Yeah I just put a 50 shot on the thing.
3000rpm 4psi pushing slightly through brakes
3300rpm 6psi pushing through the brakes hardI am almost positive this converter is stock. When driving it, I let off the gas and press the gas again and its instantly engaged. There is no window for any slip...
Trying to achieve 12-14psi /3200-3400 rpm no nitrous. Currently only getting 3psi 2800rpm.I’ve tried 10, 17, 22 degrees timing in stall area, 17 seems to be best. I’ve tried advancing cam gear from 0 to 2 and get no different behavior between them. I’ve tried 11.5, 12.5, 13.5 AFR gas ratio and...
That’s correct sir because the line that comes with the pump isn’t R10 just like the SS hose you put in thats wrapped R9. It will fail… it will just take longer because it’s wrapped. Enjoy your car
I’d hope you fixed it 4 months ago… that’s a long time to be stuck in the mud. More updated the thread for other people and for you as well when that fuel line you installed fails you
First of all, use R10 line. If it’s not R10, it will burst every time. Also, when doing long sections of rubber, help support the line by adding a clamp in the middle. Ive done as much as 3 for 100+ psi setups.
This is how I install a Walbro 450/525/535 in a 2g sending unit. Also, a great way to fix a broken/twisted fuel line.Pictures show how I got it versus finished product. I’ve been doing this mod for atleast 10 years, maybe even more. After tuning so many cars and logging fuel pressure, 9 times...
Yeah if you open up that file log, someone moved the sliders +5 among a few other changes that weren’t mine. It blew up? I can’t imagine why haha. You’re not supposed to add that much timing
I responded to him private but figure I would make the information public as well.The kink is an obvious issue but unlikely the reason why its going lean the moment you touch the throttle. There are so many issues with the mod list and the tune that are all contributing to making this car not...
This isn’t my tune. Some of it is but looks like someone wanted to play tuner and screwed it up. What’s the owners name and I’ll tell you the issue the car was having?
Who’s racing this Saturday at spectator drags? Who’s watching? Got my 2g and my friend in his VR-4.2g: stock 7bolt, 16g, m5 all the boost, 560 treadwear tires
VR-4: built motor, twin 6062, e85, 100 treadwearBet on red. Mitsu to the front. Saturday 5pm opening for danger ranger 9000 PPV link...
To update this and my inflated numbers, I swapped out the hks 272 for gsc s2 and retuned it. It made 703whp on a loaded mustang dyno at 42psi on pump e85 (e72). Then I brought it to the track and it traps 150-152mph. Had it setup like this for 2 seasons. Finally cracked the block into the water...
I got this email notification that I did something wrong here and my account has limited access? I login to view and it doesn’t specify what, when, who. Very vague message that I can’t respond to. I haven’t posted here in over a year at least but in the event someone may have used my name (don’t...
Here we go again. You were given the correct answer and you said no because it doesn’t fit your agenda. Making multiple posts isn’t going to get you a different answer. Actually I take that back. My new ad ice is sell everything dsm related and move on. This life isn’t for you
I’m the guy that just sold you the new setup.For what it’s worth, operation of the injector is actually very simple. They all share 12v power through a resistor box. Make sure you still have your resistor box and it’s not bypassed or it will fry the ecu using a low impedance injector such as...
There is a scaling setting in ecmlink that can change this value so more than likely your tps might be set at .63v mechanically, the adjustment tool on ecmlink might not be at 0. Not really an issue
Your SD isnt setup correctly, youre simulating on a wideband that doesnt log correctly for CL or OL so there is not a chance in hell the computer knows what fuel trims are, your VE SD table is setup incorrectly, your injectors are setup incorrectly, you dont list the brand of the injector either...
Start with this, get your wideband matching, dial fuel trims in then work on boost tuning lining up your afr to target. No need for you to touch timing until you have dialed in AFR perfectly up to achieved boost levels.
The e fine restore stuff is a bandaid. If something is out of spec, there is nothing in a bottle that will fix it. If I get time tonight, I’ll post up a better timing table for you to start with to use and there will be no need for you to touch it until it’s resdy to advance timing.
That’s low compression. Add a little oil to the cylinders and see if numbers go up. If they do, you’re past the point of no return. However running that timing will for sure continue to hurt. Generally I’d run 0-2 degrees at peak torque then ramp up to 8 degrees by 7000rpm for 30psi. 4-6 degrees...
Pulling timing where it knocks is not the right way. You need to build your timing so it’s smooth. You jump like 10 degrees from one cell to another. Not to mention when it knocks, you’re adding timing which is wrong. Read into how min and max tables work, build a nice timing table and you’ll be...
Honestly I e never had a reason to on a DSM but I will admit I used iridiums on my talon when on e85 and I did notice better idle. But I change plugs way too much to be spending money on iridiums every time haha.
Build yourself a nice timing/fuel table for starters. Setup injectors correctly, there is no need to simulate the front o2 it does a great job alone unless of course you dont have 1. Uncheck locked baro and iat if youre on MAF. Shoot me a message if you have any questions
You need to fix many things. No more pulls. Your timing table is rough and set to blow. No way that AEM wideband gauge is logging correctly. Set it up Linear or ditch it and get an Innovate MTXL. If you need any help with these things, shoot me a message
Timing table needs some help but isnt too terrible. AEM widebands do not work well with link unless setup Linear which yours is not so not sure I trust this AFR you have. Open loop is setup way to lean for pump gas. Your notes have a very huge gap. Surprised its not breaking up. Install 5122 NGK...
Your tune is very confused. Why do you have GM MAF selected when youre on SD? The SD table needs help. Need to build a nice VE table to start from and go from there. The one you have will never work. Youre breaking up at 10psi. Do a compression test and if good, fresh 5122 NGK plugs .024" gap...
MAF suggests a boost leak, retest. Your injectors arent setup correctly, your timing and fuel tables are stock and untouched. You paid for V3, stop using sliders.
Remote tuning a customers car. In beginning stages of dialing it in and the SD table is looking all kinds of weird but fuel is hitting its targets perfectly and it trims in really nice. Details FP3065, E85, Walbro 450, FIC2150, your basic "built motor" list. Car made 551hp at 25psi but im...
Moving to a better platform. Not interested in DSMs at this power level and will need to make it less of a street car to make it reliable and my focus is street only.
If you get bad gas, you would see knock, tune would suffer immediately, would ping and hesitate etc. if you stay in it, then you deserve to have your motor blown. If your knock sensor dies, that shouldn't matter. If a car is tuned correctly, you don't need a knock sensor. It's just a safety to...
I understand using the head gasket as a fuse but to be honest, if you rely on the head gasket as a fuse if something isn't right or goes wrong, stop tuning or seeks new tuner.
1992 Eagle Talon
PTE6062
Full weight full interior street car
Street tires
Manual trans
Registered, insured, inspected
TRUE STREET TRIM! None of that bogus drag car street car crap. Only ran car down the track 2 days at this power level. Zero seat time, zero adjustments made between pulls...