It'll drain the battery, since i'm assuming they run even with the car off. You can always run a wire into the dash with a toggle switch on it. I'm sure there's a better way, but this is the "easiest" i can think of.
scrap this thread, the guy is convinced it's the solenoid wire and refuses to budge. Don't feel like picking up a car that needs trans work. besides, i've got another offer for a 1g tsi awd with big 16g, wally 255, GM MAF, maf-t, autometer gauge setup, big fmic, etc etc etc that i'm going to...
gotcha, i'm just hoping that the transmission isn't garbage, even though it got a fresh rebuild 2 months ago. the solenoid pack is $155 at O'Riellys in stock now.
So, i'm looking at purchasing a stock unmolested 98 GST Auto with 140K on the clock. It'll have to be towed and is about 80 miles from my house.The owner says the trans was freshly rebuilt, but the shop that did it crushed one of the solenoid wires and it is now grounding out to the case...
you're gonna have to pull the engine to see how much damage it did before determining that. the valves are more than likely trashed, and it might've also damaged the pistons when they made contact. it's also good to TRY and find out the cause, but i'm gonna guess possibly the balance shaft belt...
nice, I thought only newer ones did...i'm not a fan of OEM stereos, because I run 2 amps on my setups...1 for component(door/dash speakers and tweeters) and 1 for subs, so I just pull the OEM stereos out and sell them.
but, judging from your post in the other thread, if you're putting in an OEM head unit from a Galant, the head unit will have that connector on it to be able to use the stock amp, and WOULD require a adapter or converter in order to use the OEM head unit with any OTHER amp that isn't the OEM one.
stock amp would be useless to you, it connects via a proprietary connector, rather than the RCA that your head unit(and any other aftermarket head unit, for that matter) will output.
a lot of OEM head units are locked when removed from the original car, and will need the unlock code that's usually provided with it, granted you have the paperwork.just curious, why not just get a cheap aftermarket one? best buy has a nice Pioneer on sale for $50 right now
.....why does it seem to me like it'd be much easier to just get a license rather then be stopped by every cop you see and get hassled because you have no plate?
save up and get DSMLink instead, you'll be happy. You won't be needing a FMIC until you upgrade that turbo, just keep it stock until you can afford the whole package necessary, it'll help in the long run. I'm not trying to flame you or anything, btw. Just offering advice that going for the...
getting a maft and gm maf just to vent your BOV was a waste of money, you'll need to properly set up the maft to run correctly.14b you don't even need a front mount, and won't get you to that 350hp you want...and $250 will get you maybe 1/2 the cost of JUST the intercooler, no piping...
depends on your maturity level. a 15yr old could daily a 400whp car without problems, but if you don't have the maturity level to realize your car CAN get you into a lot of trouble, you're gonna have a bad time. just don't pull off everywhere with the gas floored, bangin gears and you'll be good.
either one COULD experience failure, but if you're not experienced with building motors, i'd pick up his built motor. it's lasted 10K so it's at least decent.and age doesn't really factor in, unless he's like 14...haha...21 is plenty of time to build up good experience.
the 5.7L variant, whichever it is...idk i'm a import kinda guy, not domestics...hence the reason I don't have the truck anymore, and drive a bimmer now. lol.
yeah, its just a K&N Intake though....since K&N don't make turbos, I actually bought the car but he never took the ad down haha.I'm guessing the "kick like hell" was VANOS?