Looks good. I just did an order, all went well.

Hi Kai,I was going to order off your site but it looks like the wording is off, I need an -8 feed and -6 return.I'm assuming that second line means -8 feed and -6 return, but it says -8 feed and -8 return, basically the same as the third.Thanks, Bryan

As a follow-up to my old post, I'm pretty sure I have the right number now, see picture. I got it from a kit marked MB861266, which is technically for awd auto or fwd manual I guess, but I believe this piece works for awd manual as well.

Maybe a silly question but I don't know much about 2gs and I didn't see it mentioned. Will these work on 1gs?Thanks, Bryan

Yeah they are the pro h beams. I'll be running GSC S2 cams, with adjustable cam gears. The little I've read on quench with the 4G is it really doesn't make much of a difference. Not sure how much truth is in this.

Hi, so my 1G 6 bolt 4g63 block is getting built. The machine shop had to take 0.010" off the block deck, it wasn't in the greatest condition obviously. I have a rebuilt 2G head with SS stock sized valves to go with it, it has had a minimal amount of material removed from its deck, a few thou...

The last in inventory in the states, yes. From my discussions with Jnz at that time more could have been imported, but weren't. My guess Mitsubishi Japan has a NOS inventory, and only exports to the US on paid orders, Mitsubishi does not have a stocking location for these things domestically...

They can still order cranks from Japan. I got mine from them 6 months back or so, they ordered two from Japan at that time, my guess is you got the other they received.

Why would you run a squirter with no washers?

Unfortunately with out looking at them in person, I wouldn't be able tell any specifics. I wouldn't think from looking at them in pics it would make a difference, but I've never held them in my hands and done a really detailed analysis. That rtm comment just stuck in my head from reading it in...

I have no idea if it is correct, but from RTM's site:https://www.rtmracing.com/xcart/product.php?productid=18871&cat=2591&page=1

I've done WTB ads, both here and on a few DSM Facebook sites. Even offering 50 bucks for one in good condition, which I think is more than fair. I have a line on one locally, but the guy is super busy with working out of town and a new kid, so unfortunately I have yet to get my hands on one...

Yeah unfortunately both kits are discontinued.

I have a 1GB TSI AWD, manual transmission. I have been searching for the fender splash shield that goes directly behind the side-mount intercooler. Mitsubishi only sold this splash shield as part of a kit, mb861272. Finding this kit new is damn near impossible best I can tell, and buying used...

If you select "colour not important" on RTM's site it drops to $130 USD :-) The reason energy suspension does not sell rear bushings for a 1G, I believe, is because these bushings really aren't supposed to be replaced. The fronts are easily pressed out. The rears are supposed to be a...

Why would you want anything else? Installation was pretty straight forward. Hardest part is getting the old one out, but that really has nothing to do with what you are replacing the old ones with. They fit tight, and seem solid. I haven't read a bad thing about them.

RTM, $150 USDhttps://www.rtmracing.com/xcart/product.php?productid=19530&cat=1779&page=1

This is called the fusible link, for a 1g, part number for non abs is MB542389.

As a followup to this thread, the FWD version (MB528623) trim line is not to convert it to the AWD version (MB528711), at least not on the one I bought, according to my DSM catalog PDF and fitment on my 1GB AWD. MB528623 has a trim line on it for MB889564, both FWD versions according to the...

Does anyone else with feals have a camber issue up front? I bought these a while back for a 1g chassis I'm working on and the camber adjustment looks like there is not much room to add negative camber. I have yet to have the car aligned waiting on an engine build so I am unsure.

Not sure I would consider a 2 or 3 business day delay in shipping as "turning into another DSMgraveyard".

Here you go.https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000GYLGU8/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I believe a recessed thread, is just that, threads that start deeper into the block, and not at the surface.http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/3_0-build.shtmlSee this page, scroll down to "HEAD BOLTS", they have a nice picture there. Though I've never done it, I would think the...

I'm pretty sure mine looked the same way before I cut it. It's not fused it's just sitting down in a recess.

Yes, it is supposed to go in much further. The bolt will line up with the tapered down section of that steering shaft. I had a hard time getting mine in as well when I had everything apart. Make sure you clean both parts and grease them up well, that should be all you need.

I've got this thing all nice and cleaned, put back together and ready for grease, but I need a new damn boot! :-(

I'm having a hell of a time finding CV boots for the rear outer joints for a 1G AWD, 4 bolt axles. Can anyone help me with a part number and where I can order from? RTM doesn't have anything listed for rear outers, same with JNZ. Rockauto, autozone, advanced, they all come up with nothing. I...

There is an EGR port on the flange, it is not integral into the casting like on a 1G. Noted in red on the attached pic.

I have an EVO 3 manifold, there is no MAP sensor location like on a 2g. My suggestion would be to remote mount the MAP sensor and run a vacuum line to it. There are a few vacuum ports on the manifold that could be used.

http://corvaircenter.com/phorum/read.php?1,474042,474113Seems it is an over heating indicator. Pretty common. Used for warranty purposes.

If only I had a running car and it wasn't 10 degrees F outside I would do just that.

I have neither of those issues as well. It looks like the Evo community uses an AOS for their street driven cars. I might hit them up if no one here has history with them.To maintain a good vacuum, thus limiting internal crankcase pressures, and not have to run a separate pump. If the net...

Yeah I wouldn't mind seeing data as well, one of the reasons I brought it up here. So far no luck, hopefully someone can chime in with some actual numbers.

I did not know oil vapor causes detonation, thanks for that. Do you any idea how much it lowers the effective octane rating of the fuel being used? I did some searching since your post and see much arguing over this, no real data.EDIT: Did my own research on this one. Not sure I really buy...

And from what I have read the job of the AOS is to actually remove the oil vapor from the air before allowing it to enter back into the system. Not my words, from Grimmspeed.

It looks like my searching for AOS was the wrong term to use. Seems the DSM community just uses sealed catch cans. I do like the idea of an AOS rerouting the oil back into the system, using coolant to heat the system to ensure no condensation. Whether that vacuum source be the intake...

Anyone ever try using an AOS (air oil separator) on a DSM? They are pretty common to the Subaru community. I am pretty surprised most just go with a catch can that vent with a small filter on a DSM. I always thought the vacuum was useful in helping to seal the bottom end. Any thoughts?

It's more than that. Some searching will help you out big time on this. You basically remove the seal internal to the rack gear that separates the right and left side of the fluid pressure. I removed all of my hydraulic lines on the rack as well, greased the rack and pinion gears well, and...

Anyone with a dual pump install, I have the full blown setup. -8 feed, -6 return. I am a little concerned because the return line returns at the top of the tank. There is no line inside returning the fuel to under the fuel surface. Primarily I am worried about aeration. I was thinking of...

It's just vht black paint, the epoxy stuff. I used the white grease that comes with ES bushings when I installed the subframe bushings as well.

yeah the rubber and inner sleeve were removed. Outer remained.

Not sure what you mean by notches. Here's mine all cleaned up and ready for the new bushing. I dont remember any notches on the sleeve that remained.

Here's a picture of the sub fuseable link and the black wire I have going to it. This wire stock was two 10 gauge wires going to the battery positive terminal.

I've been working on a battery relocation for my 1G DSM. So it might be a little different than the GVR4. I ended up ditching the stock main fusible link (the 3 or 4 fuses right on the positive battery terminal) for two Bussmann fuse modules. I just mounted these right to the frame where the...

The full blown dual pump setup looked too good to cover up. So I made a lexan piece as a cover, I used some grommet edging around the cutout from McMaster to seal it up (p/n 1120A711).

Thanks, yeah I'm pretty anal... LOLHere's some other pics of random parts I have restored recently on the car, the front sub frame, rear trailing arms, and rear lower control arms were actually blasted and powder coated over 10 years ago. Then the car sat untouched in my garage. I'm now...

I did end up drilling and tapping an m4x0.7 hole in the top. I then ran a small wire to the bolt that mounts the sensors to the hanger. I measured with a DMM after and everything looks good. I was very close to ordering the RTM dual pump hanger, I ended up with the full blown version basically...

I think the 1G design is actually a bit better than the 2G with this respect. The wires pass through the thick part of the hanger, the amount of RTV they use to fill this cavity must be pretty significant, much more than the 2G version, where the wires only pass through the thin section. But...

I included a really detailed list of parts and part numbers on my "specs and mods" tab. They are EBC rotors, both front and rear. Fronts are from an older mustang cobra upgrade kit RTM sells, the rears are stock sized as I really couldn't find anything that was a simple bolt on upgrade. Since...

We must have been twins separated at birth... lol. I have similar goals for right now, ≈500 whp is my first stage on E85, hopefully by the end of next summer I will have the motor and transmission installed with an ECM link. Thanks for the kind words, will keep on trucking.....slowly!