I took my black 2g in and had it repainted silver, here are the before and after pics.

Do 1g motors use different length oil pans bolts like 2G's? Timing belt hitting oil pan bolt?

I installed 1" tweeters in the upper dash corners, 6-1/2" coaxials in the doors (had to make my own brackets due to the magnet size) and tweeters, mid bass and subwoofer in the rear.

I purchased one (black) and it is well worth it. Paint came out beautiful and fitment was right on.

Yep, wiring is correct. You will use your old high beam bulb and the plug with the red and black wires on the wiring harness you pulled out of your old headlights should plug directly into it.

Looks like you're selling it.

I've read some posts on here about guys buying one and finding butchered wiring under the hood and dash.

I don't know if this will help or not but I've got XXR530's, 17 x 8.25 with 35 offset. 235/45 tires. Car is lowered. Tires clear the knuckles no problem. I had fender rub in the rear, fenders have been rolled. No fender rub in the front.

Call them, they always answer.

Directions for baking your block: Preheat oven to 400 degrees, season block with salt and pepper to taste, place block in shallow baking dish, place block on center rack of oven, baste every 15 minutes with your favorite motor oil, cover with foil after two hours to keep top of block from...

That looks amazing!

Look at the link to your other thread, I posted a picture of them on my car. That'll give you a better idea. No problem asking me any questions tomorrow. Get the high and low beam wiring out of your stock headlights and then get back to me. That's the hardest part. :thumb:

That's good, they fit. Like I mentioned in your other thread, you're going to have to use the wiring out of your stock headlights. Once you get that wiring out it becomes really easy.

Those should fit your Spyders, have you tried to fit the hid's into the Spyders?

Absolutely plug and play. No modifications needed.

Have you tried that base in your Spyders? It's hard to tell from that base but it appears to be the stock h1 base.

Use led's in your fog lights. Good luck finding a hid that would fit. Here are the led's that I used. Mine are yellow but you can find white if that's what you want. The key is finding what will fit. The last picture in the Amazon ad shows the dimensions. No matter what color you get, don't get...

Also, post a picture of the hid bulb base that came with the kit. The Spyder headlights use a different bulb base than the stock headlights.

Here's a link to your post on the same subject back in December. Scroll down to the instructions and pictures I provided. http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/please-help-headlights.508213/#post-153623705

Here's mine. I did the tail lights, reverse lights and third brake light. All done with film.Another pic.

Thanks, it was a fun project. I still need to carpet the rear section. I have to give thanks to Zero6391 for helping me with the audio side. I learned so much from him. It's great to have the help of fellow members.

Here's a pic of my rear seat delete project completed.

Unfortunately, the video didn't play for me but I had a bad squealing on my passenger side. Water pump seized, shredded the timing belt, before I could get it shut down, bent valves.

Here's what I've been working on and just finished today. 12" Alpine SWA-12S4 subwoofer. http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/rear-seat-delete.508582/

A few things I got done today. I got the front panel mounted, ran my power wire to a distribution block. I also got the deck carpeted, the amps mounted and the power and ground wires run to the amps. I should have everything completed tomorrow.

I got my front panel cut and shaped today. Cut out of a 2" x 10". I countersunk 3/4" holes in the top for the bolts I'll be installing and then drilled all the way through with a 5/16" bit, drilled holes in the front for wiring and got it carpeted. I removed the back seat latches to expose...

Nice job on what I've seen so far! That looks like a lot of work.

I'm the op, jack away. ROFL

Now that's a rear seat delete! Did you do it yourself? Any build pics?

Very nice, keep the updates coming!

Actually, I'm using 1/2", not 5/8". I was going to use 5/8" plywood but decided on 1/2" mdf instead. It's not too heavy yet. I'm hoping to get the front section cut out, carpeted and installed this week. I'm waiting for my mono amp and sub enclosure (be here this week). Hopefully have...

Started working on my rear seat delete. I got the deck section in yesterday. 5/8" MDF hinged in the back for ease of access underneath. Also had to hinge the side wing sections in order for it to hinge (tight fit). I now need to do the front panel. I'm doing that out of a 2" x 10" (cut down to...

Might want to install an inline fuse in that jumper.

I've got the ghetto fix done right now and it's interfering with the lock, definitely need to change that.

I'm going to try the pb blaster as suggested by NY 95 and see if that free's things up. If not, I'll pull the handle. Thanks for the tips.

I just thought the slot got worn but the passenger side doesn't get used anywhere near as much as the drivers side. Makes more sense that it's gummed up like you said. At least I hope.

There is someone on here selling a modification kit, have you seen that?

I'm definitely going to try the pb blaster first and see what happens. Sure don't have anything to lose.

That's exactly what my problem is and when I finally got something wedged in there it bound the lock up just like you said. I guess the pb blaster is coming out now. Got my fingers crossed, thanks.

Not looking forward to that. My handle isn't actually broken, I just have a lot of play in the handle. Tried to put a bolt in the slotted section of the handle rod and dropped the bolt. It didn't make it to the bottom of the door. Landed in the latch assembly. I need to pull the latch and...

I bet, like the first time I took off my front bumper, took forever it seems like. Now it takes about 20 minutes.

Thanks, wasn't thinking about that.

I tried a ratcheting boxed wrench but it didn't work. Maybe the ratchet section was too thick. Couldn't get the open end on, kept hitting the lock before it started loosening. Of course the one tool I don't have is a regular 10mm boxed end. Off to hf tomorrow.

to get that one SOB 10mm exterior door handle bolt loose, you know the one I'm talking about, the one above the lock. I've tried everything including a 1/4" ratchet and the back of it hits the window glass. :mad:

Not saying it's not drivetrain related but I had a car where if you hit a bump at highway speed the steering wheel would start shaking violently. Wouldn't shake at slower speeds. Turned out to be front wheel out of balance.

Got to agree with spyderdrifter, wheel(s) out of balance.

Try here. http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/will-these-wheels-tires-fit.286685/

So, are you going to keep it a secret?

:thumb:

Thank, I appreciate that but I made the mod inside my fuse box. Still fuse protected and I did have to modify any of the wiring.