I have for sale a competition clutch lightweight flywheel for 2g gst model. brand new, box a little beat up looking to get 140 or best offer.

Parts are off a 1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse gst. Many parts are new or in great condition. Project fell through and I sold the car. -evo injectors -Front camber adjustment kit -Black box ecu -1g N/T throttle body w/ rebuild kit -2g clutch master cylinder (NEW) -ARP Headstuds 7bolt (NEW) -OEM Clutch...

This is dope dude, I hope youre planning on getting some underglow and a flame thrower kit.

As an option, the ralliart floor mats off ebay that I got for 60 bucks came with rear mats that fit like a glove. They look like they should be oem.

I would have a conversation with the owner, manager, whoever runs the place. 9 times out of 10 they would rather pay to fix the problem than pay for lawyers and potentially loose more.

A shitty old fridge with some racecar stickers on it, and then fill that fridge with alcohol. :sneaky:

You can find a oem style off ebay for 100 shipped. Only issue I've found other than the diamond etching is that the material is harder. Making it not nearly as flexible as the oem bumper. And your gonna have to paint it. On the other hand if you cant get a oem locally everyone is gonna murder...

I would check to see if the two share a common ground. Get a Chilton or a wiring diagram and double check those locations. It sounds like the ground for your blower is whacked. Could potentially be the resistor block. And your wipers are shorted to ground before the wiper motor if it's blowing...

From experience its easier just buying a newspaper and a roll of masking tape and covering everything with it. Also, I would do it inside, in stagnant air. Treat it like a real paint job. I painted my car in black plastidip with the same idea you had and in all honesty I should have just gotten...

I had the same thing happen to me this morning on the way to work. I idled at 2k out of nowhere and my radio cut off and on. Turns out the end ring terminal to the alternator had heavy corrosion and the wiring end was trashed. Replaced the terminal and boom. Before shelling 100+ for a part check...

If you check some of our vendors I'm sure one of them has what you need. I'd be surprised if miller imports doesnt have that. If not then see if the avenger or neon has a similar set up.

You're not missing much. The stock floor was made outta some crappy,thin cardboard. Id recommend following cj8990 and just measure up some cardboard and pick a floor material to cut to shape. There's some other posts on here about sub enclosures if you want some ideas. Ive seen alot of guys just...

Im just gonna state it so its out there. But boost leaks cause this. Has this been a constant code?

Get a 1g front mount insert, solid poly and it fits right into a 2g mount. :sneaky:

You might have better luck checking on one of the neon forums for compatibility.

Your compression is below service limits. Do a leak down test to determine where your compression is leaking from.

Yeah I pulled the center console and tried to find a cut wire or a plug but I couldn't find anything. I know there's a small plug right by the hole, then a bigger plug on a bracket in the center console. But I'm finding nothing.

Hey everybody! Well the rear o2 wiring was cut or removed by the p.o. and I cannot find the wiring harness for the rear o2. Ive done a few replace/removal on these things before so I know its under the carpet somewhere but for the life of me I cannot find the wires. The only posts I can find are...

Yeah I'm confused about this sound difference between 6k and 7. Personally it sounds the same to me.

Do a leak down test. That will give you a better understanding.

I would also look into the throw that this thing will make. Third gear gets real close to that radio with the stock shifter.

instead of a boost leak its a vacuum leak you dont supply pressure you just check for leakage. But ive never seen a 6k rpm vacuum leak. one of your sensors might not have been reinstalled right or plugged back into the right connector or something. get a vacuum gauge and hook it up to your...

well youll have no heater for your defrosters. I dont know if that safety feature means anything to you. that switch in the middle of your hvac that goes left to right controls outside air coming into the cabin. one side will allow heat from the core through the vents and the other will block it...

I would say your headgasket might be blown or in a worse case your head is warped from that heat, do a leakdown/compression test and go from there. a dead give away would be to take your sparkplugs out and look into your cylinders. If one is significantly cleaner than the rest then you know you...

how overfilled are we talking about?

Could be it. Is your car stock? Have you done a blt?

Call up your mechanic. They wouldnt have to drain the coolant for a clutch job but if they did it could be the wrong mix of water/coolant. You ever have this problem before?

Check for boost leaks/vacuum leaks. o2 sensors tell you theres a problem. Alot of times we shoot the messenger and hope that fixes the problem. I had the same problem and it was a slight vacuum leak at the throttle body that slowly worked the fuel trim out of spec causing the code.

From working in the field I found that ohm tests don't really mean much cause the motor is not in its natural state. Voltage drop tests and amperage tests have been a much better diag tool for this kinda thing.

Dont blame a o2 sensor for doing its job. You most likely have a small leak that overtime causes the fuel trim to mess up. I had the same thing and it was an old vacuum line that would run a code after some 55+ mph driving.

How do you know this vehicle was never equipped with the factory security system?zhave you ran the vin on this car to determine? you may just have the remnants of the stock system. Regardless, if you have power up to c 06 I would verify the ground to the switch and back probe from there.

Ive seen cars on multiple occasions where while its running the brake pedal activates the starter solinoid. Wires rub against each other and make contact on older cars. If you can look up the wiring harnesses or find what color wires are for the two and run down the lines youll find something.

If everything else is good then you either have too much coolant in the system which isnt a big deal. Or the wetness is from somethimg else. When did this start?

You probably have a loose wire at the terminals. Do a voltage drop test or check the voltage going to the starter.

Make sure everything you unplugged is plugged back in. Check all your wires for a bad connection from you moving it around. Do you have instrument lights go on?

If your o2 is a 2.5 then the standard ebay special will fit or any downpipe of a similar design.

Does it shift normally at cruise? Is everything plugged back together?

I don't really like body kits but this one looks very nice. Throw a nice fmic in that grill and she'll look really perdy. Post pics or a review if you get it.

Have you checked to see if your maf is still good? Car runs ok with no maf after fix?

You can get one real cheap. They just wont last as long. I have a brand new one ive never used that ill give you for cheap. If your interested message me.

If there's a boost controller connected to the turbo then that's it. Should be connected by 2 hoses one at the waste gate. If there isn't one then that's the first thing you should buy. Use the search to see what the setup looks like. And if you stay a/t you have no boost lag. ;)

I would say that's on the edge of what the stock fuel system could handle. You'll probably be very close to fuel cut if you redline with that. You should be fine putting it down to 15 until you get your fuel system ready.

It won't really do anything for you. There will be some leakage but if its obvious then you would have shown oil consumption issues before. And you won't know what amount is acceptable.

I haven't checked. But I know rock auto has rebuild kits and whatnot. Have you checked there?

Dude no joke stay away from them oil changes. It's as bad as changing spark plugs and putting gas in a car.

The screw/nut that should be there compresses the spring so you can adjust the resistance of the bov. Too tight causes flutter when you let off the gasband that's bad for the turbo. And too loose causes it to release under boost. You want it there. If its hitting the hood you can go with a 1g...

I found this post while looking for reviews on this wheel. For 36.99 that's crazy low compared to oem grade. I going to message him for the wheels origins and see what happens.

If your worried about the water, I know that distilled water is better if your gonna put it in your radiator because its filtered out more and its not as hard as tap water.

It is the best 200 dollar paint job you can get. And in the event that your going to get it painted professionally you can peel off most of it and you can also use a little bit of paint thinner for the difficult parts, the paint underneath is just going to be sanded off anyway. Its not a 15...

There's a gapper that stm sells for like 8 bucks. It just puts the o2 sensor farther away from the exhaust flow.