I think what I like the most and what I hate the most are one of the same. I get a lot of attention with my DSM, and it brings people back thru memory lane when they see it. Unfortunately it also brings way too much unwanted attention (if you know what I mean). The constant everywhere I go is...

I used to daily mine, but not anymore. After the collision, just noticing how hard it was to source body panel and the fact that there are no OEM bumpers or fenders available so you're stuck with aftermarket. I decided not to risk it and just enjoy it on the weekends.

Is it like a F&F replica version or an updated representation of the F&F car if it was built in this era? I mean, if it were going to be a replica it would probably be FWD and 420A to be accurate, so what is the target for this one?

^^^^This... Although they look extremely cool. If you don't have a solid motor or at least a very stiff motor mount setup they will induce stresses on the fixed component mounting locations. They have movement both axial (in and out) and angular/vertical but not enough to compensate OEM or...

I'd be interested in one for a 2g gsx.

If it points downward and connects directly to the lower rad hose, it's a 1G water pipe and thermostat housing. If it points upward and mates with a rubber oring to the thermostat housing it's a 2g configuration.

I hear you. Just getting parts for my transmission rebuild was a feat. Parts are becoming scarce by the minute on these platforms but bang for the buck DSM's are just so good.

I have my road race car... I know exactly what it is to have $30K in a $3k econo car... I call it my polished turd. ;)

For the price I paid for my setup it has literally screwed me over on modding my car. Spending just $380 on a mod I would have expected to climb in the $1k+, now any mod I do to the car I find too darn expensive. :p

The 3G Master Cyl I would consider it a must in the CTS-V upgrade but it's just my preference not a need. They work fine with the stock MC and BB although just changing the MC does a world of difference in pedal feel. Also the Evo and CTS pads are the same, you can buy them wherever you want...

If there is coolant in the piping there is a bigger issue than a turbo. The coolant passages of the turbo don't meet the oiling system unless the chra is broken inside and if that were true then you'd have coolant in your crankcase. Coolant in the intercooler is an extremely rare symptom. Are...

There's really nothing to do to keep it from progressing. It will continue to deteriorate because the piston seals are a wear item. Metal to Metal sealing will always have a finite lifespan. Cooler oil will be thicker hence it will seep less but it's really hard to use a car and not get oil to...

Oil will continue to come out regardless if you are on or off boost. It will take longer to reach the intake tract due to reduced flow but it will continue to smoke. Turbines don't stop rotating off boost, they just rotate slower which reduces oil passage through the seal.

Yup, if you cannot see any oil on that hose it means there is no significant blow by through the engine. That means the oil you found is bad seals from the turbo. T25's are notorious for blowing seals, time for a turbo rebuild or swap (I'd pick the latter).

If you have a breather on the valve cover and the hoses are not connected to the intake tract but you had oil in the intake piping then your turbo seals are definitely in need of replacement.If you do have hoses from the valve cover to the intake then it depends on where you see the oil...

I'm not familiar with the AEM V1 system but unless the AEM has a timing lock (like ECMLink), you cannot check timing on a 2gb CAS system.

A turbo with bad seals is easy to pinpoint by looking at the CHRA for oil deposits coming out of the back of the compressor wheel. If you changed the engine, you must have seen them. If you saw oil, then the turbo seals are done for unless you are getting massive amounts of blow-by from your head.

Think about it... It's called and air-to-air intercooler for a reason....Air goes through the fins and cools the air going through the core... If they're both the same air temperature wise, what use would it be? Heat transfers from one medium with higher temp to the other with lower temp...

Then you'll need only a press to install the bearings (unless the diffs come with them) c-clip removal tool and the rosin core soldering to check your shim specs. Fifth gear slides right out after removing the shifter fork wrist pin out. The viscous coupler is the only thing that's really a PITA...

I got it from Tim's (Twicks69) links: https://docs.google.com/fileview?id=0B_asEOxBcezZNGM5OGY4MjUtZjQ2OC00MGQxLTk3YTAtMWIwZTJlNzYyNDg0&hl=en&authkey=COjGqJAGIt depends on how deep you want to go but other than normal tools I needed: 1. 36mm socket for the input and intermediate shaft nuts...

I just finished rebuilding my transmission. There are a couple of disassembly and shimming how to videos in YouTube. Search for "W5M33 transmission rebuild". The only pointers I can give are: 1. Be very careful to not loose the viscous coupler detent ball. 2. If you need to remove bearings be...

Those are incredible figures for a stock block setup. Great job and hope you enjoy it (break free if that even exists in a DSM) for a long time.

It can be done in basically any engine, you just need the appropriate flange and an ignition system that work on vacuum with a trigger wheel system (or a distributor if you can adapt one).

Will do! Thanks. Yeah, only need three to finish the rebuild. I live in an island and now sending my transmission to get rebuilt has become ridiculously expensive in taxes and shipping costs.Thanks! Yeah, I sourced a few bits here and there in Japan but that's about it. Not the ones I need...

Guys, I need some help here. I'm in the process of rebuilding my transmission and just noticed my preloads are off. Does anybody know where you can source and buy the shims, specifically for the input, intermediate and the center diff preloads. I don't need the list of PN's. I already have those...

Extremely confusing when the thread starts with "420a"

He does mention brand. "Mitsubishi". It's because it's an OEM Mitsubishi belt.

Old faithful:

When you installed the clutch, were you sure to do the clutch setup properly? Are you sure you have some slack on it when it's engaged?The marks are from slipping causing heat buildup. They could be from either riding the clutch too much or slipping in any gear. Two years is enough for a...

Story is a little iffy and incomplete but I guess he jumped timing due to oil getting into the timing belt and now the engine is broken and instead of fixing the head, he's just going to swap a complete engine instead?

If the wrist pin area is tight and the crank side is tighter than usual then it will cause the rotating assembly (when there's no compression) to have some resistance even with proper assy lube.

That makes sense since EvoScan has incorporated all of Ceddy's settings in the past. I personally use v2.7 and only use v2.9 for Evo X's. I find v2.7 to be less buggy during datalogging runs for those cars in particular (DSMs and Evo 8/9s).

I mean no disrespect by the comment. What I meant was that it's maybe time to get a local professional to help you with setting your system for EvoScan and ECUFlash. Sometimes it's difficult to explain things without providing visual aid and/or watching what is happening and more so with things...

A wise man is one that know how to do things on his own... A wiser man is the one that knows when he needs help. Just saying...

Any chance you also remote-tune ECUFlash (Ceddy Mods in particular)? Will be upgrading turbo, injectors, and going SD next month and could use somebody with DSM tuning experience.

I've always had more luck with just a really long pry-bar and my floor jack's handle doing extra leverage than my impact gun. I usually try impact first which also serves to loosen the thread bite a little and then use physics and a little brute force for the rest lol.

Just putting it out there as getting a 9mm spacer is not an easy feat.

This is a great option for those wanting a 16" wheel. It might be good for those that drag race on 16"ers to get that extra stopping power and still use drag slicks.1mm is an extremely small difference in offset. Would it be possible to just shim the side of the pads that's offset using a 1mm...

Why on the program? Pin swap is a physical change on the wiring loom. I'd much rather do it on the harness since we know the Infinity already works on an Evo.

The drain is the huge flat head bolt on the bottom at the end cover (furthest to the wheel). If that wasn't what you took off, then you took the wrong bolt off. There are bolts that hold the linkage, the fork rods and the reverse gear assy so make sure you're removing the correct one.

I might have to take note from this and build my own cooling panel for mine. Great job!

Ha!, should have started by looking at the man's Profile. LOL

Right side of the engine bay is where the transmission lies. Does the sound continue if you press the clutch? Do the test.

Another possibility could have been a blocked lifter passage that wouldn't let the lifter discharge keeping it at the extended state? Have you removed them and tried bleeding them and see if there is any hard particulate inside?

You need to replace with what ceddy provided.

I still don't get it. What exactly is your assumption of how the lifters failed? You say it's the picture of your mind of what happened but didn't really state exactly what it was. They seized, they were pumped themselves full of oil at some point and never discharged, what? If they were too...

The last head I payed to get done (new cams, valve angle job, new guides, seals, shimmed for solid lifters, cleaned and decked) cost me $250... $600 is not a little high, it's ridiculously high.

You live and you learn. We all make those mistakes and learn from them. Sorry to hear you found the culprit. At least the mystery is solved.

That looks like a handful. Good luck with it and hope to see it finished soon.

Sometimes I wonder how are you people running side exhausts and driving around town without a cop pulling you over? I wouldn't be able to drive an inch from my house without a cop fining my behind just because of it, and I live in a place where almost everything goes and "vehicle inspections"...