Well it won't be modded at all, I'll be spending all my money on the DSM, and I've promised i won't touch the new DD...unless it needs a repair }:) But I've been thinking about the Mazdaspeed 6 from 06-07, Turbo, AWD, four doors, supposed to be safe and reliable. Anyone have any experience with one?

Typhoons and syclones are super cool I had no idea they even existed, they remind me of the Isuzu Impulse RS, or that weird super fiesta from the early 90's. Seems like that was a really experimental time for cars.

Ideally I am looking for less than 10,000; I can spend more, but I'd like to spend less so that any extra can be put into my DSM build. Right now I am thinking a WRX because I don't think I can find an STI in my price range. Anyone have any suggestions on where to look for cars other than...

So I'm going to retire my current DSM as my DD and move her to full project status...finally! But I need to get a reliable car for my DD. I haven't really looked around much yet and am looking for recommendations. These are the criteria so far: 1.) Reliable 2.) Four-door, or hatch something I...

Okay the battery did need to be replaced. I'm taking the alternator in to be tested as soon as I get back in town. I'll let you guys know what happened next weekend when I am back. Thanks so much for all the replies.

I have been having a problem with parasitic drain from the electrical system for months. It has been running fine as long as I drive it everyday, and when I go out of town or don't drive it for a few days I stick a maintainer on it and it works well. However today was a little different.I...

What glyptal are you using? why?

Holy Crap man! Congrats! What tranny are you running? Ridiculous custom dogbox?

What did you do to lower the peak pressure? I searched but didn't find anything on what was done or how to do it.

So its been a little bit have you gotten any further on this? I should be picking up a shell for my upcoming project and I'm plotting out my roadmap :rocks:

So what are you using to turn all that rubber? I think i remember reading that the stock rack has trouble with the super wide tires.

Cooling the intake charge with the AC seems a bit difficult to me especially when you can just buy a kit: CryO2 Intercooler Sprayer Kit 080108 | Purchase DEI, CryO2, Ny-Trex, Boom Mat & SPA Turbo Products | Design Engineering, Inc. - Thermal Performance ProductsThe waste of power he is...

Have you gotten any further with this? I curious to see how you did with actuating the valve.

Does anyone know for sure what BTU the stock compressor is? I've been curious about electric AC for a while but none of the 12Vdc compressors look up to the challenge of actually cooling the car. If I'm not mistaken that compressor can run on either 12 or 24 Vdc and thats what the 2 lines are...

Here is some good general info on the EMS: www.ka-t.org :: View topic - AEM EMS Tuning TipsHeres a good post on idle: *How to setup idle for AEM ECU* - evolutionm.netthis one has got some good info and links in it: General Tuning Guide Lines for Turbo Applications.

what about this: Steel Spring Shop Assortment - 200 Springs in 20 Sizes/Styles - Amazon.com probably more than you'll ever need but its kinda inexpensive.

Mine started the squeaking on cold start due to oil getting on the pulley/belt when my dipstick shot out. Might want to clan the pulley and change the belt. Worked on my first DSM :)

Mine was doing that with a bad o2 sensor, the engine was trying to compensate the wrong way because it was reporting to the ECU wrong. Are your mods up to date? Because if you've done anything else to the car it might be something different.

Sounds like it might be a leaky BOV, and as long at it recircs to somewhere behind the MAF you should be okay.

Have you gone through to make sure there are no leaks at the TB elbow and new UICP? My gut says a part is moving and so its leaky part of the time and not others. I'd also verify you got all the vacuum lines in the right places, anything you touched go over it again. I might even pull everything...

I'd think it might have blown a seal or something and spurted all the oil out. That would account for all the smoke and lack of oil. And also potentially why the motor froze.

Could you post a pic of what you need the correct wiring for? I'm sure where exactly you are asking about.

If you are just chopping off the muffler section and welding up the new one then anything with a 3" inlet should work. I found that I used a resonating chamber in my exhaust and it took out the highs and smoothed the mids and lows, It's quieter but 3" allows a lot of noise to come rolling down...

This guide looked helpful, haven't done it myself yet, still focusing on accident repair, but I was planning on that sometime in the future.http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-exterior-interior/274519-how-light-gauge-cluster-leds.html

AEM's capacitive discharge ignition, I ended up pulling it til I get the time to go fix the wiring properly right now I'm focused on the rear end damage from the asshat that hit me a few months ago.

Then definitely call JNZ, or if you can go ahead and bite the bullet and get some better ones from the Driveshaft shop, looked like they still carry stuff based on their website.

I second raxles! I couldn't find a diver side from for my first dsm to save my life sent it to them and was up and running again.

TO handle the amount of current the alternator is putting out, IIRC our cars come with a 90amp alt, so it would be to 8ga wires which handle up to 104 Amp without problems.Here is quick reference to wire: WIRE

To me I think the headlights, had something similar on my car with the C2DI the guy had wired a line that was supposed to go to switched 12V into a constant 12 so the caps in the C2DI were constantly pulling juice from the Battery even when the car was off. Anything after market is what I'd...

MY wiper cowl is screwed up I need a new one :/ That one looks awesome! What company did you get that from and how much?

The radiator cap is not super necessary I just like it. it's 16PSI as opposed to 14PSI stock, IIRC raising the pressure in a closed system by 1 PSI it translates to roughly 3 degree raise in the boiling point of the liquid :) so at 16PSI the coolant should reach boiling 48 degrees higher than an...

Does it sputter or cut completely? What RPM is it at when it dies?

On the radiator cap thing, I'd get a Stant 1.1 bar when you next replace. I get them off Amazon for less than 10 bucks stock is only 1 bar. With the startup thing it sound like there is some tuning needed in the start extra and the initial crank pulse tables.Its what I'm working on in my car...

Don't change anything, just check that these are all active and that the set temps are not insane. If you don't feel comfortable doing this to check then don't follow these directions.You can check your fan settings and make sure they are turning on and off at a good temp. I am working with...

I think you are on the right track with the clutch fork. Mine did the same thing to me, one of the ends of the fork snapped off and luckily got stuck in the rubber grommet so no damage to my fidanza flywheel. hope it is that simple for you too.

That is definitely related to Idle, but it's not always easy to figure out on our cars, these threads may help some. I definitely went through all of these steps when mine was acting wonky after my accident: Terry's Talon Troubleshooting Tips #3 - Fast Idle (aka. Idle Surge)Also this gives...

Thanks for that thread, I searched for sunroof but that didn't show up...guess I got impatient as I was looking through the results...doh!

MY sunroof has been acting wonky all winter and now that I may want to open it I figure I'd look into the problem. It works perfectly fine but grinds at the stops...so what I mean by that is when I touch the button once and the back pops up, it gets to position and then grinds/pops for another...

In that link I see under the automapping that it mentions you don't wan't 14.7 PSI across the board...I thought that was perfectly stoich and you would want that all the time. What reasons would you want it richer or leaner? I realize that is probably some basic stuff, could you recommend some...

Definitely agree on the possibility of a blown head gasket the, milky oil is a product of coolant getting mixed in.

Thanks for the link Chicken Patty. Prockish I am always up for more information, I'd love the site list :)

Have you considered the MAF being bad? easiest way to check it is if you have buddy with one you know is good and just swap it onto your car and see if that fixes the problem.

I actually haven't considered my tuning solution in a while, my mind was kind of made up for me as the EMS came with the car when I got her. I've never even looked at link v3, I only vaguely recall browsing through link v2 stuff before I had to get rid of my first DSM.

This stinks of a clutch problem of some kind to me. Have you checked for leaks on the master and slave cylinders? Or a tranny problem MT or AT?

I've got first gen EMS that came with my car when I got it. She currently drives with a SAFC but has lots of problems under boost and RPMS above 4-5000. I am very interested in learning to tune, I've found some guides online and been reading for a couple months, but I still haven't found...

Thanks for the quick reply. That seems like the most likely culprit as the spare tire well was crushed in in the accident.

I apologize for the crappy picture but I only had my cell to take the shot I had to put it into b/w just to get any detail on the lights :/ Anyway so a little bit a ago some jerk hit me from behind causing me to wreck and ran off, to top off that amazing moment my insurance company won't cover...