no, it's just a vacuum line manifold. it could be for cruise control only, but I can't remember because this was so long ago. You either have a manifold or not.
You have two options here,
a- take all the vacuum lines off the T and maneuver all that crap out of there. From what I remember, the throttle cable is in the way. The hoses are also stuck on the t really good. This is only if you're trying to salvage the vacuum line to put it back on one dayb-...
Yo, Did you get this resolved? I have a 95 and I needed that wire connected to the tatrix 1.3 cable. Sometime it won't connect and I have to disconnect the negative battery cable on my car and reconnect it, I think the battery is toast.. Anyways that seems to the bulk of my problems when I try...
Did you take the sending line off the rail and test flow? Did you clean out everything extremely well? Take return line off and check return flow there as well. How did you clean the gunk out of the injectors? If have good flow pre afpr and post afpr the injectors might be stuck open or closed...
Soldered in some 2gb talon fog light chassis plugs. Installed 2gb talon fogs :) Tried to start car, but starter wouldn't turn... jumper to starter and it runs.. yay.
Where are you getting the fuel pressure reading from? You say dsmlink, but that doesn't say much and your profile only shows sx afpr. Injectors might be clogged; E85 (from what I've read) does a number to the fuel system after it is first introduced. Did you try starter fluid to keep it running...
To buhay6's point, what is the STFT showing in your log? What is the wideband reading out? I can't open it because I use evo scan which output an excel file...You can unplug your injectors and with the help of a friend try to start the car while spraying starter fluid.. if it runs or stumbles...
I don't think your capability is limited with either setup; It's simply using a system design specifically for DSM's or more of an open source (evo's, wrx, etc.) The "gui" (graphical user interface) is what you see in the program. It's the visual aspect of the software, the buttons you push...
Rebuilt the throttle body, boost leak test is good. Unfortunately I noticed my clutch was pre-loaded from the previous owner... oh well it needs an act 2600 anyways... time to order more parts ...
I have an Evo 8 ecu and ecu flash. It's 1/4 the cost, you have support on here and from the evo guys if needed. Personally I didn't want to spend a ton of money on an old ecu. I've heard link is easier, but wasn't worth the extra $400 to me.
If fuel pressure looks good in your log (the whole time) the pump is probably still running. Check spark (plugs could be getting wet), check fuel (spray starter fluid), check compression.
If you're looking for a new intercooler, it's going to be near impossible to find an upgraded smic. I am going for the stock look as well. I just recently bought a used supra smic, fabricated a top tank, and welded one of the stock 2g smic brackets on it. I wouldn't recommend doing the supra...
That's odd you didn't determine your BOV leaking during the boost leak test. Is the BOV recirculating into the intake or venting to atmosphere? What's the wideband doing when it tries to stall? Also might need a BISS screw adjustment.
Nice car! Should have put a video camera in your car before transport. I bet your cousin was mashing that gas pedal like a mother when hit boost with a giant grin on his face...
Run that bad boy. You can dremel off some of the rust with a wire wheel attachment, but I wouldn't take off the rusted shaft nut. You might end up damaging the shaft and then would need to buy a new one and a rebuilt kit.
A new handle won't fix a misaligned or bent linkage though. With the door panel off pull up on the door handle and make sure you have good tension. Shine a flash light in there and see if anything looks broken. With the door open you can test the release mechanism by using a screwdriver while...
Installed Supra SMIC with custom end tank. Installed door handle lol. Redoing headliner fabric. Plasti dipping the hell out of that stupid fiberglass crash bar (every time I work on the front of my car I itch like crazy). Going to rewire 255 and 2gb talon fog lights in today ;)
I forgot to come back and comment.. It was the injectors. Dropped some 560cc evo injectors in and everything seems to be working great. Just got done welding an end tank on a supra smic and putting in my 2bg talon fog lights.Also dropped in a holset actuator, planning on ~20psi and worried...
Thanks Melbowski for responding. I know I'm close, just need some guidance.
Something to consider - My AFR gauge and values when logging were off (something to sort next time)
Close to the same at ~10afr but the actual gauge seemed about ~.5afr's higher than logger around ~12afr
I used...
I am also willing to log some data and post that up here if that helps :/What scalings should I use?
What should I log?
afr, o2-v, STFT, MAF Hz, RPM, Timing, LTFT's, coolant temp, battery-vThanks again!
I'm struggling with this Evo 8 ECU in my 2g... If anyone has the time please check out my thread and help me out :)http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/evo-8-ecu-running-rich.485560/
The car only ran well with stock ECU and Injectors. I bought/installed the afpr after I cleaned everything up and put it back together. The gauge reads ~38psi at idle hooked up to intake manifold.The link you provided show values without the MAF adder (+64).To get the values correct from the...
I used values from here http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/evo8-ecu-tuners-lend-me-your-ears.428639/#post-153392560I think those should be good, the image I showed on previous post was with different units.
Oh where to begin ...Bought my 95 talon about a year ago and have done all the maintenance I can reasonably think of before upgrading. I don't drive it much (probably 200 miles in the last year)
Compression ~180 across the board
Maintenance:
Belts, pulleys, tensioner, oilBefore upgrading its...
When you save the .bin you MUST add .bin at the end of the file name you're saving. I ran into this same issue. I'm using an Evo 8 ecu so I can't help you with the other stuff. Good luck!
Thanks. I'll look into the check valve and change the pic if needed. I will clean it up a little and take suggestions on changes. Not sure about the tech article. Is that something I do or moderator?
This thread was created to walk through the emissions removal on a 95-96 2g dsm. After reading some of the comments posted on the "How To's" it was apparent that some people are more visual learners rather than reading to one picture/diagram. I pulled my emissions last night and took some...
I guess I can make one.... starting tonight on it. I'll take pictures and hopefully be able to create a walk through.:DAnd I'm done. I took some pictures. I'll post something soon.
Update -
The car idles at 10.5 a/f ... I think my stock fpr is getting overrun by the 255. It will lean out up to 13 while driving. Going to park it until I buy a afpr with gauge... sigh. I would put the stock fuel pump back in, but my 16g has pretty bad boost creep on stock wg pressure.
CEL issues are gone. I honestly have no idea why it was doing that.In fact, before the first flash the CEL stayed on for ~15s (long I know) after batt dis/rec.Now it goes off without having to batt dis/rec and within ~5s. Also, no relay chatter.Thanks for the tip on the injectors...
I'm just starting too. 95 tsi awd, evo 8 ecu, 550 injectorsI downloaded this hex 96530006 - EvoEcu
disabled immobilizer and swapped coils 1&2 3&4 (inverted cas)she fired right up!Changing maf settings to what is listed above.What about injectors? I can only get it changed to 552...