PM sent.

Is this happening with the new O2 sensor?

WTF...What would make the shaft spin if the car isn't in gear?

Addicted, with your mods (and especially if you get some cams) I would be disappointed to only be making 325 whp. My (much smaller) 16G took me to 300 awhp @ 17psi on pump gas. It's all about the tuning, though.

The ONLY thing keeping you below 400hp, right now, is your injectors and a good tune.

Take your tools. And maybe some new spark plugs and/or wires. Logger?

Glad to hear that you got it straightened out. You could probably dial in the tune closer to maximum potential by getting on a dyno, but it sounds like you're doing well.

True, but it wasn't clear from his post whether the reading was with the vacuum line disconnected. I ASSumed that, since he was messing around with the vacuum lines, the reading was with the vacuum line removed....or possibly a good MAF that has become disconnected. An intercooler pipe...

Turn your fuel pressure up.

:thumb:

It looks like you're getting a hesitation after 5000 (once you hit max airflow) and then again after 6200 (injectors maxed) on your second log. On the first log, you have the same dips in RPM, but they occur a bit later (5600 rpms and 6400 rpms, respectively). You still seem to need more fuel.

,,, OR you could do the seafoam treatment and then change your oil 50 miles sooner.

It might also be interesting/helpful to state what height that everyone's flywheel was stepped to. There may be a correlation between slipping/grabbing SPEC clutches and flywheel step height.

I'd like to know if that resolves your problem, if not simply for future reference :thumb: .

If there is too much fuel, and it's burning in the exhaust mani, that could raise your EGTs.

Looks like you could lean it out a bit. Since you seem to have better control of the fuel trims with the MAFT set for 450s, I'd leave it there and just tune with the SAFC.

What are your mods (update your profile)? Make sure that your MAS is plugged in. Boost leak test results?

Yeah, put a datalogger on it to see if the code from the CEL has been stored in the ECU. They don't always disappear when the CEL goes off.

But are you getting fuel at the injectors? Are the spark plugs wet (with gas) after all of the cranking, starting, dying, etc.?

Try bleeding the clutch line some more.

Sounds like a bad throw-out bearing. Or maybe a loose belt. It's hard to tell from your description.

Not to sound like an asshole, but even if the harness (you DID mean the harness on the MAS, right?) is good, you might have wired it incorrectly, or spliced the wires into the wrong ones on the car's wiring harness.

All of that stuff is in the MAS...TRIPLE check to make sure you wired the 2G MAS into it correctly (or the MAS is actually bad). Maybe also reset your ECU.

You really don't need the BPR8ES plugs, especially on the E16G turbo that your profile says you have. Those plugs are 2 "heat ranges" colder than stock. You'd be better with 7ES's or 6Es's, especially if you're not running high boost.

Pistons are different, but are the rods the same?

You need bigger injectors.

Really, it depends on how rusty everything currently is. Changing both of your front balljoints shouldn't take more than a couple of hours, especially if none of the parts are rusted/frozen on/in. If you DO have a lot of rusted and/or seized up parts, it will take longer, but still shouldn't...

Valvoline Durablend

That might be true for 2Gs, but it's wrong for 1Gs. Mine ran perfectly one day and then later that same day the coil pack was gone.

Do a boost leak test. Check to make sure that your MAS is plugged in.

What does your datalogger say is happening with fuel, timing, knock, etc?

Sell the AWD downpipe and use the money that you get for a FWD downpipe.

Have you checked your oil level, lately?

He already said he had new ones put in.

A bad ball joint is more likely to make a clunking sound, but bad tie rod ends can make noise too.

.610" to .612"

It's my understanding that ACT clutches require a step height that isn't the same as the stock step height. And many people get the ACT clutch together with the ACT flywheel, suggesting the the flywheel is stepped for the ACT clutch. The SPEC clutch requires a stock step height, as far as I know.

Maybe your valve cover has a small crack in it.

Also check your balljoints and tierod ends.

So it starts now, but idles roughly? Check for boost leaks.IAC=Idle Air Controller

Is it still running?

Did you find out what the problem was?

Lasers weren't available in AWD until 1992.What size injectors are you using to support the 16G? What are you using to control the fuel?

I'd go somewhere else for an alternator.

Check your turbo for shaft play...side-to-side AND in-and-out.

Got any pics of your setup?

Sounds a little like you might need new plugs and/or wires. Have you replaced them lately, and, if so, are the plugs gapped properly?

Maybe you've got a small boost leak that "closes up" once it gets heated up a bit. Something like a rubber connector on your intake/IC piping or even lower injector seals (my problem :mad: ).

Then you should be fine. Like everyone else is saying, you're in vacuum 90% of the time because you're only boosting 10% of the time.

What does the gauge read when the car is turned off?