Yes and I gave you the part number to search for it. It is a thermo switch that turns the fans on and goes into the radiator.Here is an Amazon listing for itFACET THERMO CONTACT 7.5109 Compatible with #OEM MITSUBISHI MB356704...

Search MD356704 in google and you shall prevail.

Checked for boost leaks right?

To troubleshoot this, a boost leak test is required to make sure you have no external leaks. High idle or idle surge is caused by too much air going past the throttle plate or air getting in after the throttle plate that’s not metered. Here’s a list:1) throttle cable not adjusted correctly 2)...

The OP mentioned he changed the PTU I’m going to lean ECU. Have you checked your caps? A fishy smell is also a sign that the caps are eating the board. Either way with a spare ECU you’ll know the issue. If that doesn’t do it you will have to check your wiring from the ECU pins to the PTU and...

I would say the fans are not pushing the same amount of air as the OEM ones.I had this kind of problem going on in my 1g years ago because the connector would intermittently loose connection to main fan and didn’t find the problem for awhile because it was intermittent. I ripped the entire...

Just wanted to add a few cents to this. First and very first thing that needs to happen is a boost leak test. If you are leaking boost and your accelerating it will fall on its face. It may not show as a vacuum leak as the boost pressure may cause the leak. For example when your cooling system...

I might just go with a poly on that one mount. The other 3 are new and didn’t have a problem sourcing them. Just the rear one for whatever weird reason. Thanks for the replies!

Hi there,I’m wondering if anyone can help with this issue. I have a 94 Eagle Talon AWD Auto and I’m looking to replace my rear engine mount since the rubber is ripped and worn. The part number stamped on the mount is MB581645 which i cannot find anywhere. Not on google (two results come up...

I don’t know what those washers are for but not for a 4G63 engine crank. The key doesn’t look right either.

+1 boost leak test.

Looks like the cheap eBay kit. I’ve used it, didn’t have any issues with any of the gaskets in the kit and don’t leak. The head gasket is a pain to clean off the surfaces I wouldn’t use it again. OEM to be sure on it will be good is my advise.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/what-size-is-that-bolt-nut-stud-fastener-1g-version.437697/

Alright. I don’t know what setup your detailing with. I’ve found all the CV’s are the same in FWD.Autozone lists specifications for parts. https://m.autozone.com/drivetrain/cv-axle/duralast-reman-cv-axle/729234_0_0?location=Looks like 37.25 compressed is the length.

On some Audi’s and VWs you have to tell the computer your changing the brakes lol. Saw it done at my friends shop. I had a big WTF over my head.

That’s not what the link was for it just was to show you the difference between a 5 speed starter and automatic starter.

Are you sure you have the right starter? Automatics use different starters than manuals due to the differences between flywheel and torque converter.Other thing is, unfortunately, I have gone through 4 starters from auto zone and oreilly until I got one that worked. These “remanufactured”...

I suggest you read up on General engine rebuilding. All engines are built the same. Pistons, connecting rods, crank. Or on the head you have valves, springs, cams etc.To answer your question, you need to use assembly lube on your crank bearings and connecting rod bearings, pack your oil pump...

1Gs came with a really primitive “auto door lock” so if it’s stock, when you unlock/lock the drivers door or passenger door it unlocks/locks the other door. From the inside and outside with the key.In the factory service manual it mentions some late 94’s came with a fob but I have personally...

If you marked it exactly where the timing mark was on the other gear, and your timing mark on the crank lines up, the engine is timed. Doesn’t really matter where the teeth are. If you rotate it a few times and the marks line back up your good to go.Great part of the 1.8L is it’s a non...

Fill the port with JB weld if you don’t want to use a plate. The FIAV is the biggest nonsense on this throttle body. The 1.8L engines don’t have it, why does the 2.0L need it?It’s basically a thermostat for idle. A piece of wax heats up which closes the valve and opens as it cools. Screwing...

@Morphius You should bring it back!Mine was mostly freeway driving. It's on it's second engine and 4th automatic haha.

Let me explain this since this is not exactly accurate.1G turbo (fwd or awd) do not have a lock up converter. Period. However,1G fwd nonturbo transmissions have an extra solenoid for the damper clutch control valve. This is a form of a locking converter. It only engages the DCCSV at...

Not so sure what your asking.. 5 speed transmissions have two cables from the gear selector vs an Auto only has 1 to the transmission. The other cable in an auto is the shift-lock to the ignition and brake.Turbo or non-Turbo doesn't matter since this is for the trans. The only thing your...

For the funnies and giggles. I know the threads very old but wanted to add to it. 380kTook the picture while driving.

So the one I bought is like this one it looks like they all have proximity sensors in those kits now then when I bought it a year ago...

The starter relay is under the radio in that golden looking box it also contains the fuel pump relay. With the rapid clicking it sounds like it might be failing. Try a known good one first and see if that resolves your issue.EDIT: also keep in mind that 1.8L DSMs have a different relay box...

Use a micrometer....

That's a nice 1g but always do the basics. Look at all the fluids, check for leaks. Test Drive it and listen for any weird sounds or noises. If your questioning the build maybe do a quick compression test and boost leak test with permission of course to ease your mind. See how the clutch feels...

Finally got it done here is the link. The PDF is 32MB because of the pictures.https://www.dropbox.com/s/sv2zv3tyk0yr6e4/1gdsmpushbutton.pdf?dl=0

Here it is I finally got it finished. It is 32MB with all the pictures so I'm hosting it in Dropbox feel free to download it.https://www.dropbox.com/s/sv2zv3tyk0yr6e4/1gdsmpushbutton.pdf?dl=0

Sorry man been working like crazy. I'll post up what I got done so far I'll just use random pics from the internet to finish it quickly.

Did you take the exhaust shield off? Should be underneath the shield after exposing the manifold.Edit: I just read your profile.. if you have a turbo kit how have you never seen it before?

Yea I would say defiantly check it in a pot of water and troubleshoot from there. I have had an issue before where the thermostat was good, compression test was good and pressure tested the cooling system and still lost coolant. Turned out to be my arp studs weren't torqued repeatedly enough lol.

Okay I'll post the link here when I'm finished.

Congrats on that sweet ride! I just wanted throw in my advise.. change the balance/timing belt!! Just in case.Just a pointer :) would hate to have to see you rebuilding your head that's all.And where in Cali are you I'm in the sf bay peninsula if you need help or anything

So I'm actually working on a write up for this exact thing LOL. So you'll have to remove the ignition lock cylinder and leave it in the on position when you pull it out. Unplug the ignition harness on the right side of the steering column. Then either get a pigtail and wire it up or cut your...

Where did you get the PT and coil pack? If it's from the junkyard........

Your thermostat should have a number indicating the temperature on the bottom. OEM thermostats are 192F so buy a 180F or 192F from Mitsubishi (recommended) or get a 195F or 180F from an auto parts store (not recommended)What makes you think the thermostat is bad? I'd suggest you use a...

Best way to know if the transmission was having problems is to see how it shifts while running and paying attention to noises from the gearbox or taking the case apart and looking at the components inside the transmission. These manuals are fairly easy to take apart and there's plenty of info on...

http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/what-size-is-that-bolt-nut-stud-fastener-1g-version.437697/

Yea. So if you look at the Nissan Altima or any new keyless entry car it's the same thing no key required and it auto starts. Basically push the button wait til it starts and go. Now this kit came with remote start and door locks but the problem is my 1.8 doesn't have that from the factory but...

So you have a big turbo and big injectors.. more specific?What engine management are you using?

I'll work on it on the weekend. It's a kit I got from eBay I'll add links to it if what I ended up buying. Should have it done on the weekend. :hellyeah:

I installed a cheap push button system off eBay and was wondering if anyone wants a write up for this lol.I bet the process is the same with any computerized push button system.Ignore my weak battery lol.

My wish list is quite a bit lol but I ended with a big bore kit, bigger carb and clutch kit for... drum roll... my Bigfoot goped :) lol :)120 bucks from ddm.

To me just looking at images you have something like this...

Could be a 6 bolt swap. Do you have any history on the car from the previous owner?

1g or 2g dsm?

I can't really figure out how to join.. could you maybe upload a copy?Thanks!