overall i would say, but to this question, i think if your just going to polish it up and gasket match the head then go...
ok about what i said earlier with the 1.8 tranny on a turbo motor, i was wrong, it all fit but it turns out that you have to have a 2.0 turbo tranny if you use a turbo flywheel and clutch. The bellhousings on the 1.8 and 2.0 non turbo are smaller and they will rub the flywheel and it cant...
Well another reason im excited is cuz my datalogger isnt workin, and i cant tune at all, it will be nice to just have it work how its supposed to and leave it alone and spend time on other things. I was only trapping 103-104 at 18-19psi on pump gas with my 20g, thats how bad tuning was. Although...