Thanks for the help and quick responses really appreciate it, I'll have to delete the other thread.

I found it on Amazon through Mitsubishi so hopefully it's a good one. I only paid 120 for it though.

Im rebuilding my small 16g and i bought a hotside from mitsubishi that says its good for all 16g turbos but it does not have an alignment dowel. My question is does it have to be aligned perfectly or can it be close?

Well the old one has wear marks on it and i returned the kit for a much better one, does anyone know if the td05 alignment dowel is needed? I bought an evo3 hotside and its not drilled for one, but i dont see an issue without it.

Was looking into that, I'll know tomorrow if that's a viable option.

I got my rebuild kit and everything checks out except the oil deflector must have gotten tweaked in shipping. Has anyone ever had this happen or have ways to straighten them back out? Going to exchange it for a new one unless someone has a fix. Last I checked they need to be perfectly flat or...

I think ill be happy with the kelford 264's and should have no issues making power with them, how are yours as far as street manners?

What would Max safe boost be without fuel pump rewire on a stock 2g pump?

Yyes you are correct ill more than likely run a 272 but I was playing around with the idea of kelfords, the adjustable cam gears also add alot of adjustability to whatever size I go with, just being careful and doing research so its one and done with my cams

Kelford 264s aren't really 264s from what I've found, there actually bigger than hks 272 I believe, I wanted to buy a set of Juns but can't find a seller for them, but back to the point I'm looking at 272s for mid and top end I could care less about bottom end.

II'm still debating on which manifold I want to go with looking into Magnus or a jmf

Update still researching my cam choice lookin into kelford 264s also decided I'm going with an external wastegate off the manifold not the turbo so I can have more housing options.

Old thread but incas someone has the same issue try disconnecting the battery and letting the computer reset and relearn

2g with a vis hood stock latch at 130 its been fine so far but switching to pins anyways.

Appologies for bringing up a dead thread..... sorta, does anoyone make a twin scroll housing? trying to decide on housing size to go with support 500-600 ponies.

what is the exact list of fittings you used for supply and return lines, and what size nipple is welded in? and what is that T fitting called?

looking into kelford 280/276 cams from real street performance, they look like they should do good with everything else.

Is that a shallow mount sub or full size?

Is it a code designated to the egr specifically? if not it is more than likely another component in the emissions system.

Does the shaft of the starter have any play? Mine some how wore away the end of the housing to it would not mesh correctly with my flywheel, use a telescoping mirror to check the teeth on your converter to make sure they haven't been ground down to the point of not meshing.

I had an issue similar to this when i bought my car, ended up being that my alternator was bad so i replaced it and haven't had an issue since, also i know if the EGR valve gets gunked up and dirty to the point of not functioning properly can cause idle issues.

Did you fry your ecu?

Anyone tried using a fuse tap into the taillight fuse to wire the gauges lights to turn on with the headlights? Debating that or a toggle switch for gauge illumination

yeah thats what i keep hearing about them, hoping to still make decent power at 30 otherwise ill keep turning it up and play with the tuning, cam choice is turning out to be my most difficult choice out of everything

Damn, I didn't realize these blocks were that strong, 4G63 vs The World!

Definitely looking into Bushur 272s because they are supposed to have a good quality cam and I don't want to spend the money on Juns and they are hard to find

Ill start looking into them and reading up on the can info in that link, the s2 is looking to be not the route for the car anymore with this info

I wanted to sleeve it so I could run possibly a bigger turbo and more boost in the future and to be safe and don't want to even give the block a say in how much boost it gets

im thinking about going to around 8.5:1

Thanks everyone for the help so far its much appreciated, figured since i am new to the forum i wasnt going to get nearly this much help

yeah i dont uderstand why they can only handle "35psi" i might have to try calling them to see if they can clarify on that, im just wondering if there would be an issue going with a cam designed for larger turbos than a hx35 but i cant see why there would be

im not picking my 6 bolt up until the end of this summer and hoping to pick up just a cheap short block to sleeve and build ect. everythings going to be torqued to spec so i hopefully dont trash anything, but as far as the housing a twin scroll would be nice but my housing choice is still up in...

I'm curious as well, when I got my car it had the little mods to max out the stock turbo with a aftermarket bov and the solenoid bipassed with a cat back exhaust, definitely abit quicker then stock but has a boost leak somewhere and a half dead alternator

im thinking about doing that along with a shep trans then i have to shop around for my axles

i thought you needed stainless lines and fittings to run e85 or it will eat through fuel system components?

decided i willbe going with kiggly high pressure beehive springs!

plan on swapping to gsx eventually, im looking into the JM street or race sheet metal manifold with a 1g throttle body swap, cam bolts are just to be safe since im in there, also looking into a twin scroll housing for the hx35 if i can find one, for e85 i just need stainless lines and fittings...

car is a 5 speed was debating on going to a built auto to get good track times but just love driving a manual to much, thank you ill look into kiggly

I am looking for imputs estimates and advice here, not a newbie to cars but a newbie t the forum, building my car into a street race/grudge race/60roll car and im wondering if this motor set up will work for the goals of the car. Will be posting updates as the car progresses.4g63t stock...

Taking off the body kit and going back to stock bumpers skirts and spoiler then building around the stock block until I blow my axles and clutch and installing guages so I don't blow the motor up to soon

If you don't mind me asking how big of a cam are you running and roughly when does it spool? Ps is it a 2.0 or a stroker?

Build Deadline Just Got Set.

Thank god I found this thread I'm second guessing my idea of running gsc s2 cams with an hx40 cars not going to be a daily it's hopefully going to be a weekend grudge racer/60 roll car shooting for 500+(cars a 5 speed so no torque converter issues here)

Is a beautiful car hopefully I can't get mine back to the stock body with the exceptions of the carbon fiber hood and hopefully hatch and fenders(don't wana gut the decently clean interior so this is where I'm at for weight reduction) Keep on wrenching brother!

If your on a tight budget jazz makes some affordable super light weight seats if you don't mind them being a polymer plastic only downside is the padded covers are sold seperately another less budgeted seat option would be kirkeys, hoping to put some in my car this spring after the build.

Hopefully your looking into throwing some more fuel at the car and turning her up a little

Clean up the car and make it run as well as possible and by something with a 4G63T Mitsubishi motor no Chrysler junk.

Has anyone found advantages or disadvantages on removing inner fenders for at least the front half of the car? Should help with cooling brakes and some good airflow through the engine bay.