So from the sounds of it I should keep the sealed power bearings ? That's what I been using for a good while now. The machine shop said I should use a different compound bearing its my daily car (that I never even drive due to having a bike) but I'm pushing 18 psi of boost currently. So should I...

So I'm working on a lower rebuild rods pump etc I got a brand new oil pump already. I wanna run something other then standard bearings. Not exactly over size or under size. More along the lines of a different compound bearing. I was told kings is a good brand to go with ? And to add to this post...

So like do yall think I should maybe do a front lower bumper exit?

Lol sleeper to the next level for real lol... I liked thw whole obnoxious stand out but it's getting old not being able to like have the window down lol

So I've been running a hood dump directly off the turbo for a good while now but now thinking about changing it up. Getting too hot to not be able to have both windows down. Having a hood dump the pass window gotta stay up sadly unless u like the smell of exhaust.. I was also thinking about just...

I see... so I guess it's worth the time and pita that I have to endure to do it..

So I've been really debating on changing the valves back to the bc ones but the more I look at the head the more I dont want to... is it worth upgrading valves or keep stock ? What's the pros of changing them out and is there a easier way to take them out other then a hammer and extention lol....

What about a simple like 30 shot on 21 lbs of boost? My max boost I seen with this set up was 28 lbs but I'm pretty sure that was a over boost ...

I'm currently working on doing a full engine rebuild but I happen to come across a nitrous express system for a really good deal. Full system plus 2 full tanks ONLY 350$. Brand new in box. Well I never stepped into this world so it's all new to me... motor is boosted with built internals. Head >...

Just ordered both them new...

I think its honestly a spark issue... imma order a new crank and coil pack. Wires and plugs are new. So imma go with that route..

I've made a post about this before and it seemed to have went away but now randomly has arose again...Here is what it is doing, the car starts up just fine, good afr etc. Ill drive maybe 2 miles down the road casually driving not getting on it at all, and randomly the car will just loose...

My fuel pump is hard wired to a switch that I can hear still running constantly even when car is off.. I was running e85 for the longest and had to run some serious cleaner through my system to clear it up it almost became the death of my pump.. I would put money on it that mt fuel filter may be...

Understood ill try that today

Correct i guess I worded that wrong lol ..BTW mind you the motor never even got hot when this all happens..

I have a single coil pack with 4 posts but it seems to be acting fine. I have another one here ill swap it with. Assuming that's what your meaning. The spark plugs I pulled out seemed frosty kinda besides the 4th cylinder had black build up on it that was pretty thick.The werid thing is the...

Honestly nothing been changed. I was at the daytona beach truck meet probally playing a little too much beating on it pretty hard tbh. Broke 2 alt belts some how lol.. but besides that nothing been changed. Before the meet it shut down 2 times before the meet but fired right back up didn't act...

So this is for sure more of a electronic issue not mechanical?

I figured it wasn't a internal damage considering I can go out there right now after sitting for a day and she fires right up. I was just trying to figure this out because this forum im in said oh your motor is done for. Or rebuild it. Or something along them lines.. but the matter that it...

See all the responses so far are not as bad as the groups made this seem. So 90 across the comp test on a cold start isn't bad as they said ?

So what are the steps to be taken ? People are telling me to rebuild the motor but I honestly don't think I need to..

Recently the eclipse been acting alot it would run just fine then randomly shut off and not start back up I let it sit and bam it fired up just fine. After running for a few it turns back off like u turbt they key back. Does this completely randomly. No warning nothing just shuts off. I figured...

I understand where your coming from and pretty sure u answered it but imma make sure. So the intake of the turbo is straight off it to a L then out of the headlight not necessarily 90° off the turbo. Still applys to what you said ? If so then its going open no more headlight induction. Sadly...

I'm not 100% sure if I made a post about this yet but... so I have a 70mm turbo not sure rhe inches but I have a 70mm turbo with a coupler that is for 3.5 inner color pipe. Now that not matching the inlet of the turbo will that effect the spool ? I dont hear the bov when the pipe is on but when...

understood ill look into that

GM flow sensor ? And so that means I should just run my boost gauge by its self to the intake ? What about that single vacc port right on the throttle body ? I currently have that just capped off nothing goes to it .

So after spending a couple 100$ on misc parts I ran into the same issue I been having. Finnaly decided to take the aem off and bam car is acting normal reving up and all not sputtering like it was with the aem... my first aem the map sensor inside of it went out. Now this one the aem fic 8 been...

Ok changes so much stuff around and yeah still got boost at idle as the gauge says :/.. imma order a new gauge. Where is a good place to tap into ? Mine is from the back of the intake then T off to the bov and then into the boost gauge. Is that a good place or ?

Ill look into all the gaskets next but I did recently adjust the bov imma adjust that back

So I should disconnect a vacc line then check the gauge?

So recently my car been building less and less boost and now im building about 7 psi of boost not even reving or even idling high ... just at a normal stand still im building boost. I have my wg set at 28 lbs which i was running fine but now. Its like im running a boosted car with out the ic...

I did...

So in reply to all of that, I can simply run a power wire to that wire its self ? And no run off the radio at all ?

I see.... ill just have to play around with it

The green white wire behind my radio hasn't been hooked up for the longest only cuz i ran a led strip for my cluster after the dimmer went out. My interior is gutted the only factory light is my cluster. Which I would like to get back... i wanna get rid of the led strip. There is a green white...

I run cheap ebay turbos for the most part only about 160$ each so it wouldn't be much of a issue on damaging aspect I just wanna have that more aggressive sound when I left off the pedal

Its ok lol but the 420a sounds mean and I'm cammed so its even more aggressive

If parked out side yes that could be a problem. But Its covered where I park

I was thinking about putting another one thats smaller to help feed it but then I gotta custom fab a mani and all that I might just deal with this lag just get a giant "boost loading" sticker lol

I use to be able to "hold" the rpms at 7k and never red line but this new tune done changed everything... and no one seems to be able to tune aem any more

Understandable, like my motor is fully built point blank, cams. Rods. Pistons, valves, I've been building this car for 5 years now dropping every mod I can into it. I've always had 2.5inch ic pipe. But before I was on a 60mm. (Pobally lower then 60mm due to going off compressor stamp) I use to...

I stated on a 70mm im pushing 28 psi just a fyi.. Not 12

I know for a fact its .050 over I just had to get the block done with in the year its Wisco 8.8.1 over sized pistons. But for the most part I do have the list of everything

I mean for the most part over all question has been answered. Idk just feel like I'm lagging hard asf but I guess upping my boost to 28 from 12 lbs of boost is my issue. I gotta say if my BOV isn't loud I know damn sure you hear me spooling loud i just don't have that tuuutuuuu sound lol and I...

The exducer is 3.5 and my exhast hood dump is exactly the same soze at 3.5 so pretty much I'm just going thought major boost lag

But I love being obnoxious

I just know its stamped .70 AIR and its a gt35r... assuming that means 70mm?..And I'm 2.0 with .050 over sized pistons 8.8.1 comp, and it seems to wanna build boost about 5000 rpms range at 28 psi peaking around thatAnd thats what I thought so its time for new lines and gauges it seemsss

Its fully built nothing is stock really lol... Its a 70mm turbo with anout 2 ft of exhaust 3.5inch the whole way

Another thing I may add i noticed at idle im not at 0 psi im at about 5psi of boost at idle but after letting off the throttle it goes back to 0 then rises to 5 psi roughly

And I'm on 28 lbs of boost now