Didnt get a chance to pull the pan yet. I dropped the downpipe and cross member. Oil doesnt have shavings in it... But we will find the answer in 4 hours when i get home

I heard that taking out the plug and not hearing the noise means its the bottom end. But idk, thats why im hoping a dsm guru will pop out of no where and help. I think im going to drop the oil pan right now.

Pulled the plugs... Tops of Cyl 2 and 4 are wet

Contacts in your ignition switch are most likely worn and moving around. Happened to my friends ef hatch

So.... I start hearing what sounds like bad lifter tick. Pop the hood and wow is it noisy. I tried to readjust timing to see if i was knocking on idle. No matter how much timing, it knocks. So ibpulled the plugs 1 by 1. Cyl 1 i can get an arc from about an inch away and the same goes for cyl 3...

The car was running poorly way before i installed the afc so i know that is not the problem

Okay, i have no clue why my car it messing with me, but it just started running fine. And its been running amazing for the past week. I dont get it. I tried a launch. Slipped the clutch just like we awd'ers are suppose to and it started to break them loose. It feels great to be back in the boost...

Well my fix seems like it was all just luck.... Back to the drawing board. Lets start fresh. Ive got a 255 with a new strainer, new 550cc injectors, used 2g maf that i tested and it tested good. Also have a k and n filter, my ecu had the caos replaced. Fuel pump rewired. And now im a/f are spot...

Its running fine now. 20% fuel on the safc. Swapped mafs, new coil packs, then i replaced the fuel pump. It ran good but still dropped a/f. Since i owned my dsms i kept reading and reading about the wally 255 with stock fpr. Now for anybody who doesnt believe, i will make you a believer. The 255...

No unfortunatly i dont have a logger, but i do have a brand new mitsu knock sensor thanks to the machine shop that ### my wires on accident. But i.installed the new maf, no differnece, new transistor no difference. Going to pick up my other coil pack right now and try that. If that doesnt work...

Okay idk what everyone is telling me about plugs, wires and timing. But just to say, ive already set my base timing to factory. Ive already switched plugs and wires. I bought a rebuilt ecu. And yes i did test the ecu and i did open it up and look at it. Its non eprom, rebuily, and new caps. I...

It bucks sputters after the a/f starts to rise. Id say as soon as it hits 13.5 to 1. But in neutral its fine. Ill take a video and post it in a bit. That way everyone can hear it

Ya i was thinking its the maf and not spark because the maf is the only thing thay is going to make my a/f that messed up. And because the a/f im getting knock. And due to knock im pulling timing. And because im pulling timing its misfiring. A huge chain reaction of a hassle

Ive already replaced plugs and wires. I did switch to bpr6es and accell 8.8 wires. I have an extra coil but its a 90 coil so i cant test use it. I think im gonna try to grab a coil off a n/t from the junkyard. And it drives perfect even at wot until it hits 4k rpm then it stars to buck. Under 4k...

Wideband is brand new.. So its my boost/vacuum gauge. Vacuum is a strong 21-22hg . Tps is good according to my multimeter and according to my safc. I stil need to check the mas

Idk what to do anymore. Ive got a 2g maf 550cc injectors and an safc with a wideband and no matter what i do/how much fuel correction i give it, as soon as i hit 3500rpm my a/f goes up uo and away. Its fine boosting under 3500. I can brake boost it and my a/f will be at 10.8:1, but when the rpms...

Im not getting blow out, i also tried new plugs today. Tried to gap them all the way down to .022 and no change. I did however notice that my last pull i didnt look at the road. I watched my uego. And it went to 10.0 and stayed there so apparently im running way to rich since the uego doesnt...

Checked wastegate line as you said and nothing.. I changed plugs and wires. It picks up more on bottom end but still breaks up in higher rpm. I can brake boost 16psi at 3000rpm and no sputter or hesitation. But as soon as i hit 4500 still misfires like crazy.I ended up hooking up my wideband...

Built a blt. No leaks. I check my fuel pressure and its solid. Pulled the fuel pump, it is a 255 just like i was told. Base timing is set at 6 degrees. I know mitsu says 5 but i upped my boost to 16psi so i think 6 degrees should be okay. Im running bpr7es right now, but im going to get new...

So i actually texted that guy and he thinks his car is fast. I quote "dude my friend thinks my car isnt fast but i asked him how my tail lights looked." He then proceeded to say "yeah man i was in 3rd and my friend was in 5th and i was pulling on him but then i had to stop"Now if thats not...

1995 eagle talon tsi LMAO!

No boost leaks... I think it maybe the fuel pump going out because it takes a good 5-10 seconds to fire when cranking

So, as a few of you know ive just got my engine in. I was trying to do the motoman break in. And well, first pull i was in 2nd flooring it and as soon as i hit 4k rpm and only at 7 psi (yes i have an aftermarket boost gauge) the car bucks and sputters. I know its not fuel cut because i have a...

Ill post a picture with everything all hooked up as soon as i get home from work in 6 hours

We will if i can get her to run right. No cels now but still runs like a crapasaurus rexUpdate... Didnt drive it, let it idle while i was looking for the problem. Caps in ecu blown. Replaced the caps with new caps from my rebuilt n/t ecu. Still a problem, but narrowed the problem down though...

I bought the hks flange and then i had a guy at my work weld the fitting onto the pipe then repainted it black to match

So... She starts. But runs like hell.... In a bad way. Getting a code 25 so im gonna check my wires to the 2g maf and check the resistance and voltage. Hoping i can get her all figured out today.

The mani is a 2g ported. Ported more than my head, but i didnt want to grind into a coolant passage on accident, so i didnt port the head too much

I will be shortly. I gotta add coolant, rewire the coolant temp sensors, fuel pump and the o2 sensor that the previous owner cut apart

Its in, now just the finishing touches need to be done.

Thanks guys. Ive got the crank and pistons in, along with the oil pump with the balance shaft delete kit and the rear main seal. I plan on getting it running today. And if i do ill post a video of the first start upAs for the cylinder head, i ported the exhaust ports for a little better spool...

Well its been a little over six months since i tore her down for the rebuild. Finally the day has come to start putting it all back together. Here is a quick pick of the block as soon as i got it back from my machinist.

I have a 2g maf and denso 550's so maybe they will play together nicely?

As much as a hassel as it is, id unbolt the trans to make sure both front and back dowels are in. My last dude forgot to put my rear dowel in and it clunked for about 5 minutes, then rippedthe trans from the block to the point where i needed a new block and bell housing

As for the 5th gear jeep thing, mine does that too, its the rear end howling. It doesnt mean the rear end is bad, it could just be the awd depending on what 5th gear highway speeds you are at. Mine does that past 70mph. The grinding idk about, never had that problem. Id change your rear end, t...

You dont need to pull the turbo off to check the wastegate, just put a set of vise grips on the rod for the wastegate and pull towards the exhaust side. It might take a bit of pulling. And if the turbo is used whether its a ebay 16g or mhi, carbon build up or rust can make the wastegate stick open

Check to see if the wastegate is stuck open first, also make sure your bov vacuum line is hooked up.

Im just trying look for anybody that has a turbo 1g that has run 550cc's and a 2g maf without an safc or link. Trying to see what their a/f ratios are without tuning.

If you rebuilt the engine with new rings then you are going to get gas in the oil because the rings arent seated yet. Thats also a reason why you change your oil so quickly when you do a rebuild not to mention the shavings from the new parts wearing down. No starts are usually something simple...

I havent been rushing to get stuff together, ive been buying parts for the last 6 months and i do have a wideband to watch my a/f and some of us dont have the extra 500 dollars for link. Some like me dont have money for a logger and safc. only reason i dont have the money is because im 21, dont...

Exactly and thats how our 6 bolts are bornLOL

Couldnt it be a bad ball joint too??

I think im gonna try the motoman break in method. all the hondas i have built for friends, we warm it up and run it hard and they never have problems, and i mean never. But were talking about a dsm here so idk how it will turn out. Saturday i get my block back and saturday night i will keep...

If for some reason you cant drop your iat's, have you ever thought about an air to water intercooler?

My drive will begin in 2 weeks from today. Im dropping im my engine this thursday. Im going to be driving it as much as possible between this thursday and march 26th. Im hoping to put on atleast 500 miles before i start my drive to az. I wish i could rent a uhaul, but unfortunately i cant afford...

Okay then i stand corrected but even if it isnt because of split bearings, the only thing putting.pressure on the crank would be the drivetrain. Im trying to stick up for the 7 bolts because, crankwalk can happen on any vehicle, but my personal theory for the7 bolt getting the bad rep about...

Stick with your 7 bolt. Just dont ride the clutch because thats the reason why they get crankwalk. I just had my machine shop explain it to me yesterday and im going to try my best. 7 bolts have a thrust bearing, 6 bolts have the thrust bearing but its built into the main bearing, making it less...

Did you atleast lap your valves? Everytime i take a head apart i lap the valves so they seat properly. Also, did you have the piston rings cut properly? Another possible issue could be that all the gaps in your rings are facing the same direction. But these are worst case scenarios for your...

If my car makes it in to az from chicago all good the morning of the 30th im gonna be putting in my 550's and 2g mas. I should be finally living in AZ on the 29th!!!

Im tony, ill be moving to san tan valley in 3 weeksIve got a 92 tsi awd 5spd Light weight flywheel, comp clutch, wally 255, 550cc injectors, 3inch exhaust, 2g ported exhaust manifold flanged with an hks wastegate, evo 3 ported o2 housing, 2g mas, fmic, 2 1/4 intercooler piping, ssqv 3, mbc set...