Yeah I also noticed that once I swung the tensioner arm as far "up" as it would go, then torqued it to spec, it moved freely as I'd expected it. Guess it's due to the fact that I hadn't installed the auto tensioner yet and the arm was simply too far down.For tensioning the timing belt, I...

Thanks for the vid, it's a good one, seen it before.Let me rephrase my question. I removed my tensioner arm to replace my water pump. The arm sits on a large pivot and is held in with one bolt and a washer. I also installed a brand new timing belt tensioner and the grenade pin is still in...

Thanks guys, I'll leave it as is. Another quick question, I'm torquing up my timing belt tensioner pulley arm/bracket (not the pulley itself) and the torque spec says 16-17ft lbs I believe. But this seems really really tight, as in the arm no longer pivots on its shaft. When doing this job...

Ok, that makes sense, and the new one is currently installed that way. Then the VFAQ is wrong?

I have an early '95 and I'm in the middle of a timing belt job. I have the correct pulley, but I'm torn in deciding the correct placement of the lip side of this pulley (balance shaft tensioner pulley). The VFAQ notes that for '95, the pulley goes on the inside; however, the pulley that I...

Holy thread revival, batman! OMGAs an update, I have since put on an SRS turbo back exhaust and this wire no longer exists on my car.Good to know I'm not missing anything critical :)Actually, It's been so long since I've driven the car that I can't even remember if it was shocking...

I'd like a little more info on this subject as well. Not intending to thread-jack...Here is the link that is commonly posted for these check valves: US Plastic Corp.My question is, what SIZE does one need to order to fit the line?I ordered an OEM PCV valve ($6.99 from JNZ) as preventive...

Just a heads up: I'm currently installing a full SRS exhaust on my GSX as we speak and the SRS Downpipe (SRS-DP-MITECLGSX9599) is a CAT-DELETE downpipe. This pissed me off, as nowhere on their website or the eBay auctions mentions this. They don't even give an overall length, so there is NO...

LMGTFYIf you have other than stock turbo, search that instead. Most recommend not rebuilding the stock T25 as it's not worth it.

Are you trying to PAWN IT or fix it? Hope your potential buyers are aware of what is going on with the car...

Clean looking car. Why are your spark plug wires so thick and long though? Crazy.

Great article that I'm attempting to follow currently. The only problem I have, and one that doesn't seem to have been addressed yet, is how am I supposed to roll the window down if it does not respond to the power switch at all? As in, the motor is totally dead, with the window all the way...

FAST and the FURIOUS ECLIPSEFast and the Furious Mitsubishi Eclipse.................420A......For what it is, it seems like a pretty clean DSM with VERY low miles, but I wonder how fast or furious it really is...

Is it possible that there are larger-than-factory injectors in there that are not tuned properly and are dumping excess fuel into the cylinders? Is it possible that an aftermarket fuel pump is installed without an upgraded fuel pressure regulator? I'm leaning more towards a fuel delivery issue...

I sent a PM, but no reply yet...

Was the fuel rail ever removed before? Maybe the injector didn't seat properly. I'd run the lines out of gas and pull of your rail and double check. Check out the o-rings, they are cheap enough to just replace anyhow.

Thread titled AFPR questions, containing no questions...

I just thought this post was superbly informative and should be bumped! Those of us looking for a full OEM Timing Kit/Timing Belt Kit are greatful.One thing I'd like to add is that for early 95 2Gs, the Timing Belt Tensioner Adjuster is MD308587 :thumb:Also, I'll also throw in that all 10...

Aah, thanks. Well the guys at O'Reilly assumed it to be OBDI, and the OBDII scanner they tried on it wasn't too helpful.That thread also said under the hood should say "OBDII compliant". Other places on the web say that DSM was OBDII compliant in 95 before the mandate came in 96...

My car has OBD I and it SUCKS :banghead:. Can't get a scanner on it that is worth a shit without going to the dealer. [NEVERMIND, apparently it is NOT OBDI]Which brings me to another question: How does OBD I in a 2G play with ECMLink? I know it comes with a cable, but is it OBD I or II...

LOL. If it makes you feel better, I ripped the useless sticker off now so Rocky Balboa is gone. That's what I'm going with...

Sorry to revive an old thread, but here I find myself trying to determine the version of my 95, to purchase the correct timing equipment.From this thread, the possible clues as to early vs late 95 are:1: EPROM ECU numbers. 2: Rear rotors 3: Lumbar adjustment knob 4: Door panels 5: Vent...

After looking at it in the daylight with a buddy, it seems to be more like the water pump. The sound seems to be coming from behind the timing belt cover.I checked the cooling system, and I still have good levels but there may be air in the system.I'd really like to get the timing job done...

Yep. Thread revival here, as I didn't get the information I was hoping for thus far.I have a 1995 Eclipse GSX 2ga. Trying to change out the fog light bulbs is a pain as the screws are stuck tight. I believe I need a torx HEX tool to remove the bolts correctly.Can someone please verify...

Saw that one, it looked nice, thanks. He mentions like $200 shipped a few years ago, though the seller I'm talking with says $219.99 is really his bottom line, which is why I wanted others' opinions.Ok? This seller puts up a lot of "best offer" auctions and states in his ad to email him...

For those of you who purchased an SRS exhaust on eBay for a 2G GSX, what final price did you pay, shipped? Auctions I see are listed at 199.99 + 70 shipping Buy It Now, others are listed at $250 Buy It Now/Best Offer with free shipping. Outside appearance would say that the price is $250-$270...

Thanks, that's where the sound is loudest from what I can tell.Did this. Actually, I sensed no vibrations from the power steering mechanics, but that doesn't automatically rule it out. The pulley could be vibrating on the stationary pump.I did feel some vibrations off of the alternator...

No. I can have the clutch depressed while parked and it has no effect on the sound.Lol, OK? How so? Take off a belt and start her up? I'll save that option for later.Another note, the rattle frequency parallels RPMs; when I rev up, the sound interval speeds up with it.

So my GSX started making this new rattle this week. It is the worst when the engine is cold and not warmed up. When the engine is at operating temperature, the sound seems to lessen or go away altogether.My initial thought was a pulley of some sort, or a water pump issue. The car may be due...

Whew! Good news!I got ahold of the local Mitsubishi dealership to ask their price on replacing all 5 and they quoted me ~$140 for parts, labor and tax.Do it myself for under $20!And, in the spirit of embracing the DSM culture, I do have a repair manual coming in the mail :thumb...

Hey thanks for that!And for my own curiosity, I assume the measurements are in mm? And what is the number before the "/", if after is center bore?

I've spent the last hour browsing threads in hopes to come across what I'm looking for, but alas, here I post.1995 Eclipse GSX, with ABS.Unfortunately, I've already found out that I'm in more trouble for having ABS...I have a broken wheel hub lug stud on my rear passenger side.At...

Thanks, found that one!But what size are they? Instead of throwing $35+shipping at plastic rings, I'd like to shop other websites too.

1995 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSXSo, my summer set of rims is aftermarket. In putting on my stock/winter set, knowing nothing about aftermarket rims, I had a real blast.............not only did I have to fight with the custom locking lug nut on each wheel, but the lug holes on the rim are too...

1995 Eclipse GSXI can't seem to get my fog lights to work. So far, I've checked the fuse (didn't look burned so I didn't replace it), I've swapped out the on/off switch on the dash bezel, and I've replaced 1 of the bulbs with a new H3.I turned on my lights and turned on my fogs and...

I'm a little confused as to how this would happen. First, is the stock 2G BOV DESIGNED to leak at 15psi for protection? Or do they leak as they age and wear out? I thought stock boost was set up at less than 10psi, so why would a stock car ever spike up to 25psi just by swapping out a BOV...

Thanks all. I saw a thread regarding tweaking BOVs, and something about 2G idle being lower than 1G or vice-versa, and something about leaking due to this.One step further, when I get my Hallman Pro MBC installed, would it then be as simple as turning up the boost a little? Aside from...

I'm planning to run a 1G BOV in my setup. My car is stock right now. My main question is, what should I be aware of when I am putting the Dejon UICP on my 2G flanged for 1G BOV with a 1G BOV? Is there any settings I need to change? Can I do this without tuning with ECMLink? Am I going to...

Where can we buy an adapter to work with 2G?

Lots of good tips.Looking forward to seeing the pics!

Nothing in particular, just wondering if there was anyone out there crazy enough to do it! You never know, I may find myself on that situation someday.Mike96:On a scale of 1-10, how big of a PITA was this project for you?Then, the important question: Was it worth it?I guess there is a...

Out of curiosity, has anyone ever fully dismantled their DSM down to just the frame itself? Taken off all of the components of the car to be left with simply the unibody frame? If so, it would be interesting to know just how much work it would be (I imagine a lot) and if there is a thread with...

Like Ozy said, check the fuel pump relay. When you hear the key turn to acc., do you hear the fuel pump kick in?Pull out your spark plugs and inspect them. Is there oil/antifreeze/zombies fouling the plugs so bad they can't ignite the fuel?

Not sure if it helps anything, but I finally found the time to upload the photo I snapped of my turbo inlet:

Someone mentioned upgraded cams. Is that really something I need to reach my goal? Or should I be fine without them?

Thanks for your thoughts!Is the cluster bezel route easier or more difficult to install than the a-pillar route?

If I were to get an evo3 16g, would I be OK running with the internal wastegate? I'm trying to decide if an external is really what I would need or not for my goals.As far as the fuel pump, I've done some searches on AFPR and it seems pretty intense, I may just stick with the 190 to avoid...

Thanks, I'm still learning things about turbos (never owned one before). I understand now that my side mount intercooler is for air only, and no coolant goes through this. In theory, there should be only air in there and if there is a lot of oil that could mean my turbo is leaking.I also...

I've never taken my turbo off or anything. Can you check shaft play without removing it, lol?And check my intercooler, you mean my stock sidemount? how would I "check" if there is oil in it, exactly? Drain it? When I open the radiator cap, my coolant is bright green, if that helps any.

During the installation of the new plugs and wires. Just throwing it out there that it is good to use dielectric grease on the spark plug wires (the end that contacts the spark plug).Have you considered trying Sea Foam? Plenty of info on that out there.