Sounds like a plan to me. Is anyone running this setup?

Awhile ago I straight piped my 95 awd and it has been trowing check engine light. I got a new o2 and am going to install it outside of the exhaust stream to sens correctly but I don't know how far out to mount it. I used 2.5" exhaust tubing, has anyone successfully done this?

I read that testing is best it when it is warm but nothing about how to test it.

1992 n/a. When I have the key on and motor not running there is a clicking sound coming from below the throttle body. From what I can tell it is probably the idle speed control. Is it supposed to make a clicking sound? I've also have been having problems with the idle at cold starts and it won't...

This morning I looked it over closely and wound up going with a 2.5" straight off the flex pipe. Even with the a o2 sensor socket I managed to snap it off. Now I need to figure out where it unplugs. I'm not real excited about how it sounds. Too popy for me.

After I made the post I looked it up in rockauto and they list heated power mirror for $33, and non heated for $31.

My 95 was missing the drivers side mirror when I got it. Called local yard to find a replacement and they needed to know if it was heated. Since mine is missing how do tell What mirror I need?

How important is the flex pipe. I was just going to make the entire thing one solid piece of 3"

Since the pumps work I'd like to replace just the rubber grommets. They look pretty application specific. Reusing rubbers is never a good idea.

My washer fluid reservoir is leaking out of the rubber bushings that seal the pumps. Is this a common thing? Can I get new rubbers somewhere?

Back in the day I had a 2.5" glass pack right off the header out the side of the front bumper. Sounded pretty mean but this tsi has the intercooler piping in the way.

It seems like a few years ago I saw something like a dummy o2 sensor that put out a good exhaust signal. Does that exist and what is it called?

I'm thinking about putting in a straight 3" turbo back exhaust. Just wondering how it will affect the ecu. Will it throw a light if I put the o2 in the same place without a cat? Will there be enough back pressure or do turbo cars not need back pressure? What other problems will arise?

I have to replace the yolk and first section of drive shaft on my 95 awd. I can't find the parts local so it might be easier and cheaper to have one made. If I get one made why not make it full length. Get rid of some carriers.

I changed the maf sensor when I changed the air cleaner and it helped it idle. And changing the gas and filter could only help but what would make a stock ecu limit rev at 4500? It is like the ecu is in limp mode or something. But it is not sending codes.

When I got the car it had been setting for a few years with the head off. owner said new timing belt walked and bent exhaust valves. I got the car and bought a parts car with a top end. Put top end on. Fuel pump was bad so I changed it out with parts car tank and pump. After I had fuel pressure...

I put a new head and intake on 92 talon and got the timed 5 btc. Sorted out the fuel pressure problem. Now the car runs ok, little rough idle won't rev past 4500. It acts like it hitting the rev limiter. When it gets up to temp it wants to fall on it's face. Ecu isn't throwing codes. I have the...

I have a ecu in my parts car would I be wasting my time switching them?The only code being put out is fuel pump. When I put the parts car tank and pump in I looked the pump over and it looked good. It flows fuel. Is there a fuel pressure sensor that is not sensing fuel pressure?

I grounded the timing adjustment plug and adjusted the cas to 5 btc. motor still shuts off a couple seconds after starting. I also noticed a click under the dash right before it dies. Guess now I need to find out how to read trouble codes. I can't really find anything in the search about it...

I'm assuming the cas is the is the thing mounted to the end on the intake cam? When I put the new timing belt on I put a screwdriver in the back of the block to assure the oil pump was in correct position, the arrows on cams, pump and crank were right, rotated it 6 times everything matched up...

Something is telling the fuel pump to shut off. When I jump out the pump to force it on the car runs at higher idle and when driving only revs to 4500 or so. What would make computer kill pump?

I found a black and white wire by the - battery terminal and when power is put to it there is just a spark and no gas being pumped. Looks like I have a gas tank swap to do this morning. Can't wait to smell like bad gas all day.So I got the tanks switched out and everything hooked up. Try to...

My concern is that if gas is bad enough to eat the pump I probably don't want to pump it through the fuel filter.

I don't have access to any computer stuff. I usually work on classic cars and muscle cars this is all new to me other then the 87 crx si I had 10 years ago. So tomorrow I will change out my fuel tank with the good one in the parts car. I'm assuming the pump is in the tank so that should solve...

Is that causing the fuel pump to not work? Visually checked all fuses and they looked good.

I put a top end on a 91 talon that has been setting for a while. It turns over and gets spark. I unhooked the fuel rail supply and turned on ignition to see if fuel pumps and it doesn't. I put in 5 gallons of gas with stabill on top of what was already in there so there should be enough gas. I...

I'm lost?

The auto zone thing said 54 lbs? I should just fork out the $20 to get a book.

Just stock head bolts.

Tried a couple searches for the head bolt torque sequence for 1991 non turbo and came up with nothing. Anyone have a picture and sequence?

As far as I can tell the car is bone stock. I read somewhere on this forum that there was a factory recall on the drain plug leaking and causing problems such as the t-case running dry and blowing up. I'm wondering if I should contact a Mitsubishi dealer about it and try to get a replacement t-case.

This morning I put it on the lift and went through all of the gears with no load on the car and all of the gears worked well. So I shouldn't have to worry about the trans. So as far as the drive shaft Why does everyone say I have to replace it? Can't I just get new u-joints pressed in?

My next worry is that the clutch lever pushes in real easy and does not return. I blead the slave cylinder hoping that would fix it bud didn't really do anything.

So can I drive it to see if the trans is ok without the t-case?

When I got the car I was told it needed a new transmission so when I found out it just needed a t-case I was more then happy with my $500 car. Now that I have the t-case out can I drive the car under it's own power or will it make the trans blow up? It seems like the trans is all sealed up with...

I'm wondering if it did run dry and blow up it may have never had the service recall done and be covered under the recall for the leaking plug? It has obviously been leaking something for a long time the entire bottom of the motor and trans is covered with something.

The shaft coming out of the t-case has a lot of play in it. Is there supposed to be a bearing inside the front of the case as well as the tail housing?

I'll try to load some pics. Some forums make it difficult but I'll try to figure it out.

I'm new here and spent all morning searching and found nothing. I bought a 95 tsi awd and what I would call the tailhousing was in a bag on the back seat in pieces along with the drive shaft. I put the car on the lift and found what looked like a shaft with a big nut and something twisted off...