Im gonna jump in here and put in my opinion. I recently upped turbo intake.... all the goodies. Turned up the boost and the fuel pressure. Took the car for a ride and it ran like ass cutting out not pulling very hard was just stupid. A/f gauge read same as you are getting. I turned the fuel...

I agree. Are you runing a afpr? I had similar issue at 16psi and found it was to much pressure on injectors. Could be something to check.

redfield102j updated Picked up after 10 years in a garageView updates to this DSM profile...

redfield102j updated Picked up after 10 years in a garageView updates to this DSM profile...

redfield102j updated Picked up after 10 years in a garageView updates to this DSM profile...

Got the manifold and turbo put on car. Runs amazing.. will post good pics tomorrow

redfield102j updated Picked up after 10 years in a garageView updates to this DSM profile...

I would also say pull it. If you have a rod bearing that keeps spinning your gonna wanna check the rod to make sure its not out of spec. I had an issue similar to this in a diff motor not a 4g63 however everyone told me the crank is the problem the rods wont be out of round... needless to say...

Ordered and should be here friday or saterday...lol

If you try to roll the motor over with it in gear does it try to move the car clutch pressed to floor and also with no pedal at all? Does it make any noises at all when in nuetral and running? There is more to "adjusting" a clutch than just bleeding the master cylinder. When you installed new...

the one i am looking at is only welded at head plate and colector it has 2 braces from head plate to turbo plate an waistgate also has bracing. Not sure how good of bracing. However if i decide to order it tomorrow when i have it i will inspect all welds and bracing. Thank you for your replies...

Hope you get it figured out... does the manifold seem strong or "flimsy" wondering about posible cracking.. also did you have to "mod" it at all for fitment? How well does everything line up?

I am on the look for a t3/t4 external waistgate manifold. I dont have alot of money to spend on one. I found the cxracing tubular manifold with t3/t4 flange and 35/38mm external waistgate for around 210 dollars. Just wondering if anyone is using or has used this manifold.. any input on this...

I agree with blackdsmthingy.. if you already have it out and apart i would replace all bottom end bearings. As ive learned the hard way antifreeze eats the bearings. May look ok but sitting in that "milkshake" all that time isnt good and for the cost of new bearings is well worth saving the...

redfield102j submitted a new DSM Profile :Picked up after 10 years in a garageRead more about this vehicle here...

The vibrations lessin when stepping on the pedal. And pretty much dissapear at idle. Its the lighter foot driving that is weird and constant speed cruising on highway at 60mph. It kinda feels like driving a truck with a tire rubing. Its weird.

So i bought and installed a set of prothane inserts for my 91 talon tsi awd 5 speed. My issue is when the car is anywhere over 1200rpm it vibrates the whole car. At idle around 700rpm there seems to be next to no vibration. I am at a lose as to why... has anyone had these issues? Is it normal or...

Make sure to check that nothing fell into starter whole that may be binding up the plywheel/pressure plate or that starter is exactly the same as old starter

Update..... i have been driving the car for a little over 400 miles. No issues or cels.. problem seems to be fixed.. so i went on to a couple small upgrades. I installed a aftermarket boost gage. Ran wiring to install a air/fuel gage and a manual boost controler. Before i got to hook up new...

I tested the isc motor it had one bad terminal. I replaced it with new part. That helped the problem slightly. So i went on to a boost leak test. I found that the throttle shaft seal behind the tps was leaking horribly. Bought a new set of seals and installed them. The car started right up no...

Yes the cas was disconnected. And i also have a needle meter i use for code reading. I only use the digital one when i am checking for specific numbers in testing. Weird thing happend today when i went to work on it. It said there was no code so i started the engine to get cel to come on. Sat...

First check was done at conector exact way haines manual says. The last test was done directly at ecu plug. Both done on the 12v setting on my digital meter. I guess i dont know what the cel was while it was running because it had no codes when i checked it. I will try it again tomorrow and see...

Ok i went out and worked in the car today. I tried to start it just to see and it started right up. The idle surge seems to be gone. Does have a miss when running. After engine warms i get a cel. Shut car off and checked the codes. There were none. So i went to checking the cas voltage at the...

Ok thanks. Now i kook at the pic i see it. Not sure how i missed it..

If i was going to check the signal voltage for the cas at the ecu. Wich pin would i be checking? The diagram i found does not really tell me.

The cas was unpluged when i did the test. I unhooked the battery for a few min and hooked it back up. Tried starting the car again. After a couple tries it started and ran for about 3 to 5 min. It seemed to be running ok a few misses here and there but cleaned up as engine warmed. While running...

So i have been working on the car trying to figure it out. I got good spark to plugs 1 and 4 now with a few random sparks on 2 and 3. Just from rolling the motor over a bunch of times.I should mention while rolling motor over working on spark i got a cel for the cas. So i did the haynes manual...

I completly understand. I dont mind answering any questions that may or may not help me figure this out. I have always wanted one of these cars. I got very lucky and picked this car up for 300 dollars after it sat in a guys garage for over 10 years with the trans out for clutch replacement. It...

LolThats to funny. I almost bought a ecu from a guy that said that exact thing.. i purchaced mine threw napa. It cost me 340 with a significant friend discount. I believe there list price was somewhere around 560. I can take a pic of it for you if you really want.. i have actually replaced...

I am by no means a noob when it comes to cars and motors. I always wanted a talon tsi and finally got one.. it is a pain in my ass but worth it. I am prolly guilty of asking "dumb" questions. However i am new to these cars. I am learning tho. As far as crap parts i dont buy them. Its oem or...

The ecu is brand new.

I am going to have to make an extention wire to run that test as my leads on tester arent very long. I will definitely check to make sure all wires are pushed into connectors and nothing is goofy

Ok i will start checking wires. I can not warm anything up due to engine will not start at all now. Double checked spark again after coil and pt test and still having same spark issue

Ijust did the haines test on power transistor and on coil. Power transistor checked fine. Coil test were body isulation.. good. Primary resistance on 200 setting is 1.1 on both 1&4 and 2&3.. secondary resistance on 200k setting coil 3/4 12.2 coil 1/2 12.2.... in same order on 20m setting...

So i started fighting a idle surge issue and very hard to get to start when cold. Had a cel for temp sensor replaiced with a spare i had. No more cel. Car was still very hard to get running when cold and still had idle surge. I went to a leak test next. Found throttle shaft seals where bad...

Mine is a 91 and base is 5 degrees before tdc. I would think it to be the same but not 100%. You also stated that you could hear air in the back of the intake. The only thing on mine back there that would leak air is the break booster line. Again tho mine is a 91 so may be diffrent. But i would...

I was also having idle surge issues. Had a cel for coolent sensor. I replaced it and problem persisted. Cel still comes on but has no code. I started running the hanes manual test and found the nunber 1 prong on isc was faulty and had no resistance. I also have the tan isc. Ordered a new one...

Not sure if you got the boost leak test figured out. When i do a boost leak test i charge the system and spray all joints and conections or any possible leak area down with soapy water and watch for bubbles. Easiest way i know to find a air leak. Hope this helps

It has bran new ngk blue wires and bran new plugs. Was running good then it spit altornator belt and started to over heat. Parked it put new belt on and was gonna set ignition timing and that is when problem started. I will check all the plugs when i get home.

Timing issue?My car is hard to start when cold. It has a choppy idle going from 1000 rpm to 1400rpm. Ive checked TPS and all other sensors. It has a CEL after running for a couple min. I checked the codes and it says everything is fine no codes.I tried to set ignition timing. With plug on...

Got my computer today. Installed and car runs great gotta do couple lil things but she is running great.. so so so happy. Thank you all for the great help and for being so patient with me... :) :)

Ty for the terminology. Now i understand

Yes i remember. When i found the leak i was hoping id get lucky. Shoulda just bought one back then..lol just one quik question for you. What is the "mpi" what does it stand for and what does it do?

looked into rebuilding one cost round 200 or so and takes 3 weeks... new one every where else i looked cost alot more than that. I was getting prices close to and over 500. I dont know.. as i said im new to this market. Just need the car to be driving by the end of the month

Will have a new ecu on thursday. Ordered from napa.. 305 bucks. Same as summit racing but 2 weeks faster getting it. Now in a previous comment when the ecu was mentioned a "mpi" was reffered as a common problem. What is it and should i go ahead and replace it also? I also just wanna say that...

When you fill the trans that is how you tell it is full. When alil fluid starts to come out it is full.. i would say it is full or real close to since it prolly was still just alil warm

I opened it and thought everthing looked good. Then i noticed the light green corosion around one capasitor by white boards.

Ok ill open it. I did get out and feel the injectors while it was making that noise and i could feel it when i touched them. Ill take a pic and post it when i open it

Nice ride