I am probably close to 300whp and that the high side. I put a 6 puck in. Idk who did the clutch before me.

So about two weeks ago I went to look at some Evo's took the DSM for the trip and clutch let go on me coming home after a few hours of driving a large hill. Got the car home and took it apart that night, the problem was the center hub rivets all fell out. I have had some rattling for some time...

What he said

I didn't see that you asked that. My bad I would have it checked that's just me though.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/flywheel-step-height.363921/Not the hard to use Google before you post.

Nope

I have mine zip tied to my intake pipe.

The 2g 02 housing is just fine to make moderate power, it's an upgrade to the 1g, port it to gasket match and it'll flow even better and keep its durability of cast iron.

The green will get you there. Make sure all you maintenance is done and the engine is healthily enough to make 350. Stick to what a proven and it'll be a lot easier to meet that goal. Since you have a 99 you can use ECU flash and Evoscan for tuning.

Good luck OP. Custom cars central.com has some good systems and specs on them.

The FWD ones are usually .25 inches smaller then awd downpipes , my Apexi really only is 2.75 inches if you look up the specs since its FWD. Lol up the specs and covert mm to inches to get the real pipe size you are going to get.

I had exhaust, dp, intake pipe and k&n, MBC, 14b, and AEM WB all untuned@ 15 psi no problems at all.Tuning is not needed until you get injectors and larger turbos at 15+ psi

FP posted this on Facebook a few days ago. Shits funny

I've run K&N on all my cars, never one problem.

Closer view of number after 01 in the blank spot, that is the one that tells the difference. Looks like 47 to me pretty sure that is evo3 16g. Need some of the hotside also.

I run front o2 stock, AEM in dp pre flex, rear o2 stock but not used my WB uses that pin at ECU.

That sounds like strut tower rust, it's common but it's not good. You'll have go take care of that asap. Good luck I'm a fellow GST owner I enjoy mine.

I have a LG G2!

Looks really clean. Pretty sure you just look at the rear end and it has a LSD marking

Sounds like your on the right track to bring the car back to life. Possible that it's more wiring issues a too since that's what you've been fixing to this point. Good luck.

Remember to do that maintenance on the injectors every so many months with that corn. Been a lot of info lately about it destroying injectors.

Buy it or see if there is one in the classifieds that comes with a ecli. I got mine for like 550 with ECU V3full. It was a great deal. Sometimes they pop up just saying.

It's most likely your plugs/gap they should be gapped at .028 if not even closer. NGK BPR7ES like said earlier for higher then stock boost levels.

Looks retarded to me.High rise or winless FTW

Definitely the water pump or water pipe to pump. That's a lot of leakage so it's not just the weep hole.

When my car did this it was the knock sensor, it was not installed correctly by the PO. 12 psi is what the 14b was made to run that's stock boost level.Easiest way to get to the knock sensor is from below just FYI.

Either one works just fine. I have Apexi but it came with it when I bought it.

Megan racing

Super clean man. Looks really good.

Love the VR 4!

I'm happy with my B16g since I only have 40$ in it after a few rebuilds and sales. Pulls much harder then the 14b I had at 20 psi. Slaping a e3 wheel on it and 10 mins of effort on the compressor housing will be an upgrade as well.

Clear coat is a must. Wet sand 2000grit and polish it with a compound. I am doing a body color match on mine, just got paint mixed today.

My best advice is to find a local Dsmer from this site with some knowledge and find out if they donyt mind helping you look at the car when you do buy it. Get as much reading on common things wrong with these cars. Have some tools to do your own work, I don't trust anyone working on my car but...

That looks pretty good. Better then my buddy's work on my exhaust.

Lower hose

Like Jus said a center housing and rebuild kit will run you much less then a good turbo should cost you. It's so easy to rebuild then too. I talked to Jus about buying a 20g ended up selling my 14b flipped a small 16g and now I have a B16g that I built from the ground up. I have 40 dollars in...

I would pickup a new center housing an file a PayPal claim for the false advertising of the turbo.

Yeah sounds like a boost leak.

Something isn't adding up. Back track all your work. You for sure it's hooked up right to the boost controller and the lines are switched.?

I did this on my stock manifold but not my FP it flows better just on design alone. But you should benefit from it if out port it just takes sometime to do it right with good carbide bits.

I thought mine was the solenoid and think it still might be. I redid my negative battery terminal and seems to start every time. Just today it did it again. I will Prob swap the starter solenoid and starter the one I'm using is from AutoZone and has a warranty. This is what I replaced last year...

Could be the throw out bearing engaging the pressure plate.

Mine is doing the same thing. I also have a turbo timer installed.

Is this a question or a statement? You need to search some threads.

I have a spare if you break it and need one. When I took mine off I did it from the oil filter housing side and pulled it through. I believe there are one or two holding tabs on the block if I remember correctly. Good luck PB blaster is a must.

Knows I like big butts that aren't blacked out.

There are other sources for sure I was just throwing it out there. I support the vendors that deserve support that's all.

STM sells a kit with Allen bolts.

Classic case of " I bought a dsm and have no idea how to work on a car."

Nice job.