No.

lmfao what up Daniel

Okay so heres my checklist of what I'm going to do, in order:Install cam seals onto cams Bolt gears to the camshafts Install cams with engine at TDC Finish timing jobWhen should I torque the cam bolts? After the tining belt is tensioned like the oil pump sprocket? Or should I do it before...

Okay I didn't remember that there are alignment pins for the gears. Everything else is in time so I shouldn't have any issues. I'm not out in my garage right now looking at everything or I probably could be figured it out myself. Thanks for the reply!

Every instructional on camshafts installs seem to show how to do it with the engine still installed in the car. I am wondering how much different it is when I have everything sitting on the engine stand? I might be overthinking but I would like to double check. Do I just bolt the cam gears onto...

Do you know the condition of the transmission, driveshaft, transfer case, etc? If they're in working order and most of the damage was to the frame, it might be worth it to just part the car out. Could potentially be a decent donor car for a GST-X conversion or for just those who need parts.

If this changes your mind, my car (evo3 16g) lost in a race against a 1g gsx with the stock 14b and no mods except 272 cams and speed density. 14b is a good turbo and can be pushed to a decent power level.

Well I got everything wired up and the door light came on so I say so far my project was a success. I plan to wire in a kill-switch once everything is back in the car. If I experience any voltage drop once I get the motor back in the car, I'll wire in a ground to lead to the OEM location. But...

Okay so a little off topic but still goes along the lines of battery relocation.. How vital is the white connection that basically separates the rear seats and trunk. I am wondering if I can chop out that part to mount my battery where it is. There is not enough room for the battery box to be...

If it's an eBay 16g, drop the turbo and look inside to see if the waste gate flap is even there. I had that problem twice and I kept kicking myself trying to figure out my boost problems. It would also be helpful if you created a profile for your GSX and include photos of the engine bay and any...

Maybe I am just overthinking this... I am making the car into a 450~whp street car that I can occasionally take to my local drag strip. From what I understand, tech inspection is pretty relaxed at San Antonio Raceway so I could probably get away with any setup as long as it doesn't look...

So I am not touching the connections on the 60A fusible link and 100A alternator "choke" (how it's printed on the fuse box cover)? The 4 white wires that run to terminal is then lengthened, attached to circuit breaker, then to positive battery terminal? What is left with the 2 wires coming from...

What is confusing me is that the 2 connections to the 100A fuse in the stock box are the 4 white wires (that go to positive) and the 2 white wires that go to alternator positive connection. So I must splice another wire into the 100A fuse that will lead to 100A CB pictured? From what it seems to...

I am in the process of relocating my battery in the cabin. I am extremely illiterate when it comes to electrical jobs and usually require step-by-step instructions to make any sense of it for me. (Damn it Jim. I'm a welder, not an electrician!) I have been attempting to follow Jafros diagram but...

I think that most would prefer an 2g Eclipse or Talon rather a Sebring but to each their own! I'd love to see one crushing others on the street. Look up the 4G63T head on the 4G64 block. You're going to want some way to tune the car (either ECMlink or standalone like AEM). Since this isn't...

I am currently gettinga 6 bolt with CP Carillo 9.0:1 pistons and eagle h-beams built. My engine builder/machinist told me that I needed to block off the squirters, because there wasn't a notch in the piston for the squirter. He claims that because it's an aftermarket forged piston, it won't...

My seats have begun pitting from rust on them. That is the sole reason behind getting fresh OEM replacements. Unless I can find some 2g seats laying around, if those are the same?

So I am currently in the process of swapping in a 92 6 bolt into my 97 GST and I am unsure what kind of valve guides will suit my build. I do not want to spend the money on aftermarket ones if some brand new OEM ones will work just fine. I currently have a bare head ready to be built. Nothing is...

That Muggy 77 electrode that DSMkauai posted is pretty bad ass, no preheating required for cast. But with this engine build in full swing, my new turbo might just need a new manifold. Still need to decide what turbo to go with. I wanted to fix this FP manifold so I could just get something like...

I emailed FP and I have still yet to receive a response! I did attempt to fix the manifold though. I am currently in school for welding and I had the guy in charge weld it for me. One of the sides there's a surface crack but light doesn't shine through it so it might be okay for a little while...

I am in the exact situation you were in. I own 2 keys. 1 that looks brand new that only works on the ignition, and 1 really old maleable key that barely opens the driver door now. I can't open the hatch or passenger except for inside the car. I write up would be awesome! EDIT: Sorry, I'm not...

Count me in if they become for sale. I'll probably pick up a few to pass along to some more DSM'rs here in SATX

When I bought my car, the previous owner gave me a an E3 16g. But I plan on doing either a 20g or an FP Green/Red next.

Haven't updated this in a few months, but the car is definitely different. This past week, the 16g's coolant lines rubbed together and caused the turbo and motor to overheat, blowing the headgasket and cracking my FP manifold twice. Having a 6-bolt from a 92 sitting in the garage, I figured...

Will this be a one time thing? Or do you plan on making more in the future? I would love to get these but I'm in the middle of an engine build/new turbo setup so I don't have the play money for suspension right now.

how long is the warranty for them? I emailed them last night, yet to wait for a reply.

I actually bought the manifold exactly 1 year ago on cyber monday. I'll probably drill a hole on each side of the Crack and grind a V into it and weld from there. what kind of welder should I use? MIG? SMAW?

So the other day my car got pretty hot when my 16g's coolant hoses rubbed together and split. I noticed that my FP manifold had cracked as well. it doesn't look like it went all the way through. will this be fine or can I weld the cracks?

I third the sunroof plug. It weighs so much and always leaks.

Haha thank you sir. Yep the gauge is reading 10.0-10.2 I've gotten mixed opinions on what to trust. The gauge or the computer. I'm going to try and lean it out a tad and see what happens.

I was able to get a laptop and connect up to do a pull and log it. Around 3/4 of the way through is the pull. WOT is 100% at that point.

Before I start, I'm sorry if I'm posting in the wrong section, as I do not know what kind of problem this is. BLT: up to 20psi no leaks except for dipstick Compression check: #1 - 180 #2 - 160 #3 - 160 #4 - 160 It has a new PCV valve, fuel filter, NGK BPR7ES plugs, battery, and alternator. I...

JackStieben updated 1997 GSTView updates to this DSM profile...

Here's a re-cap of my day. I changed the pcv valve and took it for a test drive no issues. Then I drive it to my buddies house to tune it on 750cc injectors and link v3. On the way, the boost starts to sputter at 15lbs. Get to friends house and pulled the intake pipe and did a compression test...

I replaced the TB seals a few months ago. I just replaced the pcv valve. It looked worn, probably going to do a compression test. just took the intake off. I didn't hear the slight tapping until I watched the video

okay thanks. I will post results

Yeah it's connected at the turbo, I plugged the breather hose. I also plugged the line that goes from the IC piping to MBC. It is not smoking, and I can check the blades tomorrow. If they are rubbing, I'll need a new wheel?

Hello, I'm running an E316g with Evo9 injectors stock motor. I noticed that the turbo was taking longer to spool up and I was hearing a strange noise that sounded like plastic hitting repeatedly under light load. My boost leak tester did not want to pressurize past 5lbs and the only leaks found...

True. I'm all for a mass produced plug. I hate the sunroof so much.

Someone had a write up on here using lexan. Been thinking about trying that.

Does anything light up in that big black circle in the middle of the speedo? Like a digital speed or something?

Did you put any type of seal on the plexiglass? I've been wanting to ditch my sunroof for a while, but I need something that'll be rain proof.

JackStieben updated 1997 GSTView updates to this DSM profile...

JackStieben updated 1997 GSTView updates to this DSM profile...

I'd say look into buying a good condition or already rebuilt used one. If you don't think you can rebuild the turbo correctly, don't do it if it's your daily driver and you can't tinker with it. T28 is nice, but if it's out of your price range and will want to upgrade eventually in the future...

Powder coated my valve cover a mirror blue. Matches my brake calipers

Haha I had to take them off for something (I don't remember why) and I hadn't put them back on for whatever reason. :idontknow::sneaky:

Not really, I'm 6'0" and I can't wear a helmet in the car without doing the gangster lean. After what I've learned, I'd probably go with a shorter bracket.Final Product:The Bracket is a tad tall I had to make one hole slightly larger for the bolt because it wasn't centered properly...

Yep, I put EVO 8 seats with the Wedge brackets in and they fit really snug.

The Recaros from EVOs always look subtle. I have evo 8 Recaros and I think they really help the look of the interior