I have a black dash from a 99 Chrysler Sebring (yes it’s exactly the same as the 2g dash) in my 97 gsx. You will need to swap dash harnesses because they are not the same. If you have your original GST dash harness, just use that. If not you will have to source a turbo model dash harness. The...

Try soaking it in vinegar for 24-48 hours. Scrub all the corrosion off as best as you can with various brushes and pads. We were able to salvage my buddies sending unit. Here is a picture his before The vinegar bath. I don’t have an after picture but it worked perfectly after he was done. We...

First we need to know what year is your DSM is. If you are running a 6 bolt in a 2g (95-99) you will never completely get rid of the random misfire codes until you get ecmlink or install the kiggly 6 bolt crank trigger kit.But to answer your question, yes you can run either set of coil packs...

Having the correct chassis for starters

So the temperature does go up eventually like I stated. OP never stated circle track racing. Normal traffic driving or any stopping of the car will have the temperatures rise. There’s no debate that constant cruising will keep temps down if the coolant system is up to par.This is all I was...

Stick with the OEM thermostat. The lower temperature unit does nothing but delay the closed loop function on the ECU. Unless you live in a extremely cold environment your car will always eventually warm up to factory settings until the fans come on.Now if you aren’t using the stock ECU then...

I lived near 2 pick and pull yards (1 closed due to environmental issues) and constantly scour for Dsm parts. Around the 2010s there were plenty of 2g cars mostly 420a models very few spyders/turbo models and even less 1g (any) models . Now I can rarely find 1 Dsm of any trim. I don’t see this...

I installed mine just like stock. I had to cut quite a bit of the long nipple that’s on top of the fuel pump off and the rubber piece under the pump was cut in half. I used the Toyota fuel pump seal which is a better design. (The seal doesn’t apply to your setup since you went AN bulkhead.) I...

You can try: - Vise grips - Welding a nut to it (although your rear main seal is close :|) - Notch flats on each side with dremel and use wrench or vise grips again - Simply grind it down flat.Most of these will be difficult because the crank is still installed. Personally I would just grind...

I just listen to the sweet noise of tools dropping, rusty bolts squealing on the way out and every single curse word known to man being said while I’m working on the car :coy:

And thank you for doing the hardest part, finding a suitable replacement! ROFL:hellyeah:

Since people like pictures here ya go. I didn’t buy the precision hose, I purchased the spectra hose with the same part number. Comes with 2 silver hose clamps as well. It fits just fine with no trimming or kinks. The zip tie is to hold the vent tube to the filler hose since I cut the OEM tie...

They are called drip moldings. They have been discontinued for a long time so the only other options are to find another used set that’s better or paint your current set. Plasti-dip seems to work best for most.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/184563630770?fits=Model%3ASonata%7CMake%3AHyundai&epid=76620045&hash=item2af8d982b2:g:GzYAAOSw2vpfyFEJ

Since we are on the topic of showing some booty LOL

Looks like a charcoal canister emissions line. Is the charcoal canister deleted on your car? 95-97 is located underneath the battery tray and in 98-99 the canister can be found inside the drivers side front bumper. If yours is gone (the charcoal canister I mean) then that’s the vent to your gas...

That euro sport tool :thumb::applause:As for the tensioner rod I modified my 2g motor mount bracket so it’ll work with the 6 bolt setup. I plugged the original 7 bolt tensioner hole. I have a spare if I need to go back

You have the right idea! I would love to have a spare 97-99 AWD auto trans for my car. I have tons of spare parts but only a spare 97-99 auto transfer case in terms of drivetrain. Overall drivetrain parts in general are getting more scarce and most people know this so they are either not selling...

While the driveshaft is out I was able to power wash and wire wheel the underside of the car. While under there I found a few rust holes that needed attention. Mostly near the inner rear wheel wells on both sides. It didn’t look too bad until I started poking with a screwdriver. The holes...

Here is a comparison between stock size Dsm and OEM Hyundai. The SS bolts are the same length as the OEM Dsm. I do not have the grommets though. Here is a thread on the part numbers and shows the grommets:https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/hyundai-valve-cover-info.387318/I even commented when...

You actually don’t need the Hyundai hardware but you DO need the correct valve cover gasket for that particular valve cover. The stock regular Dsm gasket will not work and it will leak. Found this out years ago. I ran hardware store bolts, which are slightly longer, and the correct Hyundai...

Thank you so much! It’s a bit of a job to pull the rear subframe and remove the old bushings. I spent more time cleaning/prepping/coating the subframe then anything else but other than that it wasn’t a bad job to tackle. Especially for my first time and doing it by myself.Just a update on the...

I personally don’t have a sandblaster. My work does though :shhh::D. I am VERY grateful for being able to use it and it’s not something I can just use anytime. I will say it’s so satisfying watching everything literally blow off whatever is being blasted. It really tingles my OCD jollies:sneaky...

Continuing to service my driveshaft. Lobro disassembled and cleaned.Starting to sandblast the driveshaft and getting ready for a coat of por15

Nice, I bit the bullet and paid 114 each from extremepsi 2 weeks ago. I only live a few minutes from them so I guess it’s a convenience tax :(LOL

Thank you for the heads up. I have 1 yoke kit and 2 OEM U-joints. I’ve never had a problem with Mitsu stuff but that doesn’t mean it can’t happen. Hopefully I’ll be good to go!

I finally was able to disassemble the driveshaft and check it out. The U-joints didn’t feel too sloppy but that doesn’t matter be it’ll all be replaced. Both carrier bearing seals were shot and pretty dry. The lobro joint was still sealed and the grease was clean on the inside which I hope is a...

Thank you!!I’m currently waiting for my order from STM which is the driveshaft conical washers (2) and a set of new driveshaft to rear diff bolt/nut set along with a 27mm socket for the carrier bearing nuts. So in the meantime I removed all of the stock rubber bushings and I cleaned/ lightly...

You can use compressed air to blow through the heater core also. Just connect a line to a empty jug/container and blow air through the opposite line. Beware depending on how much psi you have blowing through, the clog may blow out in force and potentially make a mess if your jug/container setup...

Started to rebuild my driveshaft. I never have done this before so I’m looking forward to learning a lot!

Now with the subframe wire wheeled and power washed I used Loctite rust inhibitor on every place I could access with a paint brush to help prevent any further corrosion. It was also time to install the volk solid diff bushings. A bit of a pain in the ass without a press bit I was able to manage...

With the rear subframe assembly pulled I can now see if there is anything else wrong. The suspension was all original (build date 6/96) and it’s a northern car so the odds were against me and I assumed the rear was just as bad as the front. I was most worried about the rear axles seizing in the...

Since the motor is basically complete I’d figure I would start to replace the old stock suspension with some fresh parts along will doing some cleaning/rust prevention on the body. I purchased the OEM front knuckle/LCA/compression arm kit from extremepsi. It’s actually cheaper to buy the kit...

This. ^^^^The most change and vibrations came from the engine and trans mount installed. I drove for a few weeks with stock rolls stop bushings while I sourced the front and rear “inserts”. I went full solid when I found a thread on here about a rear 1g prothane fitting into 2g roll stops. I...

Personally I think the PRP plate is ugly. But that’s neither here nor there. Just my lame opinion! I was just showing another option for us non-baller DSMers a kit that doesn’t involve a finicky, hit or miss, albeit expensive CDI kit and eliminates the stock PTU which can fail itself on...

I definitely want a set. Hopefully another batch will be made soon!

I purchased this kit from Anti-Lag racing for 500. No CDI box needed and it removes the PTU. I have yet to install it on my car. States it can handle 800whp, more then enough for 95% of the people out here. Here’s the website:http://www.antilag200.com/1g-2gcop.html

Timing cover modifications and install:I’m not the first to do this but I really dislike the 1 piece 1g 6 bolt timing cover. I originally cut the 6 bolt cover into 2 pieces but I really didn’t like the giant saw line that went across the cover. So I purchased a brand new 2g middle timing...

I just went through this with my alternator relocation kit. I have non OEM pulleys on everything so the belt that came with the kit was not correct. So I took a piece of string and wrapped it around each pulley until I reached the starting point again. I cut the string and then measured it. I...

Many benefits to doing the gouge cuts. I work in a small shop and we have a disk grinder where the table moves back and forth. I’ve noticed that the wheels last longer with the automated table going versus dialing the handle straight down which is plunging. But time is money here and they don’t...

Cylinder head time....Ported 1g 7 bolt headFerrea Competition Plus valves +1mm Ferrea valve keepers Kiggly beehive springs w/Ti retainers Kiggly HLA EVO 8-9 rockers 3g lifters GSC billet S2 cams GSC valve seals GSC bronze valve guides Oil port mod EGR port tapped and plugged Head stud holes...

Yes I did. I must say using a brand new pan was nice, so damn clean and a straight flange :D . I’ve resealed OEM pans before but the prying/using a mallet to flatten the flange makes less room for error. When I sealed the pan this time I hand tightened the bolts with a nut driver and then let...

Here are some photos of the modification needed to run the Jay Racing alternator relocation kit on a 2gb eclipse/talon. I had no idea that it needed modifications to fit a 2gb dsm. It’s only advertised as 2g only. I contacted Jay via Facebook messenger and he told me that I needed to drill and...

Progress.... Built 6 bolt: Torque plate honed Weisco HD 10:0-1 pistons Eagle rods Eagle crank Blocked oil squirters Balance shaft elimination OEM water pump 1g NT water pipe 1990 ported OFH w/smaller oil pressure relief spring Arp L19 studs New Spectra 6 bolt oil pan Evo spec overdrive water...

You can still find themhttps://www.google.com/shopping/product/1?q=dsm+2g+brembo+brackets&client=safari&hl=en-us&biw=375&bih=553&tbs=vw:l&prmd=sinxv&prds=num:1,of:1,eto:17469590254198427905_0,prmr:1,pid:17469590254198427905,cs:1I have the same set on my gsx.

Out of the game for awhile because I was devastated when I lost the motor in less then 5k miles in early 2019. Some lessons were learned and a $hit ton of money was wasted. Here is what took out the motor. Hard to see but the stub shaft hole was wasted when the grade 10 bolt fell off the stub...

I just rebuilt my AEM fuel rail and it takes 4 of the same O-rings, 2 per side. I used assembly lube to install them. Correct part number for the O-rings are stated above in post #1. (1-3024) X 4pcs*****Thank you OP for posting the specs/part numbers of the rail assembly.

Sold

Sold.

I bought a fresh built block and found this after I got some kind of weird knocking noise. Less then 5k of “very easy driving”. No bearings were spun oddly enough. Not to mention I was battling very high oil pressures the whole time. Don’t cheap out on the stub.