I am moving to queen creek/san tan valley are next month and I have been reading that a lot of places out there might be exempt from emission testing. I am from Colorado where there were no emissions so I don't have a cat. Just wondering if anybody can give me more info on the exemtions there...
No suggestions? Well, I did the awd fuel siphon mod last night and that didn't change anything. I also took the areomotive fpr apart and it look fine. I swapped it out with the stock fpr to make sure and that didn't change anything either. I cut out each injector with dsmlink and they are all...
I installed fic 2150's, a fuelab filter and an aeromotive fpr. before all of this, I was running pte 1200's and stock fpr and filter with a 255hp pump and everything was fine. I am on e85. I started and got the idle and cruise tuned. The next day I started it and it and it went extremely rich...
Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think that is just the resistor pack for the blower motor. The thing you are looking for should have a temperature probe coming off of it that sticks into the evaporator.
You need a set of gauges. If the pressures get lower than they are supposed to be, it will disable the system to protect itself. If your pressures are correct, then you either have a bad fuse or a broken wire.
Back the mbc out all the way or bypass it so you are running wastegate pressure. If that doesn't fix it, I would do a boost leak test. And run some Ngk br6es spark plugs gapped to .028.
Are you sure you have Freon in the system. The system will not work without Freon. And your defrosted is connected to your a/c because it turns the a/c on to dry the air when using defrost.
Any flywheel stepped to the stock step height will work with the xtd. I run mine with an act streetlight and it works great. I don't know much about rre's flywheel, but as long as it is stepped to the stock height, you will be fine.
And my bad. It was too early. The mbc boost source does not come from the intake manifold. Your want it off your turbo compressor housing or the intercooler piping.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-miscellaneous/198327-taboo-speed-shop-vacuum-diagram-removal-1g-2g.html. your mbc should go between your intake manifold and wastegate.
And what do you mean, you don't have a crank sensor? You have a crank sensor. It would be throwing a code. Get codes pulled and do a blt and then let us know what your results are.
Do you have any codes? Its also possible that something happened to your o2 sensor and it is either extremely lean or extremely rich. If there are no codes, I would still do a blt to make sure.
Seeing as how it only does it when in decel, I would say valve seals/guides. Do you get a puff of smoke when you first start it after it has been sitting for a few hours?
His profile says that he has an act flywheel so I would assume he has a manual and hos car is just lacking power. Seeing as how he installed a turbo, I would start by looking for boost leaks.
I would start with a boost leak test. There is nothing to reprogram unless you are tuning for bigger injectors. Don't turn the boost up with your stock injectors.
If you have to pass emmisions, and you don't have dsmlink, you could rig it up to a vacuum line somehow and it would still function. Otherwise just get rid of it.
I want high impedence, but the heighth could pose a problem even with different/modified spacers. And I don't know if they would fit in the fuel rail. A risk not worth taking it sounds like.
check the fuse first! I would test the switch for power next and if it has power and you don't hear the relay click, replace the relay. The module is a sealed unit I believe.
Yes, wideband factor does play into adjusting your ve table. That is exactly how calans linktools works. Awesome program! If you don't want to download calans linktools, You can use this formula to know where to adjust your VE table to
(Current AFR) / (Desired AFR) x current VE at that rpm/boost...
Click on the dsm upgrade path link at the bottom of the page. And as for where to buy parts, extremepsi is a good place. Also, you can use the classifieds to look for used parts to save yourself some money.
Its probably setting a misfire code. Did you turn the engine over and let it sit for 30 minutes and turn it over again to ensure that the timing didn't move when the belt stretched?
Definitely sounds like bad grounding. Of you don't have a good chassis and/or block ground, power will start backfeeding through everything else and do all kinds of weird things
Check the voltage at the fuses that are in the fuse box under the hood. It could be that the wires going from the battery tothe fuse box are corroded and/or have a loose connection.
I would say that the cams are the problem if they are 3g cams. That is a completely different engine. Its not a 4g63 and it probably opens your valves at the wrong time. I'm surprised that they even bolted up
I don't much about the 420a's but I do know that the xtd stage 1 is pretty much a stock clutch. The stage 4 is the only that has good ratings and feedback. I run the stage 4 in my gsx and it is holding up to my hx40 just fine. The pedal is a little stiffer than stock, but not bad at all. You get...
If the belt is not in time, the intake valves could be opening on the power stroke and causing the unburnt fuel to come spraying back through the intake. Kind of like a back fire situation.
I run an hx40 and I found a 12an flange for the turbo and welded a 12an fitting on the oil pan and bought 2 45 degree pushlock 12an fittings and a small chunk of 3/4 pushlock hose and it works great.
15 inches isn't that bad but I am at 5000 feet for altitude and I pull 18 at idle. I think he has some boost leaks or somethong else going on. Its not major issue either way.
Do a boost leak test. Pressure up the whole system with compressed air starting from your turbo inlet and listen for air leaks. The test pressure should be higher than the amount of boost you are running
What is going on that makes you think you are running lean? Do you have a wideband? The ecm won't make you run lean. My first guess would be an o2 sensor, but we need more info to know what is going on and what is the car doing to make you think its lean. The plugs should be a grey/white color...
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/130662-back-firing-wot-maybe-fuel-cut.html your song seem to be very far out of SPEC so I think your coils are ok.Oops. Yours don't not your song, lol. And its post 17
Even if it has a stock chip in it, you can tell by looking at how the chip attaches to the circuit board. If it has a socket and you can just wiggle the chip out you are good to go. If it hasn't been socketed, the chip is soldered to the circuit board.
Your car should already be r-134a. You shouldn't need an adapter. You can just buy cans of 134a with a disposable charge hose to fill the system. But make sure you do it right and pull the system into a vacuum first. And its better to have a set of gauges on it when you fill it.
I would probably go with the hx35 if you want quicker spool/ more streetable. I have a 6 blade hx40 in my eclipse and love it. It is pretty laggy but all lag is forgiven when the boost hits.