1G, AWD, TurboThe Car keeps killing the electronic oil presure senders from Mitsubishi. Is this common for the 1Gs? Do you think I just got a bad one? It worked for about 3 days then started reading on and off. Now the gauge just sits there dead.Adam

because my timing belt snapped with 20k on it.I just got done shelling out 600.00 worth of valves, valve guides, belts, and gaskets. ARP's aren't in the budget. Plus the 90-91 head bolts are re-usable

I'm replacing the head gasket on my car. I misplaced two of the head bolt washers is it ok to replace them with Grade 8 washers of the correct size?

I have the manual and it doesn't say which is front or which direction the arrow points. It just says "The first intake Cap is marked "I" and The first Exaust is marked "E" all the other caps are number in seqence." I can't find an "I" or an "E" on either the cam gear side or CAS side.

I have a 1G and can't remeber the order of the Cam bearing caps.Do the they count up from the CAS side or Cam gear. Also which way does the little arrow point.Thank Adam

Could he use an EVO-4 or newer 4g63?

I've never tried and just wonder can you install a piston from the bottom of the block?

Its in the bottom. But I was thinking maybe its being emptied by lack of coolant in the radiator.

Sounds like you have alot of fuel related mods. Do you have a fuel pressure guage?

You can buy an ISC on ebay for about $50.00 tested working.

OK, well start with the basics and work from there.Battery charged. Starter functioning. Starter Relay Functioning.Start there. Did it run before. More info on the car will help also.

When is the last time youve done a tune up? Maybe clean the intake manifold.

I'd remove the actuator and see if the wastegate inside the manifold is siezed or the external actuator is seized.

Take off the top timing belt cover and have a look. Spin the motor over by hand until the two white marks on the timing gears line up. Check to see if the crank is at TDC when they line up if they do.If thats ok do a compression test and let us know.If the belt jumped you bent your...

Steps to fixing your problem. 1. Drill out the old line. 2. Get some new brake line with the same diameter as the old one. 3. Take the fitting off the existing metal fuel line and side it on the new one. 4. Flair the end to the correct size. 5. Gently bend the brake line into the same...

Did you burp the system? You could have air trapped in the system somewhere. When you start the car it could be sucking up all the coolant in the reservoir.

Sounds like an episode of Spaceballs

Doesn't the fuel pump shut off if the car doesn't start?I'd skip messing with the fuel pump and run a compression test.

You can also check the relay for the A/C. If that is stuck on it would be the cause of your problem.

Thats what your fuel filter is for.Adding ATF has been used alot that and adding a quart diesel fuel. Run the car just for a few minutes and then flush the motor.

If you getting low readings on the O2 you still need to fix that as well.

Send it to the scrap yard or try and give it away to a fellow DSMer.

Since you fixed your timing have you done any form of compression test?

Yeah sounds like lifter tick. Check out the link he gave you. Also you can get a new set of lifters on ebay for pretty cheap. $150.00 ish for a full set.

You either wired the system wrong or you have a bad ground. Make sure everything is grounded well and making good contact with the frame.

Goto Vfaq.com make a boost leak tester and check it out. You have a leak somewhere if you can't make boost unless your turbo bit the big one.

you can check them buy grabbing the shaft and check play in the shaft. If you can push it towards the tranny or the wheel 1/2 inch or less its ok. If its anymore its bad. Also if moves front to back side to side its bad.

A/F guage is better then nothing at all.

All the stainless kits I've ever seen only replace the line from the slave to where the rubber connects to the steel tube that goes to the master cyl. Not all the line from slave to master cyl.

I'd deffintly replace your front 02. They usually read low/lean when they start to fail. If your getting .01 its totaly crap.

Why would you want to swap the TB? They should be the same minus vacume lines.

You are correct it doesn't replace the whole thing. Only the rubber line.

Only way to find out which you have is to crack it open or compare the number on it to Eprom ECU numbers.

You should replace the fan as soon as you can. You can goto an autoparts store and pick up a new motor for about $40.00. That or see DSMTrader.com and post a want to buy. For now if you turn on the A/C to high (green light on button) even if it doesn't work that should turn on the A/C fan...

I'm having this problem also on my 90. I'm going to replace the gasket between the block and oil filter assembly.

The guy who made it said he was working on a Knock monitor function also.

If your Check engine light isn't on the computer is not in fallback mode.Do another compression test. Report back.

Brads your not understanding the E-manage is just a means to an ends.1. I'm not sure if you noticed but not many DSM owners tune based on those items. Most logs you see posted from the 2G's are of RPM, Timing, TPS, Injector Duty, and 02. I've never seen someone post Coolant temps, or Air...

That was helpful. Its kind hard compairing logs to a B&W palm.

If you have a 95 ECU I would say the DSMLink is better then the E-Manage. But if you don't I would purchase an E-manage also you can get a complete e-manage setup for less than $425 with all the harnesses.Check out the Yahoo Groups they have guys who make the support cables for $40.00 and...

I have an HP Omnibook 4100 running 98SE 128MB built in Com1 set to defaults. I also have both Tunerstien and DSMTuner. DSM tuner connects correctly and I can activate relays and all that good stuff but, as soon as I click log BAM! The Program crashes. DSM Tuner wont connect at all.I also...

If you can change your timing belt yourself and are willing to change it every 60k thats great and just buy the Mitsubishi belt. If you don't have the tools/knowledge/time to change your own belt. Spend the extra $$ and buy the belt that will last for 120k+

IF you don't have ABS you can. You just need to swap two pins in the wiring harness and your good to go.

Have them bring it to the mitsubishi dealer and check the endplay. The way I understand it is. 2G 7bolt the question is when it walks not if.Adam

Even mandrel bend 2.5" is good.

If you want to run that much boost you bouht the wrong turbo. Should have bought a 16G small or bigger. OEM gaskets are best.I happen to have CAPS so I can hook you up with the part numbers.Head Studs are MD146938 qty:2, MD005317 qty:7 Head Washers are MD050076 qty:2 MD041192...

Is it an AWD or FWD Tsi? To check the CV's grab the shaft and see if you can move it. If there is more then 1/8 of play those puppies are toast.

Isn't that low for 8.5:1 pistons? I get 145-150 on the stock 7.8:1 pistons in my six bolt.

Check the ignition fuse. Sounds like your ECU is cooked or not getting any power.

I'm not sure if this is relevant to the DSM community. But, here goes. The 2001+ Mazda Miata's had a problem with clutch shudder which was caused by defective friction material in the clutch disk not mating right with the pressure plate and flywheel. I have also heard Toyota and Honda have both...