Okay. I'm the worst. I have this car and its been sitting way too long. I need it gone. It's a 1996 Eagle Talon with a whole load of mods and a fair amount of problems. I was on the path to restoring my car to glory, but I'm a full time nursing student, and I can't maintain this thing while...

Additional Photos have been posted to the build thread. If it doesn't go, it'll be a part out.

Still need to get rid of this guy. I'm more interested in finding the right owner. Prices is very negotiable.

I posted this a few month back but forgot about it entirely. I've got a DSM sitting in front of my house wanting a new home. It's a 1996 Eagle Talon with a whole load of mods and a fair amount of problems. I was on the path to restoring my car to glory, but I'm a full time nursing student, and...

This is sorta a feeler, but a fairly serious feeler. It's a 1996 Eagle Talon with a whole load of mods and a fair amount of problems. I was on the path to restoring my car to glory, but I'm a full time nursing student, and I can't maintain this thing while using as my DD anymore. It has a lot of...

Retime for sure. They have a little plastic tool that can lock the cams in position for stuff like this in the future. Its a pretty basic part of timing tool kits.

Half venting half searching for a suggestion.I'm in the process of a minor overhaul that is taking way to damn long. Quick rundown of my recent work: New FP manifold and turbine housing for a hopefully exhaust leak free setup. Swapped ebay IC that came with the ride for a Punishment racing...

JFPryde updated My pretty 96 Talon TSiView updates to this DSM profile...

JFPryde updated My Ugly 95 Eagle TalonView updates to this DSM profile...

So I had to jump the wife's minivan this morning, and I noticed my vacuum line to my AFPR had become disconnected. Upon further inspection, I noticed that it was leaking fuel from the vacuum line. Obviously a non-starter (puns are fun).It's an ebay el-cheapo, so I ran that risk. Its Christmas...

Get the car off the wheels and check for obvious excess play in the control arms/ ball joints. I had a similar issue, shot ball joint. It was pretty dangerous, particularly going over bumps.

Looking at other broken vcus, I suspect you're correct. Are 2g awd vcus the same part number regardless of mt/at? They look to be the same in pictures I've seen. I haven't been able to find any part numbers. I suppose welding my center diff is an option to correct?

Just dropped in a rebuilt 1G 7 bolt into my 96 AWD Tsi. I was in the process of finishing up some things when I went to change auto tranny filter. I found a unknown ring in the pan, some metal shavings too. The shavings are all really fine and I don't know the last time the fluid/filter was...

Journals get fed oil just like everything else and likely ate metal like everything else. Check it or dont, but it's your dollar when it blows up on you.

There is a reason it keeps spinning bearings. Throwing New bearings at it and hoping for the best is not a plan for a long lasting engine. Pull it, inspect it, and address the issues. Check clearances, crank end play, evidence of damage throughout the block and head etc. You need to check the...

They come with what they say is an offset reducer to connect to the turbo. Depending on your j pipe, you can probably get a regular silicone reducer to work.

Yes, you can rent a fuel pressure test kit. Harbor freight has a kit as well for 25 bucks or so. Not a bad investment.Fuel can be tricky so doing it the right way is important. When I had my issues I saw fuel on the plugs when I pulled them and ruled out fuel issues. Shouldn't have...

Keep at it man. I had similar frustrations on my most recent purchase. Turned out just to be the fuel filter needed changing. A silly maintenance thing, but it had me going on circles for weeks.

For the piping sure. I'd pass on an ebay core.

Your swapping into a AT Chassis correct? If so then just follow the standard 1g in a 2g swap. If you are trying to covert from MT to AT you have a bit more work.

Interesting build! I'd love to see the final product. I got the same response from delta in the cams which really bummed me out. Still in the air for the cams in my build.

I would take your crank to a machine shop before you label it dead. Let them tell you if its past redemption.

If your going to do any serious mods down the line do your maintenance and then get link. Get the most from any set up and be able to troubleshoot any host of issues.

Pulled the bumper and FMIC off my donor for a transplant. Cleaned and preped them for install while I wait for the last few parts (I hope) for my engine build to come in. I'd do more cleaning of parts but I need a real compressor first. Damn things aren't cheap.

Yes but it shouldn't be an issue unless it's really cold.OP, is it staying at high idle or is it pulsing up and down?

Silicone intakes has some pretty awesome prices on teflon stainless lines if your going to do your fuel lines. Their fittings are pretty competitive too. I just picked up everything to do mine, and it was considerably cheaper than any other source I could find. It helps that they are right down...

I believe there is a VAGCOM FTDI cable that you maybe able to use to log, but it won't work for flashing. If your planning to use ecu flash as a tuning solution then you need the open port cable. It's still cheaper than link, but it can be difficult to learn and there's far less support For it...

Black boxes can log without the flashing. EVOScan is what you need to buy to do the logging, but your going to need a Tactrix openport cable if you don't have one yet. ECU Flash will be what you use to Flash and tune along with Ceddymods if you so chose.

Oh wow, that is just terrible. Sending units can be found on the cheap if your thrifty. Ive never heard of boiling a tank before, but you may have better luck in the junk yard.Great find on the car though. Give it the love it deserves.

Just finding this thread sooooo I'm going to cover my last two weeks.My recently purchased 96 TSi spun a rod bearing, so I decided to pull the motor from my 95 TSi and do a minor rebuild and put it in my 96. Pulled the Donor motor and discovered that it had walked, and one rod had just begun...

Per a DSM Wiseman on this thread: http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/1g-7-bolt-pistons.440577/ The 1g 7 bolt pistons won't effect the compression. They are the same compression ratio as the 6 bolt pistons which is 7.8:1 . 2g pistons are higher compression which is 8.5:1.It's important to know...

Totally agree with this. Can it be restored? Yes, but the DSM Gods will make you suffer. He has another DSM and can't tell you if it had link or not. Thats a big red flag.

I'm a firm believer that 7 Bolts have far too bad a reputation for what they are. Proper blueprinting, assembly, and adjustment of your clutch all will minimize the chance of things going wrong in a 7 bolt engine. Ensuring oil pressures are correct and conducting proper maintenance all are key...

Thanks for saying so. Just what I needed!

The stock 98 cas isn't no. I suppose I should have paid attention when you said it was stock. As mentioned before, knock is another reason for timing being pulled. Its possible your running lean due to fuel delivery issues, but that's just another hypothesis. Being able to log would be helpful...

What voltage are you seeing in EVOscan when you have the car running? When my alternator started to die the low voltage caused me issues with ECU Flash.

I have one of each, one a 95 the other a 96 (both are AWD). I had the MT first and it was first stick shift I drove in about a decade. When I got my auto for a sick price, I was really skeptical about it and had planned to swap the tranny to a 5 speed before ever driving the thing. I was wrong...

Cars always have a way of teaching young people life lessons. I bought a BMW while stationed in Germany when I was 18 and didn't check the oil when I bought it. I now have the connecting rod mounted on my wall of memories (Really).I'm in the same boat as you now though. I two Talons with spun...

The 190s are fine. The 255s will require the AFPR.

I agree that it sounds like timing, for one reason or another. If you're running an adjustable CAS you may need to check your base timing.It takes a good bit of fluid to hydrolock a motor (more than the volume of the cylinder when the piston is at the top of its stroke).

The BISS screw seal in the TB should also be checked of your going to do the TB shaft seals. Just make sure your careful to set it back at the right depth (or have Link to fix it).

It's been a host of basic maintenance stuff. I honestly have whole new appreciation for the basics. Fuel filter needed changing (yeah, I joined the "changed a 2G fuel filter club" there should be t shirts). It also needed plugs and wires because the engine was badly misfiring. I've got those...

Problem resolved. It was either the gas or MPI. I did both at the same time so couldn't say which. There's still driveability problems, but that's a different story. :banghead:

Really early, somewhere around 1500K. It was mostly just made noise though because the timing was so retarded (should be +5*s, mine was -5*s) there wasn't any power associated with it. I have a hill near my house that I couldn't get up because the car was making so little power.I was just...

JFPryde submitted a new DSM Profile :My pretty 96 Talon TSiRead more about this vehicle here...

JFPryde submitted a new DSM Profile :My Ugly 95 Eagle TalonRead more about this vehicle here...

Not personally. Car was running at the time (poorly), but I was confident it was an airflow problem. Seller claimed to have conducted compression test a week prior and said it was a touch low, but these are old cars. I should have checked myself, I know, but I was pressed for time.

Confirmed. I just did a Blacktop CAS install into a 2Ga talon while running a 98-99 blackbox ECU. No wire swapping needed. Should fire right up, but your going to have to set the timing. My timing was initally -5* and it caused my turbo to spool like crazy. All good now!