Hey guys,Im rounding the home stretch on my 6 bolt swap in my 96 tsi awd. I am using a 1g intake manifold, and i am not sure what to do with the power transistor. Does everyone extend the wires and mount it elsewhere or what? Any feedback would be great.
Running more then 15psi on the stock t25 is worthless IMO. Set it at 15psi and get yourself an exhaust and hard ic piping and you'll be happy. At least for a while..:thumb:
I had one built by a reputable builder here in maryland in my old 91 tsi....ran its ass off for a stock block. 2g pistons on 1g rods are definatly a worthwhile upgrade if you want to keep your car stock block.
Are any of your injectors leaking? Do you have access to a efi fuel system tester? Also check your plugs and make sure your wires are all good. I would try another coilpack if you have access to one as well.
there are no universal settings. there are many factors here. your air desity, altitude, air temperature etc. are all going to be acting upon the car at that time. that is what the logs are for. the logs will tell you specifically what you need to do. as stated before, 19psi is nowhere to safely...
I can drop it and have it back in by lunchtime slacking off. They're cakework bro, even the autos. Have a nice prybar on hand. I would definatly get an oem mitsu throwout bearing too. Check your slave cylindar for leaks too.
That is most certainly the PRNDL switch. However its a bad picture.. Is the cable hooked up? Does it shift gears by manually shifting? Is it unplugged? Check your fluid as well it could be so low it wont go into gear... If somethings wrong with the PRNDL it can cause all kinds of problems...at...
This is rediculous. First of all you should never run a 255 without an afpr. This is common knowledge. Second off, there is absolutly no reason why you would want to run anything less then 550's with a bigger turbo. You are wasting money IMO.:notgood:
Although a front mount is worth more, I had a great experience running an unmodified supra smic on my talon. Big16g @ 23psi pulled hard and I was pleased. The only PIA was installing it as previously mentioned, but that was nothing terrible either.
I dont know what the compression numbers are supposed to be, but cylindar 4 is sounding pretty terrible. I would definatly get the car up to running temp and do the test again however.
Make sure to port the turbo, exhaust manifold and oxygen sensor housing if your going to pull the motor out youll have them off anyway. You may want to do a leakdown test and a compression test of each cylindar if you just put a new timing belt on it if the timing belt and oil pump were replaced...
When are you hitting full boost? A turbo that size isnt going to spool like the factory turbo, its much bigger. I would think you would hit full boost before 4500rpm. Is the car tuned? what is your boost pressure set at? I have always put my tester on the turbo inlet and tested the charge...
Thanks for the clarification Dave that makes much more sense. Although I was assuming that it was a custom flexplate not a stock 6 bolt flextplate.Is there an aftermarket flexplate available that lines up correctly?
Hey guys,I am putting a 6 bolt in a 96 tsi awd auto car. Got the kiggly kit through IPT, and it said on the sales receipt that the flexplate that came in the kit may require slight modification. I placed the bushing that came with the kit on the convertor, and put the flexplate up to the...
Modifying an older Borg Warner T5 would probably be a good option too, as they are plentiful (80's, early 90's mustangs and camaros). Not a strong as a t56. If you wanted to go all out get a Tremec TR-6060, thats what all the domestic supercars have in them now (z06, gt500, challenger etc.)
Which trans is the T56? Do you have a link to the bell housing by chance? Thanks for the input.:dsm:Jake Hanhardt:dsm:T56 is a Borg Warner 6 speed. Good for quite a bit of power, dual syncros. They can be found in late model mustangs, cameros, corevettes.
Is it a 2 piece driveshaft? If its a 1 piece i would assume that you arnt going to be using the carrier bearings anymore. I'd say your best bet would be to call the shop who made the driveshaft and ask them. If it uses them then i would see what kind of shape the bearings are in and replace them...
HID Headlight kit for 1ga.
Removable carbon fibre sunroof+1 For tubular control arms and crossmembers for 1g,
+1 for carbon fiber aero parts for 1ga
+1 for harness bar
i know it sounds awsome...but honestly, i doubt it is anything special. there are tons and tons of worthless additives out there, and the pros know that you cant beat fluids from tried and true manufacturers like royal purple, amsoil etc. with an additive. if you really care about your car...
Are you watching your coolant temps with a logger? I would be interested to find out if your coolant temperature sensor isnt fried. If your coolant temps are reading around 330 degrees it's fried.
I'm pretty sure all lower seals are the same size, no matter what size the injectors are. I have stock lower's in with my denso 720's with no leaks, and no problems.
I think that you are right, and this is a crap part. I'm sure it would do the job better then the stocker, but thats not hard either. I'd be concerned about the welds would let go at full boost.
Hey guys, this morning i was surfing ebay, and i found this.http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DSM-ECLIPSE-GSX-GST-TALON-TSI-VR4-4G63-INTAKE-MANIFOLD_W0QQitemZ300032643410QQihZ020QQcategoryZ33742QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItemThoughts? Opinions?
Check your terminals on the battery, they need to be tight and I've had this problem before intermitantly due to my battery terminals not being tight enough.