belt kit/balance shaft delete/water pump from Extreme PSI paid about 500 for just the kit.ARP head studs torqued once. (Missing 2 nuts)ACL race bearings Rods and mains (Mains have been opened and installed, never ran)piston rings stock borecosmetic gasket kit (minus valve seals) (Does...

$475 shipped

OEM Timing belt kit/balance shaft delete/water pump from Extreme PSI paid about 500 for just the kit.ARP head studs torqued once.ACL race bearings Rods and mainspiston rings stock borecosmetic gasket kit (minus valve seals)Pretty much a nice setup before going forged.I want $500 for...

Pulled my running engine out couple weeks ago (155 Compression across the board), and a couple beers later head and pistons were out. Well engine had OEM STD Main and Rod bearings, so I ordered some Race ACL STD bearings.I had my 9:1 Arias pistons inspected by Arias themselves, and they look...

Wow thats great! Ive been having a rough time finding a built swap so its been fairly slow process. How long does it take to build that much boost?

Zero idea man, bought the entire kit and intercooler kit off a part out, turbo has some play so its going to the turbo man Justin for a refresh Im sure he will give me a good insight.Im excited, now new goals on an auto setup are going to be mid 9s at least. Im keeping the 272s and throwing...

Times have changed, ditched the fp black and bought a top mount t4 s366 setup so nitrous now is almost certain.

Pulling main and rod bearings and these part numbers look a tad weird.It's a 6 bolt, is there possibility that I have a 7 bolt crank? reason I ask is because these bearings say 2g, and I'm replacing with ACL Race 6 bolt STD bearings...

After trying to score a good deal on a 1g/2g trans setup, I'm starting to think that I am just going to go through with a 1G auto swap.The plan is: Magnus SMIM 280 Cams FP Black JB 38mm EWG 2.0 8.5 Low compression Arias/Eagle combo E85I have a nitrous kit hanging around that I can use if...

Improper step height on flywheel?

Dammit so Close to just buying a new act2600 and throwing my trans back in.

Having a real tough time sourcing an Auto Swap for my car. Tranny and engine is already out, quick question though.Would a 2g auto donor car work to swap everything over into my 1G? I Know I need rear end, differential, transfer case, converter, but I would much rather run a 2g Trans.

I'm thinking what I'm going to do is run a 2g Transmission so I can run a pte billet converter

What clutch and trans do you Have?A small part of me just wants to throw in a twin disk so I can get back on the road.Ill probably be right around 600 whp

I guess less chances to mess up in an auto is what makes it appealing to me. Like GST mentioned, the overall reliability in a drag purpose car is nice.Can't beat the cool points though, I just don't see myself spending the big pennies on a dogbox any time soon.

I like winning races, and decreasing the chances of losing so an auto might be in my favor...engine and tranny are coming out so I might as well swap out now

I definitely don't daily the car. It only comes out for meets and racing. Occasionally ill take it to work which is 2 miles away.This is my second built tranny and 4th clutch. I just hate being inconsistent, not that I'm a bad driver but under pressure and some big bucks on the line, I tend to...

Currently running a stage 3 Shep trans act 2600 combo, but really looking to do an auto swap. Mainly for reliability and consistency in launches.Pros and cons? Im guessing it will be easier to go ahead and find a donor 1g auto

bump

I'm willing to bet its 1-2 Teeth off. You may or may not have bent valves. Best Idea now is just have someone take the head off, check the head, properly reinstall it.You may be looking at a damaged valve(s), or maybe have gotten away with just a friendly slap. Worst possible outcome is All...

Exactly! Could be that the turbo needs a real rebuild and journal blue print.

On this log I was going for 28 lbs and didn't hit peak boost till about 6300 RPMish...its ridiculous haha

Rebuilt it, still had little shaft play. Seems fine to me, couple dings on the wheels but nothing way to huge.

No Cat here. Running 3" all the way to a dynomax muffler

I've already checked all the above and everything was in line except a "Mystery boost leak" that I could hear coming from the crankcase and escaping through valve cover. First I thought, well its most likely the turbo seals, so I rebuilt the turbo to the best of my capabilities (No prior rebuild...

Go Speed density if you can. Get a MAP sensor, that will help us look at your boost curve and see where its going south. I would also recommend switching out that stock Boost controller for a 3 port Mac boost solenoid. They're like 30 bucks on ebay and fool proof install.

So he "Installed" the timing belt and water pump? What happened, was he left mechanical timing WAY off and your valves are smacking your pistons. Timing belt job just turned into a complete head job.Cheap work is not good and Good work is not cheap 99% of the time. I'd hold the "Mechanic"...

Yeah it felt great! Going to upgrade!

I've been dealing with a similar issue. When I do a boost leak from the turbo Inlet I have excessive air coming from my valve cover. I rebuilt turbo, fixed all external boost leaks, and literally when it pressurizes to about 20 PSI the dip stick will blow out, and the PCV ports I plugged up will...

Panchoelkatch updated Red RocketView updates to this DSM profile...

Panchoelkatch updated Red RocketView updates to this DSM profile...

Went back to the track on 91 and Pulled off a 12.2 at 118. 1.8 60'Went back couple weeks ago on 112 Octane and Did 11.9 at 120 1.7 60'. Clutch was slipping real bad, time for a twin disk and tear down.

well I can't fab up the new dump tube untill next weekend, so I'm thinking about flipping the dump towards the hood and remove the hood haha. Just for tuning purposes trying to get the car ready for next weekend.

Ok so went out this morning and did a pull. First Pull I got 23 lbs of boost up to 7500, no problem. Voltage was at about 13.0. Did another pull 30 minutes later, was a little hotter out, and I got the same annoying fuel cut /Pop/ and didn't hit full boost. Well I checked log and voltage is at...

I'm pretty sure they all do the same thing...my buddy is running just a regular AFPR, he's right around 600-650.

1). Any boost, vac, or exhaust leaks? No2). Verified mechanical timing? Yes 3). Verified base timing? Yes 4). Ignition system COP or Stock Coil:Stock Wire brand and Age:New wires Spark Plug brand, type and Gap: BPR8ES .0285). Motor health (Compression Test) Cylinder 1:150 Cylinder 2:150...

Still learning as I go anyways, I installed an AFPR. I know stock base pressure for 1g is 37 psi, but I'm working my injectors pretty hard, so would like to know what fp you guys run on your 1g? I have a 7 bolt head with 6 bolt block. What tuning adjustments would I have to make after raising...

91 Octane.

Just on Regular Premium unleaded.

Panchoelkatch updated Mystery CarView updates to this DSM profile...

Panchoelkatch updated Mystery CarView updates to this DSM profile...

First run ever at a track. Dump the clutch with 2 Step set to 4750 bog out, and take off, than hit the rev limiter from 2nd to 3rd, let off lost boost and shift. Thought it was a going to be a crappy run, but 12.557 ET, 2.1 60,and 115 Trap.2nd Run: Set 2 Step to 5500 and turn on Anti-Lag...

Cars been running fine, drove it 200 miles last week. Parked it, boost leaked. Noticed that I had air going past my turbo seals and into the crankcase (Oil Gurgle). Started the car up this morning, and holy hell smoke everywhere! First thing I did was compression test, 150 all across. So tore...

I mean I'm not bashing them I'm just curious, because I spent upwards of 75 USD to ship it to them, and I still have leaks and came back warped. I mean that includes shipping suplies but still.

I got it back around the 10th of January, and I just emailed them, I'll see what they say.

Yes already done it.

Got the manifold back on, unfortunately it was a pain in the Ass to get on because the flange that meets the cylinder head, had warped and made it extremely hard to get on without cross threading the bolts. I also still have 2 pin hole leaks coming from where they re welded it. I'm only testing...

As of Today, I've removed the brake booster line, and there is no check valve any where in the line. Weird huh? I ordered a couple 3/8 Check valves from USPlastics.com now I'm just waiting for it.As for the Leaky bolt, I used liquid teflon sealer on all the bolts and lightly RTV'd the gasket...

Just Looked them up and they look Identical. Thanks fellas

I know they're not stock, just can't find any lettering of any sort.