It's possible, however the optimal size will depend on your engine build-up and management system.

Good work. :dsm:

Yeah, looks like the line is connected to a FP gauge sending unit. :thumb:

I doubt that the FAL fans have mounting points to the stock radiator. I have 2 12" FAL slimlines and I had to make custom brackets to fit my Fluidyne radiator. It wasn't hard to do...just took some creativity for a good fit.

If I remember correctly, you press the clock button until display flashes and then use the up and/or down arrow buttons to set time. Press clock button once again and you're done.

Hard to really say. This depends on a few factors like boost, airflow, knock, tuning, etc. Assuming your engine/clutch is in good mechanical condition, race gas should allow you to get more timing/less knock at higher boost levels than stock. This should result in more power, better times...

.028

It's all driver but I think you should be pretty close in the 1/4. Anything more than the 1/4 and the RX-7 will probably start walking on you.

Most probably you just need to get a rebuild kit for the clutch master cylinder. Check the bore of the cylinder and make sure it is not scored.

Are you using lugs with the correct thread/pitch? Don't overtorque. Anti-seize compound is your friend.

The Dejon intake should come with all the couplers and clamps. I take it you already have the 2g MAF plug as well? If not, you need that plug so you can splice the wires from the 1g harness.

Personally, I'd have the car aligned at a shop that specializes in coil-over setups. You have to take into account proper ride height along with all the other aspects of the alignment for optimal handling/performance.

simple green works great.

Once fuel rail is unbolted, just twist them off. Make sure that the orings are in good shape or new prior to reinstalling. Also, make sure the fuel rail spacers are intact.

Stock ones seem to work just fine

.028" would be ideal.

Yes, on NGKs, the higher the number the colder the range. You have the 1 range colder plug.

Low 16s off the bottle and low 15s on the bottle is my guess.

His number is 818-901-9757 :thumb:

Try C&A auto in San Fernanado Valley. Ask for Chai.

Unless you run racegas, 20psi is pushing it. Some 550s or 660s would be nice for pump gas.

If you don't have enough shock travel, you're going to hurt your shocks. Lowering too much will do this unless you have a coilover that will maintain correct travel.

Congrats! Looking good.

Catback, hence the name. Not header back.

http://www.rceng.com/

Not accurate enough.

Yes, stock injector O-rings will work. I would get them from the dealer though, unless they are recommended to be used with fuel.

Looking good! Congrats!

Yeah, as long as the clip you use is about the same size, it should work just fine. I had a similar problem along with the actual harness cracking on my 1G. I ended up buying some RC injector harnesses with the clips being built onto the harness. Much better than stock IMO...

I believe there is a recall for the lower ball joint on the 2Gs. Look into it. It might be free of charge.

If it leaks, it's no good. Why not have it pressure tested first?

Congrats, nice work. Love the color.

Not sure how accurate this is, but this might shed some light on what you're looking for:http://www.car-videos.com/performance/view.asp?id1=218&id2=0

M100, works great.

You should visit your local drag strip and get some times to see how fast you and your car are. This will give you a good indication of what cars you're comparable to. I'm guessing your car should be in the low/mid 15 sec range.

Your best bet is to get a used 4-bolt rear LSD with accompanying axles and mating flanges. This setup has well proven itself.

What free mods did you do? I would start with the obvious. Check for boost leaks.

It would be a good idea to kill power (disconnect battery) to the ecu before you unplug it.

Exhaust=yes Test Pipe=no

You need to do a boost leak test.

You can have the hole welded shut. However, it really shouldn't make a difference in tunability if that's what you're worried about.

You will most probably have to weld on a flange to use either BOV you speak of. If the Hahn pipe has a 1g style BOV flange, then you can get the Greddy BOV to work by simply drilling holes in the flange to fit.

The best, easiest thing you can do is trade in your car and use the loan to upgrade to a turbo DSM, especially if you have no clue of what you need and how much it's going to cost.

Do you have a wiring harness? If not, get one. Makes install plug and play. I believe you can get the wiring info at the HKS website, etc.

Oil

I have a Sony Clie sj33 and it wouldn't connect either. Mike from Digital Tuning told me that it wasn't compatible despite what it says on their site. The m100 is working fine however...

Now would be a good time to invest in a Haynes manual. It will give you all the torque specs you need.

:thumb:

You should be fine. Just reconnect it and reset your ecu.

300+ HP sounds about right with your setup, but a real dyno pull will give you real numbers. I would definately start tuning at a lower boost level than 1.4bar on 91 octane and go up from there if all is well on the datalogger.