+ 1 on this if you have too much trouble getting the tire off. i know of a few tricks to get really stuck tires off but im not talking because rim damage in some way will almost be guarenteed
i agree. to a point. if you cant afford quality new. at least get quality used. spend the extra money up front and not regret it later... but lets face it tho these high performance budget cars are an aging, dying, breed. Eventually the well taken care of 1's will become classics and the rest...
i noticed that too. after i posted, the black streaks down the sides caught my eye lol. i wouldn't push that motor above stock power levels until you can afford to rebuild it.
did you pull the head because of a problem or just to do an inspect and change the gasket? from your pics i can still see a cross hatch in the cylinder walls which is good. and pistons look to have normal carbon build up. no signs of pre-detonation or ping marks that i can tell. if it was...
well said NosLaser. but not an entirely true statement. there's the in-between.. like in my case, where you have everything you need and are self sustainable, but cant afford to go out and just buy a new boss mustang for a toy. me personally i do cash for my hobbies. and can only afford so much...
there's haters for every category of car. i came from a supercharged mustang gt 91 fox body. built the car myself and to be honest it broke just as much. if it wasnt one thing it was another. oh rear ends trying to leave the car, time to box the control arms. clutch burned out.. time for a new...
W5M31-2-TPXl-TL7090 heres what i dug up. MITSUBISHI CHARIOT 03.1991-09.1997 (JAPAN) 2000/4WD [N43W] RESORT-RUNNER MX (4WD), 5FM/T [HLNUE2] MANUAL TRANSMISSION: 010. MANUAL TRANSMISSION ASSY now this link only applies to the W5M31-2-TPXl part of the code the tL7090. i am unsure.
you have no way of adjusting fuel flow right now. just throwing in a set of bigger injectors will make the car not run like it should. poor fuel economy, pig rich afrs, and poor idol are all potential symptoms.
i would try unhooking both cables from the transmission, and with the car off try to manually engage all the gears from the linkage straight off the transmission. if the transmission itself shifts fine that will at least
narrow you down so you can decide whether its a transmission problem or a...
i have an auto transmission cooler / radiator. dimentions are 1.25 in thick cores, 5.5 in wide, and 10 inches long. 3/8 inner hose diameter. anybody see a problem with using this as a oil cooler? i want to ditch the stock antifreeze oil cooler that comes from the factory on a 2g, as it has come...
the garrets are better about boost creep the then the mhi's. it has to do with the waist gate opening. the flapper on an mhi turbo doesn't move as far as a garret does. the actuator rod opens almost fully on a t25 where as it only opens about halfway on a 16g 14b etc. i have a 3in exhaust turbo...
i recently did a 14b upgrade. its not to bad. i lucked out and sourced a 14b locally in nice shape for 40 bucks. i was able to bend the stock coolant lines to work with it. bought a ss oil feed line to head for a 1g think that was like 25 bucks from jnz. plugged the line to the oil filter...
sounds like your master cylinder rod isnt adjusted properly and you have your bleeder valve blocked off.
Edit: heres a link to a good vid of what im talking about http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vYJxQyjIhUw&feature=youtu.be
im not exactly sure what the motor should run for compression. but seeing that the numbers are all very close is a good sign. that means there are no catastrophic failures to just 1of the pistons or valves anyway. compression checks are better at checking consistency then they are overall shape...
your primary 02 is what your computer will read for self tuning purposes. the 2ndary is emissions related only it is just a sniffer to make sure you have a cat. not sure whats done to your car but if you have data logger you can get into your sensors and see whats working and throwing proper...
you could try lubing up the cable and see if the sound goes away. it sounds like you are hearing the cable rub inside the sheath. i use dupont teflon silicone lubricant the stuff is awesome for a light lube spray
running 2 different tire sizes on an awd is going to put a lotta extra stress on your drivetrain. those vicous couplings are probably hating life right now.your rear tires are 245mm wide 55 percent of 245 is 134.75mm divided by 25.4 so equals 5.3 inches tire radius so 17 plus 10.6 is 27.6...
yes i would have a friend try putting the car into different gears and neutral. while you observe the shift linkage to see what it does. you may have a cable binding.
yep.. its either load vs torque. or speed vs rpm gears are non variable with a properly functioning manual transmission and clutch, unless you take the trans out and physically put different gears in it.
you said the car does not move when you depress the clutch petal. so that would mean the clutch is working as it should. if the transmission is trying to move the car while the engine is running and the gear selecter is in nuetral that mean there is either 1. a problem in the shift linkage and...
depending on what kind of milage is on the motor, i would also consider throwing in a new oem mitsu rear main seal on the motor while its out in the open.
some people like to over rev their motors a little. it helps to drop back into power on up shifts when you dont have a close ratio transmission. it really depens on how narrow the powerband is on the engine to decide if over reving some would help or not in a racing environment.
thats a tell tale sign that you need a new valve cover gasket. the gasket assembly should come with 4 "O" shaped pieces that will seal the spark plug holes from oil entering from the head. and one large gasket that will fit around the outside valve cover. its a easy to do fix with basic tools.
i am currently uninstalling a car alarm that was in my car when i bought it. now my questions are... there is a cluster of 4 wires in my hand that were hooked to it should i do anything with these besides wrap them up with tape? the 2 without connecters were hooked to the alarm and i dont know...
what about reversing the electrical current on the radiator fan make it blow outwards instead of in. if there is enough blockage of incoming air from the outside from the two coolers try sucking it in through the inside. may be worth a shot. just an idea.
is there a way to (hotwire) the compressor to see if it will turn on and get reading from there if it does? or is that a bad idea? this is interesting.. im learning something from this thread as well and more info will help the o.p. in the end :thumb:
hmm. yeah was thinking red meant low. but i grabbed an ac gauge that i have 0 to 25 psi = green which is low 25 to 45 (blue) = filled, 45-65 (Yellow) =alert 65psi on up = red warning. this is according to my gauge tho i guess they can be different.
i had a 420a eclipse when i was younger and at advaned auto it was about 320 for clutch, flywheel assembly. and throwout bearing. the clutch and flywheel are usually sold as one on those cars. im going off memory but i also had to remove 4 bolts kinda like an auto car to disconnect the tranny...
have a multi meter handi. voltage on battery should be around 12 volts 12.5 to 12.7 for livley batterys now start the car voltage should jump to 13.7 to 14.4. now fluctuate the rpms does the voltage change? if it does let us know..
if your getting a/f ratios of 16 to 17:1 plus its very possible your noise could be ping or knock from predetonation. otherwords the fuel mixture may be igniting to early in the compression stroke on the pistons. if severe enough you can melt down the pistons... they can also get little pic type...
computer runs in closed loop until the engine and primary o2 sensor is warm. once it exits closed loop it will rely on data from the primary o2 sensor for proper a/f ratios. no check engine lights correct?
worst case scenario you might have grenaded the whole motor. interference type engine. you were at 80 you were running 3k plus rpms at load. engine tear down and inspect would be step 1 then go from there. check for cracked, dented, or marred pistons as well. the head is surley toast.
i would pretty much have to say no. i could guarentee that just pulling the trans out and rebuilding it would be much much easier then attempting to tear it apart in the car if its even feasable. lots of small parts in there. gravity and space constraints would not help at all with the...
hello, the names andrew, i bought this eclipse gsx for 1000 dollars 3 weeks ago although not the prettiest it was in running and driving shape. drove it for a day then the tuner bug bit me in the @$$! i wanted to make it into a project. my goal is to transform this car from an auto to a 5 speed...