Was wondering if some of you guys could help me with my dsmlink settings. I feel like I have most of the settings dialed in ok but not sure where else to make adjustments. My main issue is running really high air fuel ratio at idle it will normally run around 16:1 to 17:1 after warmed up...

Yes after swapping out the o2 sensor it finally went into closed loop. Still oscillate up and down slowly so going to buy a new one and swap in.

Yes I did notice that today and felt like an idiot. That still did not help but I changed the o2 with one I had laying around and did solve the issue now into my next issue why one fan isn't coming on. Thanks for everyone's help. After I find out more on that wire I wss posting about I will...

So finally got back out to the car today. So if all settings for the car to be in closed loop are met and dsmlink still shows it isn't in closed loop is this caused by a bad o2? My o2 still doesn't cycle on idle but does move while driving.

Here is a log with a lot of idle time and a small drive. Looks to me like it isn't going into closed loop.

I will get a lot today. Still figuring out dsmlink so might take me a few. It basically stays at .06 or lower for a long time after I went for a drive it would move around only when the throttle was hit but would never cycle up and down. Thinking the o2 is bad because how much fuel the previous...

So I didn't cut the tape back past to see how they were connected. I have no reason to believe what they did was wrong if they did splice it or if it was factory. It just seemed out of the norm from what I would expect to see. As far as the white with the heat shrink that was my patch job from...

So removing the safc2 that was in my car and switching to dsm link I notice 2 wires that have possibly been modified but not positive may be factory just want to get input before I go further with it. It is pin 9 (detonation sensor) and pin 2 (diagnosis data transfer select terminal) both white...

That is great information that will help a lot.

Yeah I'll try that again I did it once because the FTRL was locked at 139 it dropped down to 117 next time I drove but climbed up to 130 but will try bumping it up to +30 and drive it again. Thanks again for your help.

So after taking your advice I adjusted SAFC2 to +20 and ran a lot better. Playing with fuel trims now to get it adjusted correct. Currently FTRL is around 125% so I'm I understanding this right I should go to maybe +30 or is that the wrong direction?

Lasershark sorry if it came off like I didn't believe you just trying to understand. I swear everything I read says negative and that's what is confusing me. You response makes a lot of sense and I'm going to try your suggestion as soon as I get a chance. Thanks for the help.

Is this correct? Everything I've read says -20 percent because the 2g MAF flows 20 percent more air not less right? That's why larger injectors balance it out. I could be miss understanding it and if I am someone let me know.All I have accomplished so far is getting valve cover off and...

Reset the ignition timing after switching the CAS it's set to 5 degree BTDC. My next steps are going to be pull valve cover off and compare the cams to stock, compression test, leak down test. Any other suggestions?

Can someone please confirm I'm not losing my mind. So finally got back to work on the car today first thing I wanted to check was CAS. So put the car to top dead center for cylinder 1 on compression stroke. Pull off the CAS and the marks were not lined up they were opposite. This 180 degrees out...

So reset ECU adjusted SAFC to -20% the car ran very rough. So much never got to drive it. Giving it throttle really stumbled and barely wanted to rev up constantly wanting to die. Might try a boost leak again just to make sure no connections came undone last drive.

Yes I did adjust it till I got continuity between it and throttle body.

Doing a negative correction. At least that is what I've read to do. That we should never use positive on our cars. I have been watching my FTRL it was around 105 after driving it the other day.

I have read it's around 20% difference. I also read of people saying their cars run great with no adjustment. I was at 5% correction yesterday going to try 20% tomorrow. Really need a wideband installed would make it a lot easier. For some reason the guy installed a narrow band which is useless...

So it does have an exhaust leak for sure I believe it is past the o2 but is also on my list to do. As far as maintenance everything is good engine was completely rebuilt with receipts he just couldn't get it to run so gave up. I did have injectors sent off and cleaned already. He had 1000cc...

So wiring checked out fine on SAFC2. Checked mechanical timing which was off a little. Fixed that car idled closer to 750 once the car was warmed up. Still runs a little rough. The car kind of stumbles when at lower speeds. Thinking fuel is a little off due to the 2g MAF and stock injectors...

Is there any other items I should look at that would cause the idle not to change when adjusting it? I've double checked the wiring to the maf everything looked correct. Next I'll check wiring too the safc2.

Yes it does have aftermarket fuel pressure regulator I pulled vacuum hose off and set to 38. Ecu came from a manual car so it's set for the 450cc injectors.

I grounded both plugs. When I adjust the biss screw out the idle stays the same. If I screw it in all the way it dies. So far just replaced parts and trying to figure the idle issue out. Tps is set to 10.1% on MMCD. Ignition timing is correct have not checked mechanical timing yet. Only have...

90EclipsePos submitted a new DSM Profile :AWDRead more about this vehicle here...

Sorry for the vague title not sure best way to put it. So just bought a 91 gsx from a guy who was the 2nd person to start this project. It originally was automatic and converted to manual. Bought it not running it has rebuild engine, 340 fuel pump, new turbo and larger cams and safc2 he also...

Yes I have had my share of bad pcv. So now I run a pc I have tested and works plus one of the plastic check valves. I've come to the conclusion I need larger vent lines due to being stroked and running high boost. I've checked compression and leak down and boost leak all are perfect. So will be...

so finally got the chance to download my logs today so I could post but most of the logs that would have had the information I needed come up blank and force close the program not sure what happened to them.

I have not OHM'd the knock sensor yet. I did replace it about 500 miles ago. I can only hear a little lifter noise when I first start it nothing after that. As far as mods it is a 2.3 stroker with 272 cams, T3/T4 turbo, eprom ecu with custom chip, and MAF-T. I was able to adjust my fuel a little...

I put a tissue above the cylinder and watched for it to blow off so I would know I was on compression inserted an extension till it started to get to the top and also matched up marks on cam gears.So I was an idiot and that cylinder was not on compressing stroke. So retested all cylinders and...

So started doing a leak down test. I only did cylinder 1 and 4. 1 came out pretty good but 4 I'm getting air leaking out intake and exhaust. So my next question is how can I tell if it's the valve seals or bent valves? Hopefully tomorrow I will try cylinders 2 and 3. Also just wanted to check...

I will do my best tonight to pull the data log and get you as much information as I can. Thanks again for the help

So what about that ridiculously high count of 224 counts of knock? Phantom knock wouldn't cause that would it? And how is 224 counts even possible?

Any one have any ideas?

Is there any way air could be leaking past a seal on the turbo?

So I just finished a compression test and all cylinders were 170 psi. Should I still do a leak down test? Or is there something else I should be checking?

So having a few issues with my car. A couple issues I have noticed is I get knock in first gear just when I lightly take off not flooring it or anything just normal every day driving. normally around 8-10 counts. Another issue last time I went to the track I noticed my data logger showed it...

I already have all the emissions and vacuum lines removed that I possibly can. When I do the test I block the line going to the boost controller. The BOV is after market and isn't leaking. As far as the PCV I have one of the us plastic check valve which isn't leaking by. I pulled it off the...

So I pressurized the piping heading to the intake manifold. Which holds pressure with no leaks. But when I pressurized from the air intake on the turbo the pressure leaks out the valve cover. As far as the chip and maf-t I'm not sure what I should be looking for. I set the maf-t to stock...

So I have been working on this car for a long time. I've always had an issue with getting it to idle right. It does pretty good but not a 100% I'm trying to figure out why my low fuel trim will constantly set to 139%. So while doing a boost leak I've noticed I lose most of the pressure from the...

It vibrates for a fraction of a second with the black and white wires swapped. So what in the world would cause it to work correctly if my pin 6 and 14 are swiped on the ecu? Ecm tuning says those wires have nothing to do with the isc But some how it causes my isc to work one way or the other...

Tonight I will try swapping black and white wires and see if that helps. Other then that I'm about it off ideas. I'll see about making a video also if it doesn't work.

Here are the pics for the wiring to the ecu.

Okay so swapping ecu did nothing same issue. Swapping both reds around did nothing.Attached are pics of the ECU, shouldn't matter now but still putting them on. Next I'll take pictures of ECU wires to confirm they are correct.Any other ideas out there? It makes no sense to me at the...

I should be able to adjust my maft for my injectors instead of swapping them out right? Also I should be fine either way since to test the isc I only turn the ignition to "on" instead of starting right?

I'll get some pictures tonight I'm also going to swap in my stock ecu and see if it operates the same way and that should help narrow it down a little more. But I'll get some pics tonight and post them.

Some of that is beyond my skill set. Lol It is definitely helpful though. The odd part to me is when I change my ecu wires the way I should to run a 91 ecu. My isc works the way it should. Could something in the ecu been installed incorrectly? I serious doubt it could happen, but is it possible?

I'll double check it tomorrow and see if I notice any. The ecu was rebuilt not long ago from motoguys garage. So I haven't suspected it thinking it should be fine

So I double checked today to make sure when I extended my isc wires that I didn't mess up and mix up wires. Everything checks out. My plug matches what a 90 plug should be. My ecu wires are correct. Is it possible for my isc drives in my ecu could be bad and causing this?