thats what im saying man ill let you know haha im gonna buy it tonight.:pray:

theres this website i found that has some little gadgets i need and the price was so amazing i figured id let the fellow dsmers knowwebsite is: DealeXtreme - Cool Gadgets at the Right Price - DX Free Shipping Worldwidehere are the things i bought and prices:

THE GUY ABOVE ME SNIFFS BICYCLE SEATS :applause:

you guys still meeting? id like to bring the 1g by !

when you get your SAFC you just compensate for the injectors on the fuel map with a wideband. Or save for link. either way fmu is out of the picture

Yup with these cars the first thing you have to look for is a boost leak. If you want more boost get a manual boost controller and turn it up just a little maybe 13-14 lbsKeep your bov recirculated and don't get that controller until you are sure if no leaks. Getting some ngk spark plugs and...

Alright so im back in business. I hooked up the correct firing order with new plugs / wires.and guess what?yeah Im back to 15 lbs of boost with no problem :rocks:power loss issue : resolved :thumb:

I have stock fpr vacuum is working and I'm still waiting on the BLtester to come in the mailIll update this thread once I have done it in case anyone with similar problems wants to know

I have a friend who can weld it for me to save that $$$And I have the stock 1g bov (crushed)

understandably, but im just gonna mod my current ALLUMINUM one thanks anyways man:thumb:

could they possibly be the source of my problems? OMG

Heck, ill buy it for 20! otherwise ill just mod my current one because its nicer

thats definitely one way to do it. I guess thats a good Plan B if nothing else turns up. Also i wont get the translator because the bov noise is too loud to me.

sounds good thanks doc:thumb:i heard the napa wires are crap though

Alright so upon recent discovery, i realized my BOV isn't recirculated. pretty flamboyant right?Anyways im tired of my car sneezing every time i finish accelerating so im going to hook it up, the problem is, my cold air intake doesnt have a fitting for it.So here is my question: how can i...

yeah before the mechanic i was pullin pretty hard with this compression, so if anything ill have to fix this in the long term, definitely something ill keep in the back of my headcame with the autozone replacement valve cover lolhopefully not, i dont think so because of the pre-mechanic...

Ill replace sparkplugs and post results.update: heres the wires the mechanic put on, they say : double silicone, ultimate heat protection, 7mm, MADE IN USA

I had a compression test done before the mechanic and the results were 120 120 90 150How bad of a problem am I looking at here?! This is worrying me nowOMGAnd by the way the mechanic did replace my plug wires with some unknown type perhaps those aren't up to par. He cleaned the plugs they...

definitely the camshafts my bad. the ones with the gears driven by the timing belt

i would say check plugs / wires because if your guages are still working properly when you lose power, its not the battery... but it sounds electrical.

crankshafts were 2 "clicks" off and not set correctly so they aligned it. resealed the cranks and then it ran much betterof course not including this boost issue

you guys i just took my car to a shop and had a ton of work done on it.I got my timing fixed completely, manifold helicoiled, oil leaks fixed, fluids replaced, new valve cover, gaskets, belts etc.MY CAR HAS LOST MOST OF ITS POWER :banghead:i noticed how it drives incredibly smooth...

well there is no hose connected there so im pretty sure its atmosphere vented. Theres just a little vacuum line going to the IM but thats not the hose yall are talking aboutonce again you have all been a great help thank you!!

So basically to make this nice and short, id like to know if my BOV is recirculated or vented to atmosphere. what is the PHYSICAL difference (i know what the two mean just not what they look like)my bov is pretty loud (stock 1G) so i was wondering if maybe the previous owner might not have...

yeah thats what i figured /:hopefully a tranny shop doesnt give me an outrageous quote. Maybe i should get a new tranny off of classifieds

My second gear grinds but not when i first start driving!literally its perfectly fine for about 5 minutes of driving then i have to wait for the engine to rev down from 1st to second gear so it doesnt grind as hardIts so annoying (it grinds my gears)is there a reason it doesnt do it...

its pretty clean, i didnt even notice it was the nipple at first actually. im just gonna saw the split end off and hook up the hose.

so i was going to install a MBC and saw that the j pipe coming out of the turbo has a nipple on it but it was forced shut. like somebody smashed the ends together for some reason. I was going to run the MBC like this:Jpipe -> MBC -> WastegateMy current setup is like this:BOV -> T ->...

okay sounds pretty similar to tapping the hole. And the thing is, previous owner already retapped/helicoiled the holes so i dont know how much extra room i have to play with. The holes are way bigger than the stock stud size.the top left is broken off, bottom left stripped and mid bottom...

never heard of that.What is it? 2 studs are stripped and the other is broken off in the block, by the way so its kind of important to get it done right i have exhaust/boost leaks right at the headers!!

previous owner stripped the header bolts and i need to re-tap them. I have a 2G exhaust manifold and i was just wondering if anyone knows how much room i have to play with. im re-drilling the threads in the headers as well as the block itself. I obviously dont want to damage the head, because...

no i took the readings one at a timeThanks that's good info

guys please help i ran a compression test and they are as follows:120 120 90 150a friend on another post recommended a leak down test, i dont know what this is what can you guys recommend?

oh crap i dont mean to jack your post but i just got a compression test done and is as follows120 120 90 150this must be bad shall i post a new post ?

This happened to me almost exact same problem except it was holding 2k rpms but I loosened the throttle cable just a touch and totally fixed the problem.

okay ill have a regular mechanic see if he can find a place to put it. but i doubt it will fit. i was kind of hoping somebody had a non a?c solution

just to let you know the new clutch works like a charm thanks!:D

id have to agree with this. Do you even have a MBC?

don't have air conditioningi live in Vegaswindows don't worki need a solution besides just getting air conditioning because i no longer have room for it. fans? SWAMP COOLER? any ideas fellow geniuses?P.S. windows getting fixed soon but still wont be enough for 100+ degree heat

there should be no 'open' lines going from either side of the controller.can you elaborate about the hole more? is it a rip or an extra coupling from the spacer?

hmm never thought of that but it makes sense because it feels like the clutch sticks a little bit. ill replace and report back

so i have a 90 tsi AWD and it seems that in 3rd gear the engine will rev really high because its boosting and then the car doesnt "pickup" What i mean by this is that i have to let off the gas and accellerate again to actually get the engine to engage properly. This happens mostly when...

thanks; ill check it out. :thumb:

:talon:It all began in 23 years ago, when a certain someone with a decently apportioned budget decided that they shall be one of the first to embark on a new style of motor vehicle-ing. That this someone will spend the 16,000 MSRP on a 'new'(lol) 1990 Eagle Talon Tsi AWD. Perhaps make...