"... I was accelerating there was a kind of pop. Suddenly all my acceleration stopped and my car started slowing down and the rpm's went down as well. Ever since then my acceleration has been limited. I have a boost and vacuum gauge in my car and the vacuum has no effect but when I get to around...

2nd the plugs. BPR copper is all you want to use

Seriously?

These guys were doing engine builds with 6 bolt rods machined to fit in the 7 bolt block. They did this as a step toward avoiding crankwalk. There was a write up around here somewhere....http://www.jackstransmissions.com/pages/dsm-selection

Yeah, that's looks like just a little surface rust. Blast it, paint it, coat it, run it.

DSMrightontime updated Project PhoenixView updates to this DSM profile...

Here ya gohttp://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/everything-you-want-to-know-about-the-maf-translator-maft.174055/

Yup, that was it. Arm was stuck. After spraying the arm with liquid wrench and manually freeing it, I hit it with 14 psi. It drug slowly about 1/4" then would kind of let go and extend a little faster. I swapped it with a spare and it's good to go!

A quick follow up, and the reason I wanted to determine why I was experiencing the issue;Dead on! Found significant leak at a coupler. FixedSpiking returned and progressed to a total fail in boost control. Waste gate opens fine manually with actuator arm removed. I believe that only leaves...

Thanks for the tips and info fellas!

I'll pull a blt to 20 and see what happens

So, went ahead and installed the mbc and dropped it to 12psi, lowest I could lower it. It still spikes to 14/15 psi but hasn't duplicated the problem. Just wish I knew exactly what I had been experiencing.

I was more looking for WHY it's happening. I'm trying to learn and understand the system, so yes, why does matter

Well, I thought i was following the free mod section on this site as the primary steps before I went with the real mods. The smart remark isn't necessary or helpful. If removing the boost restrictor shouldn't be done until after heavy mods are completed, why is that one of the first steps after...

No, I haven't unfortunately.Solenoid is open. Doesn't affect normal driving operation, though. Ecu just goes straight to closed loop, as it does once warm, anyway. No biggie there

Wouldn't I be smelling a heavy sulfuric odor? I'm not throwing any o2 codes, either. I don't have any cel's, actually, save the fuel pressure solenoid. That's been faulty for a while, tho.

Yeah, I'm leaning more and more toward just turning down the boost until upgrading the entire system. I think it's just time to throw some money into it and really enjoy this car. I'll get the evo scan just to see a little inside for the moment, and mass parts thru the winter

Definitely not a backfire, and no sign of smoke, that I can see from the drivers seat, anyway. No misfire at all under wot. Before or after the bang and brief power loss.I'll definitely do this. I didn't realize their was such a cheap logging option.

Right on. Think that's the best bet. I'll set the mbc for 13 and upgrade the entire system in one shot after Christmas. I'm thinking it's fuel cut, too.

i have a wally 190 installed. If i install the gm maf-t i have on deck, can i fake out the cpu to handle the additional psi, or should i upgrade the injectors first? Or the hell with it all and upgrade the entire system...fuel, turbo, exhaust, ecu and dsm link...?

it spiked and held 12psi before mod....never a problem like this

no, never a boost spike before removing the restrictor. I'm feeling, in my gut, fuel cut. But i've never seen it on such low boost in other vehicle applications. DSM is new to me tho...

ok, i'm on that. major leak possibilities; Injector seals, tb?i just did, thoroughly, fmic and piping, so that should be good.

stock exhaust. 3" is on the wish list. I am definitely seeing creep, tho. I see it if i hold in 3-5 gear long enough. even on the t25. I'd say it was fuel cut, but is that possible on a near stock setup????

Gapped at 28 to avoid spark blowout, and we're talking 5 days... I'll blt at 20psi and see what happens. But even at a few psi would the leak be so bad to cause the issue?

Yup. Brand new bpr6es, and boost leak good to 14psi

yessir. it's up to date. VERY few mods

The control solenoid is there. i removed the insert in the 4mm line going to it

I made a post, too. Hopefully we get some help!

Hella frustrating!

Well, I'm only running a t25, and the boost restrictor removal is one of the "free upgrades" hailed on this site. That's why im surprised. I'm not sure if its a boost leak, which is entirely possible. when i tested it was at 14 psi, because i was only seeing 12 at the time. but would a leak that...

So, I removed the boost restrictor in the boost control solenoid and I went from 12 to 18 psi, BUT, when I hold past 14psi the engine bangs violently and loses power for a second. It immediately returns with boost holding at 12-10 psi. What gives? It feels like the must violent Rev limiter ever...

Jeez. I'm having similar issue. Mine bucks hard after boost spikes above 14psi. EVERY time I pass 14psi it happens. It was good until I removed boost restrictor in bcs. Any ideas? Sorry for the thread jack

DSMrightontime updated Project PhoenixView updates to this DSM profile...

Thanks for posting the awesome pics!

Any luck here? I'm having similar issue on a 2g...

Definitely would love to hear it!

Can we get a follow up here? I'm having very similar issues with a 97 GST Spyder. Began after a Clutch master replacement and clutch drag test. My mechanic and i are stumped!!! FPS read open, but that shoudln't cause this condition right??!! Also car has been running pig rich...

DSMrightontime submitted a new DSM Profile :Project PhoenixRead more about this vehicle here...

Really wish this thread continued. I'm at the exact point with my 97 gst. I'm considering cams and lifters while I'm doing timing belt and VC gasket...

Jeez, man. Sorry for your loss. Sucks you didn't even get a chance to play with it...