That's about the safest way imo. Anytime you do anything with the timing belt it's a good idea to set the engine to tdc. If you have anymore questions about the process just ask, there are plenty of us willing to help.
If it's wanting to bind up before it's tight I would cleans the threads and make sure everything spins smooth. If it's nice and clean it should tighten right up. I remember putting my window back in was a pita.
When I did my head gasket I just made sure to clean the deck very thoroughly. Only time I would worry about the block is if you overheated severely and thought you warped the block or you plan on running a mls head gasket it is suggested to get the correct surface texture for sealing purpose...
Have you tried replacing any of the relays in the circuits that are giving you problems. If the relay contact is stuck closed when you don't have power applied it would cause symptoms like you are having. But it does sound like you are getting some stray voltage somewhere in you fuse box. Hope...
I was able to tighten by hand just holding the backside with a finger. Worst case is if you can't find a key or tool to hold it is maybe some kind of epoxy to keep it in place maybe.
I would try running a more stabe voltage to the unit and try the volume after that. It could just be your wiring is not up to handling whatever power requirement the head unit is needing at those levels. Unless it's a known issue with that head unit I would shy away from disabling a voltage...
Don't be so hard on yourself bro, we all make mistakes at some point, easiest thing to remember is put the oil in on top hopefully you have better luck from here and if you have concerns about anything going on just ask some of these guys.
I'm not 100% with these cars yet as I am still learning but don't those vacuum lines run to the fuel pressure regulator? The waste gate solenoid on my car was mounted to the passenger side inner fender. I would check there also, looks the exact same and for all I know could be. Maybe someone...
It's connected to the turbine housing but yes. If you can compress the rod into it and keep your finger tip over the nipple you should feel the air pressure against it. An easy check, easier to do when it's removed. It sounds more like the linkage isn't set cause when my diaphragm blew on my old...
Also make sure the waste gate preload is set correctly. If it's just slipped on the linkage then pressure will force it open before you start building boost.
The 13g is known good? I would try a different waste gate actuator. Also check the linkage on the waste gate flapper, mine sheared the clip one time and the arm vibrated off, not what you want to find out when you're trying to gain speed to merge on an on ramp. Hope this helps.
Sounds like a plan, and damn autocorrect on this phone but I'm sure you knew what I meant about checking the ohms through the fan. If not I'm more than happy to help you through it.
Love my 68hta, great turbo for the price and the turbin housing is top notch if you ask me. Well worth it, take her to McDonald's in the car!I just painted some of the intercooler piping on mine today, j-pipe is still hanging up curing.
I know back in the day advance sold an amplified hidden antenna. That could be a possibility if you want to shave it completely. Easily hidden up above the headliner or somewhere in the dash.
I would start with homing out the new fans, make sure it isn't shorting out internally. Wouldn't want to speak ill of Mishimoto products but sometimes products fail. If the circuit is fine with factory fans then it doesn't sound like your problem is with the cars wiring. If everything checks out...
In my past experience a bad alignment can cause a car to shake, to the severity that you are having I don't know but it's worth a shot and it's one more thing that's fixed and maybe a partial fix. Hope you get it figured out soon.
Is it a smoke coming from your tailpipe or more of a steam? If it was coolant it seems to disipate a lot faster than smoke will coming from the exhaust. Also is it only when the car is first started or is it constant throughout? I could see the smoke being white depending on lighting or how much...
Just out of curiosity have you tried seafaring the intake? I just had an issue with a misfire that wasn't even throwing a code but mine was constant until I took it out got into the boost. I'm guessing something in my valve seat for some reason just wasn't sealing up. I'm stumped but you don't...
Depending on how long the engine has been out of the car could your battery have possibly discharged down zero volts? Or possibly just forget to hook the battery back up since you were doing pretty heavy maintenance on the car the battery should have been disconnected. Then again you can also...
I change the fuel filter not long ago and have looked into getting the injectors cleaned but there is no place local so I will just replace them when I decide to go bigger here soon.
Well I replaced both coils, still no change. Finished putting the car back together and drove it to the mechanic to put a code reader on it. Only codes were the emissions and the boost solenoid which I expected both of those. No random misfire even though he was sitting right there and could...
That's what I'm leaning towards. I want to run a compression test just to be sure but I know it should turn out fine considering the car was running great before. But I am looking at getting a couple coils just to have on hand.
So my first post on here, I'm not knew to engines just dsm's. I've had my car for a couple years now and seem to have a pretty good grasp on how these cars seem to work. My car overheated so I pull the head get it decked and valves checked for sealing. Bought the new gasket sets, T-belt has...