No updates right now. Picked up a second job, part time at UPS, with hopes of getting on full time soon as a feeder driver or package car driver. So I've been working 65-75 hours per week.
It was 90* in Columbus, OH on Saturday, but that didn't stop me from stripping more undercoating/seam sealer off the car. I finished both driver side wheel wells.
Man time flies, Can't believe it has been almost a year since I last updated this. Haven't done much to the car, but plan to today after work. I finally found a good tool to strip off the undercoating easily. http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-pneumatic-rotary-removal-tool.html. I picked up a...
Haven't got much done recently been cold and the car was outside on jackstands. Took advantage of the 60* weather here after work and got the car back on 4 wheels again. First time in 7 months. Didn't get any pics of the car on the ground because it got dark on me. Here is a pic of the rear...
Eibach pro kit is like 1.2" front and rear, H&R is 1.7" front 1.4" rear assuming you have FWD. The outside diameter of the tire is going to be the same, lower profile on the 17" rim vs. the 16" rim. I personally would use the Eibach due to the roads here in Columbus, OH.
Unless you plan on Auto-X or drag racing with tall slicks, I would go with springs. Make sure your struts are in good shape, if not KYB AGX are very economically priced these days.
Drove out to PA and picked up my tubular rear subframe from Josh at True Street Tuning and Fab. I'll be able to bolt the 3KGT rear diff right into the new subframe.
Scraping undercoating has been at a standstill. After sitting in traffic for an hour after work, and less daylight, I haven't been feeling too ambitious after work lately. Tubular rear subframe should be done in the next couple days, so I am behind schedule.
I've been using this tool with the scraper attachment on my 1G to get most of that sealer stuff off, then finish up with the wire wheel.
http://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/oscillating-tools/oscillating-multi-tool-62279.html
Finally hit it hard today got almost 2 wheel wells stripped of undercoating and ready for rust bullet. Here's a pic of the passenger side front. Thankfully my wife was willing to help.
Taking vacation time next week to do the rust bullet on the under body. Trying to get this car back on wheels before it snows, it's blocking my garage!!!!!Here's a picture of the 3KGT rear diff and the front hubs with ARP extended studs, new bearings, and seals.
Sounds like it has a vacuum leak. Spray carb cleaner around where gaskets are and if idle speed changes, you found a leak. Repeat this until all leaks are fixed. If you used a paper intake gasket it is likely there.
Thanks, I had to move the gun really fast, so I figured wire speed. Looks like there was plenty of heat to me because of the discoloration on the larger piece, but I am far from an expert.
Very new to mig welding, so take it easy on me. I think I had the wire speed too high? Please let me know if the welds on the toe eliminators need redone.
Maching up the rear suspension with the 3SX upper arms and Jay Racing active toe eliminator. Still have some cutting and welding to do on the trailing arms and subframe for the 3KGT rear end. My son was giving me a hand.
Have all new urethane suspension bushings, front and rear ball joints, inner and outer tie rods, Tein springs, KYB AGX struts, 3SX adjustable rear upper control arms, Jay racing active toe eliminator kit, and new rear wheel bearings and seals. Still need to get solid rear subframe bushings, but...
Survived the wedding, time to get things started again. Need to finish cleaning up the underbody so I can paint it. My goal is to have it a roller by the time winter arrives.
Looks like your capacitors are leaking. Need to get those fixed ASAP before the electrolytic fluid eats through the board. It may be your issue, but regardless it needs fixed.
Set the multimeter to volts DC. Ground the black test lead on the multimeter. Touch the red test lead to the small wire going to starter solenoid, and have a friend try to start the car. If you don't see battery voltage when trying to start, could be bad ignition switch, clutch switch, or...