I realize this is an old thread, but I actually just found it as I was unlucky enough to have my rear bump stops disintegrate on me.The part number is Gabriel: 143064Incidentally, that is also the part number Autozone uses under their house brand, Duralast. It is referred to as a "Strut...

Since most auto parts do not have the 1g dsm heater hose parts in stock, I had to come up with an alternative that was more readily available and figured I would share it with people here.Dayco: #E80402I had to cut a little off both ends deeding on which I used it for, but it can be used for...

Update:The problem hasn't shown itself in about a week so I'm guessing it was just an anomaly or some bad gas. Will update once I have time to check sensors and ECU.Update 6/4: The problem only occurs after the car is restarted after having been driven. Leaning towards an electronic part...

Update:I haven't had a chance to check those two suggestions out yet. At this point in the morning the problem never occurs. During the day and upon hot restarts the problem is more likely to occur. No more check engine light but there is hesitation and stumbling/searching idle. It feels...

I checked connection to make sure the tps was plugged in. I also checked the maf connection.I also have mine spliced into pin 4 on the ECU, but as I said, DSMLink should be simulating the narrowband so it shouldn't matter. I will check the connection and continuity at the maf and tps tonight...

I do not have speed density. It's the stock 1g maf. It seems odd that all those things would go out all at once...

As I was driving the other day my 1g randomly started to hesitate and my Wideband O2 sensor gauge read that the car was leaning out under conditions where it shouldn't have been.I noticed the check engine light come on and as I came to a stop, the car stumbled, tried to idle, and died. But...

The one with grammar and sentence structure?

I, too, know the pain of trying to walk the line between helpful and sarcastic a-hole lol.

Glad you got it figured out.Before I finished reading I was actually going to mention that you should check the timing belt area. 60k is around the service interval for a t-belt, but since it didn't make it there, I would definitely call and scream at them. Good luck.Also, in the future...

This thread should help.JDM Trans - c51ph Help! | Galant VR-4 > Technical Discussions | GalantVR-4.org Mitsubishi Galant VR4 ForumSorry, no double synchros or other cool stuff lol. It's basically just a 90 dsm trans.If you are putting it in your 93, then yes, you would need his, or any...

Is it coming from the Engine? You could have bent valves in the head if the belt failed prior to replacing it?If you had the work done at a shop, you will definitely want to take it back to them and complain before it gets worse.

When you set your base fuel pressure, the vacuum port is disconnected right?How do you know what the fuel pressure is when you are boosting. Do you have a gauge in cabin?If it's just sitting there in neutral, revving the engine is not going to build boost. Turbos only build boost when...

Put it on and find out.Most likely...no

Did you put a scanner on the car? If not, do that. Just because the check engine light isn't on, doesn't mean it doesn't have codes stored.I haven't read through the Chiltons, but the numbers in that thread came from the factory service manual and I would do the test according them over the...

I am fairly certain the 2.0 and 1.8 fans are different. The 2.0 non turbo and 2.0 turbo fans are the same, but the radiators are different. Turbo radiator is larger.

Good call. I am not sure why I thought he wanted an auto lol.This thread should help:http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/420a-drivetrain-tech/362805-neon-trany-420a-dsm.html

You could wire them together. Or you could just remove one of the A/C fuses (I forget which one) and then when you turn on the A/C button the fan will come on but not the A/C system.

From what I remember, you basically just grip them tight and pull while twisting while being careful not to break them. You should have paid the extra and it would have come with new ones already installed lol.Edit: I assume that you did take the screws off first, right?

Anti-Lag?

You're running the stock smic on a 16g at 25psi and wondering why you're getting knock? I'm not trying to be a dick here, but I'm surprised you haven't blown that engine. That thing probably heat soaks before you are done with 1st gear.It's time to turn the boost down to 14-15psi until you...

Short Answer: It will be fine.Long Answer: The turbo oil filter should be larger than the N/T. Anyway, if it is good enough for a turbo car it will be MORE than good enough for a non-turbo.Bosch Oil Filter:95 n/t : 3402 95 Turbo: 3323

What in the world are you trying to ask?

Why did you replace the injectors for lager ones? If it was for more power or something, you are wasting your time and your car will run worse and use more fuel now more than likely.No, there is no point in upgrading the MAF on a non-turbo.Tech Guide: 1G 4G63 N/T Upgrades - DSMtuners -...

Most of those options are Manual Transmissions, and unless I am missing something, the only two autos look to be more expensive than the shop's rebuild quote...What exactly are you asking and/or looking for here?

Why did you do the key dance? You have OBDII. Go rent a scanner from any auto parts store and find out what the code is. If the scanner can't connect, then the ECU is to blame. I would also pull it out and check it for damage.You numbers on the CPS seem off. Check it according to these...

Have you checked to make sure the calipers and parking break are fully disengaging?

It would perform exactly like the 1g rear koni before it got discontinued?A shorter shock would also allow the car to be lowered to a greater degree without risking damage, but that shouldn't matter on the rear.

Did you pull a fan from a 1g with the 2.0? It should just bolt to the radiator. 2 bolts on top and 1 on the bottom.There should also be a plug for it already by the driver side headlight. I am, of course, assuming that the fan that isn't there is the a/c driver's side fan.

The only benefit (for you) would be being able to adjust your base timing. More info can be found here:RRE InstructionsMost others do it during a 6-bolt swap to avoid machine work and other annoyances.

The part number is different on RockAuto.com, at least for ACDelco and Moog. Moog actually lists options for Left vs Right for the Manual as well.More Information for ACDELCO 45A0479If you want to see the full list, you have to search for a 1990 Mitsubishi Eclipse 1.8L (searching for an...

I am merely stating the reasons why I don't value your opinion. Also, it is a site rule that you use proper grammar and punctuation, so if you won't do it to not sound ignorant, do it because of that.Your hose argument is ridiculous. Comparing a regular hose to a pressure washer is apples to...

If only there were some other choice besides rich or lean...

You are not sure if what I said was true, but a quick google search reveals that I was...do you read what you post?I'm sure your "backyard mechanic" friends did a whole bunch of research before coming to the conclusion that removing the thermostat is a good idea, he said with heavy sarcasm...

You can install the AFPR and Walbro without issues, but the 550cc injectors would cause you to run rich without some sort of tuning device.One way to offset that temporarily would be to lower your base fuel pressure with your AFPR to lower than the stock 42 psi (with vacuum line disconnected)...

That's mostly true, but a thermostat also serves as a restriction to impede coolant flow and keep coolant in the radiator longer, thus allowing the coolant enough time to dissipate enough heat. Without that restriction there, the coolant will flow through the radiator without having that heat...

Put the thermostat back in. Without a thermostat the car is guaranteed to overheat. Go buy a Stant Superstat for about $8. One less maintenance item to do later. Just get the stock temp rating which I believe is 195 on a 420a.

If everything was working before you took it apart, and now it's not, the chances of the sensors suddenly being bad is unlikely. The most likely case is that something didn't get plugged back in.The EGR Vacuum Line being unplugged is the cause of your idle issue. It won't affect drive...

You need to make sure the wires to the TPS, CAS, and MAP sensor are intact and verify that the broken piece is not from them.2GNT.com - Sensor_locationsIt would really help if you could figure out what you broke though.

You try to help a guy out by teaching him to fish, but he just wants to eat for a day.

No, you aren't.Your question is answered in the posted thread.Try reading more than the just the first page. Or, better yet, searching in the posted thread.

Glad you got it figured out!

It could have also be that when you use the P port you have to loop the line back around to the driver side, where as when you use the FPR lines, it is basically a straight shot?Perhaps that could account for the differences?My TB gasket also could have been blocking the port. I didn't...

It does see boost/vaccum, but keep in mind that:1: It's off the throttle body so it is technically a secondary source that may or may not be less accurate than something plugged directly into a primary source (the intake manifold)2: The opening (entrance) for the port at the throttle body is...

First off code P0731 is for an incorrect 1st gear ratio. That code was probably caused by the lack of fluid in the transmission. It should clear after about 200 miles of driving with the correct fluid amount. If it hasn't, then that's another issue entirely.Anyway, my money is on the O/D...

Happy to help.I have not dealt with the electronic gauges before, but I would still be surprised if it's working normally but just doesn't read past 7 psi. Doesn't seem likely.Where you have the gauge tapped into can also affect readings.Don't ever T into the BOV line. The best and most...

You don't have it set in "Narrowband Simulation" do you?On the back of the gauge, the rotary knob should be set to P0 for logging purposes to ECMlink. If it is set to P3 or P4, that will cause it to send a 0-1V signal, which sounds like the problem you are having.

Did you read through the whole thread and then on to this link?aemwb [ECMTuning - wiki]

connectionproblem [ECMTuning - wiki]

GVR4 ABS proportioning valve question? | Galant VR-4 > General VR4 Discussions | GalantVR-4.org Mitsubishi Galant VR4 Forum"You can retain the factory valve if you block off the extra lines for the abs. It's not pretty, but will work. Why do you want to keep such a high front brake bias? You...