Black top CAS has a clear signal to the ECU compared to the green top, you can use either one. When setting up the 1g CAS to DSM link you'll want to make sure the CAS is at 5 degree BTDC. I believe you'll be able to change the base timing after initial setup.
If you go with a 1g black top CAS you'll just need to purchase a wiring harness/or rewire the harness to invert the the CAS for the ECU, its much easier to buy the cable because it'll be plug and play.If you have DSM link you'll be able to convert the signal using link, CAS harness adapters...
I had the same issue with mine, ended up being the switch. I would try checking your local junk yard for a switch to swap out, good luck and hope this helps.
I believe they are vehicle specific but I'm sure you can get them off any DSM laying around the junk yard.Also don't forget to check some Hyundai vehicles, some of them might sure the same connector.
You can check the check engine light manually, to do so get in your vehicle and have the key in the ignition. Turn the key to ACC then turn it back to the off position, do this three times in a row but on the third turn leave the key at ACC and watch your CEL. It should be illuminated for a few...
Those vacuum lines connect to the EVAP and EGR solenoid to the throttle body.You can reattach or delete them but if you delete them you'll probably get a CEL, but it can be removed with DSM LINKThere are more detail threads about deleting the system out there.
I'll post my brackets up once I have a chance, I got mine made from a company called Wedge for $200. very high quality and perfect fitment, they can make brackets for any seats that you plan on using.
No way!!! I actually got to take a look at this TSI before it was available for sale, extremely clean engine bay and solid strut towers. honestly I couldn't believe the previous owner didn't come pick it up LOL.I literately thought I was the only 2G DSM around Iowa City area, we should meet up...
The junk yard is a pull your own part and prices are usually cheap, if the parts are still out there I'll send them to you for what the part cost me plus shipping.I'll keep you updated
The junk yard near me has a few 1g with undamaged rear quarter panels/side skirts, I can make a trip there this weekend and see if its still up for grabs. all of them don't have engines/trans though.
I've replaced the ECU with a known good one without any improvement. I'll try the POT mod next, after doing some research the POT mod makes more sense. Trogador let me apologize if I seemed hostile, I was just frustrated with this problem.
Here is a link for the procedure:
http://roadraceengineering.com/1gcasin2g95-96M2.htmI removed my ECU and it looks to be in good condition, I have another non-EPROM ECU that came out of a 96 GST. I'll give that a try tomorrow morning.
I never said the vehicle still has the crank or cam sensor still on the vehicle. It has a 1g 93-94 CAS rewired using both the cam/crank sensor connectors.- Engine timing is at TDC (IT on cover)
- Ignition timing is at 5*I've changed the pins on the ECU and according to RRE (and resources on...
The link only applys to thoughs who have sussefully completed the 1g CAS into a 2g but are getting a misfire engine code even though a misfire isn't happening.I took a look at the previous owners CAS rewire and found that the fuel injector pins have not been switched around. According to the...
The CAS is a black top and installed correctly, I've changed out the CAS with another one but I'm still having the issue. I'm unsure if the CAS rewire was done correctly, I'll look into the wiring though and verify.
Hello,Let me start off by saying I've search the site and found great info that has lead me up to this point. However I'm still having some issues, also I apologize if this is in the wrong section.Vehicle
- 1995 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSXIssue
- The Issue is the engine will back fire/hesitate...