Hey man congrats on joining the dsm world. I haven't been on here in forever but I think I can answer a couple of your questions. First thing is that "second radiator". It's your condenser for the air conditioning. Secondly I see you said you have a wally225. If you know this for sure, do you...

Kinda late but did someone possibly update the fuel system to the later style return less system?

Another explanation is that the po got tired of looking at a cel and pulled the bulb out. Maybe he gutted the cat or something.

Get dohc 2.4 galant timing gears. Then all you have to do is line up the marks. There's no way to advance half a tooth with stock cam gears so I assume you got a pair of adjustables? I was following a few other posts about this subject. What pistons did you settle on?

Wouldn't it be easier and more beneficial to call them directly? Rather than asking and getting a plethora of answers. It may have been an oversight on their part or it may just be the way it is. They ought to know what they're selling. Pistons are always going to be smaller than the bore, if...

Im just curious what made you go with .040 overbore? Im not knocking anything, I'm just curious because I'm about to start the same build and everyone has told me to not bore that far as its pushing the limit of the cylinder walls.

I have 2 gearwrench brand and 1 snap on branded t/w. All three have to be sent in every four months for calibration. They've never been returned with a red tag saying they were out of wack even after I dropped one from the top of an Apache helicopter. We have to buy our own tools as contractors...

4k? You can do a lot with that. I would start off checking out the turbo. It is after all 14 years old. Overheating can be caused by so many things, but if it was fine all of the sudden I'd say a flush may be in order. The puff is likely from the turbo. The tick could a little piston slap, and...

But anyway. I've gotten some great info from this thread. I really do want to take a second and say that I really appreciate all of the advice and tolerance I've received here. I know it's all a dead horse that's continued to be beaten, but I'm glad you guys hung in there and wrote it out in...

Yes, you can use aftermarket 7-bolt 4g63 rods in a 4g64. You can get a set of Eagle rods for less than $350 on eBay. Click.As for what size pistons, I would wait until you have the block checked by a machinist. Then order the pistons and have them set the PTW clearance stated on the spec...

I just replaced a 14b that looked great on the cold side. No shaft play either. When I pulled the hot side off however I found carbon build up all over the wheel. The oil was leaking out of the weak seal whenever I boosted hard and then came off to stop. It didn't do when I first started it...

I think his comment was meant for me.I Realize what he and you are saying now. I don't know why but I was thinking he meant I was going to change the angle already on the 2.4.I see now what he was talking about. I may go with the forged rods if my plans for the car change midway through the...

http://www.members.shaw.ca/dsm.1000q/Engineprimer/1G/respack.htm this link has a full description and pictures of pretty much everything in the engine bay. Very cool link.

Yeah I got all that figured out. I decided to build a 2.4 so the thrust bearings for the old bloch are a non issue. Like I had said before Its just going to be way more than I want to spend on the old engine just to get it rebuilt stock, and I got a pretty good deal on a fresh 2.4 short block...

Ok im tracking here. I think i need to clarify because Ive gone back and forth so much on what I was doing that it has all beccome muddled. Im using a 2.4 motor out of a 97 spyder. Ill be putting my 2.0 dohc head on it, and going with the lower compression forged pistons at a stock or .020 over...

Ok you lost me. Not trying to sound argumentative so please bear with me. How would I be changing the rod angle? I'll be using the stock 64 block, and stock stroke on the crank. Same ol standard length rods. I'm just asking because I evidently have a lot more to learn. While I'm here I found...

Some awesome info from both of you. I can't wait to throw down on this build. It'll take a while but in the end I think I'll love it.

What about a 64 bottom end with the 63 head. I know its been done and I can get the bottom for 100? The only reason im considering this is really the price of the bottom end. I know ill have to get new pistons but I was going to need to anyway. My only real concern is the lack of oil squirters...

Bcause we all should listen to the hobo at the gas station parking lot.lol.Weall got better gas mileage before they started putting 10 and 15% ethanol in regular pump gas.

It's been a while since I messed with any autocross but I dont think they're legal in SCCA. There is a really cheap kit on e bay that uses co2 rather than water. Kinda always seemed like a scam to me. Good luck with it, if you can make it work well and show us some numbers I'm sure someone will...

Boost gauge and wide band should be at the top of your list if you don't have them already. Looks like you've already got the basic bolt on's covered.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-electrical-wiring/443700-installing-ingersoll-boost-control-solenoid.html disregard this sorry. I imagine you could depin the plug and fab something up so you could return it to stock if needed.

Top picture. 7 bolts holding the flywheel to the crank. That's what makes it a 7bolt. It has nothing at all to do with the amount of bolts holding the trans to the engine, or xfer case or anything else. Just those 7 bolts on the flywheel

Yes... Research ALOT! Lol

Check the suspect solenoid by applying 12v to it and see if it clicks. If not then its certainly your problem. Sounds like you're in limp in mode. Are you throwing any transmission codes.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-thread-graveyard/431615-6bolt-head-7-bolt-head.html This was the very first result bing popped up on the subject.

You may need to redo the timing. I did mine like 4 times before I got it right on. It probably got thrown off by turning one thing but not the others. Keep at it you'll get it.

Have you contacted the seller?

Im going to get a 2g block and save myself some time and headache with all the little stuff to make the 1g motor work in my 2g. I appreciate all the help. Its nice to have people to bounce ideas off of.

I offered you a suggestion on your other thread about this issue. How does your fluid look? Have you put any additives in it ie Lucas, Trans Dr, anything like that. Are you getting any codes. Is it going into limp mode? Youll only have third in limp in so it'll feel like youre not going anywhere...

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/drivetrain-tech/52263-non-turbo-vs-turbo-transmission.html Give this a read hope it helps in your decision.

Yeah please post a picture. Also are you using a manual of any kind ie Chiltons Haynes? They are pretty helpful.

Sounds like the throw out bearing. With the clutch pushed in, and sitting still nothing in your drivetrain is moving. It could be the clutch but either way youre gonna have to split the trans from the engine. Ive seen the buffer springs on the clutch plate work loose and fall out making all...

What is ridiculous tight? With everything set at zero mechanically the belt may seem a little loose. If you're sure it is all timed right spin it over by hand about 3 or 4 times and check belt deflection. If it is too loose you may need to preload the idler pulley a little more, if that's the...

Throw out bearing maybe?

I think the used cams I have are the culprit. My rocker arms are wayyyyyyy too loose. I can almost pull them out from under the cam when its not pressing down on them the cams say "hks" and "272" on either sideSounds like you answered your own question. There is a thread on here about the...

Drain flush,new filter. People often forget how important good trans fluid is. Does the fluid smell burnt or look brown? Not knocking anyone here but I've never had much luck on here when it comes to auto trans questions. May try the guys over at atdsm.com. Oh yeah forgot to ask. Does Illinois...

swap it with stock and sell me your motor im in the market! Nah keep it where it is. You are having trouble actuating your intercooler because you cant. Cyclone is just the intake manifold. Unless I'm crazy you cant turn your intercooler on and off. What makes you think you are having...

Congratulations you have a rare paddleboat anchor.Yay I feel so much better now! At least I have a core to give the junkyard lolOk I was tired and muddled when I posted. I have come to find out for certain that I have a 1g non turbo bottom end. Its toast so its getting replaced. I think...

Orielly said they had one for 2500. That was a reman long block. I don't know anything about them or the company that does the work but it seems like a reasonable price for a fresh ready to drop in motor. Who knows. This isn't gonna get done anytime soon, so at least for now I have a new yard...

I'm getting to that. I'll have a pic of the engine amd a vin as soon as possible. Just been busy with everything else life has to offer.

:rocks: Well like someone said there were in Europe. Ok the guy I bought the car from said he bought the engine from someone overseas. The engine has all the appropriate spots for sensors and such for a 2g. There are no oil squirters and the water pipe had to be swapped because it didn't have...

Thank you. Looking at it I'm basically going to have to start over with a bare block,and build it from there. I was just wondering if it was worth the time money and effort to rebuild it just to be a driver, or just get a decent used engine and run it stock and call it done.

No it's not a 420a. An early n/t 7 bolt maybe? But no I'm not retarded, its not a Chrysler motor.

So I found out I have a n/t 2g 7bolt. I pulled the engine because of a tick I suspected to be a knock. Really didn't sound that bad but I thought what the hell. I tore it down today and to my dismay I realized my pistons had shattered.(literally) in turn wiping out basically everything that...

Check the end play at the harmonic balancer. Sounds like its just a bad clutch.

Ok? Your fuel filter isn't in the tank. That's the pickup screen, you can't clean the stock filter. The filter is under the hood mounted to the fire wall. Just follow the fuel line down from the passenger side of the fuel rail.Since you don't seem to know where its at I'd suggest replacing it...

Awesome. Thanks for all the help.