Wow, they sold you an egg shaped tire? that's pretty ghetto. Definitely get a new tire.

I admire that you want to do the CR calculations involved in boring out the cylinder. You are correct in that CR does increase when you bore out a cylinder. People forget that the head combustion chamber never changes so you end up compressing more volume than than a stock bore engine. It is...

Maybe I paid too much, as I got my mitsu MLS head gasket for $90. That looks just like mine.I've got the MLS gasket and ARP head studs, so I'm safe for boosting 20+.

I can understand wanting something different, but this is sort of taking a step in the wrong direction. You could do a relatively easy swap to a 4G63T, but instead want to do a harder, less potential swap. I would imagine no one makes conversion mounts for this swap. It would most definitely...

That's a new one for me. I've seen warped/twisted splines on the output shaft for the transfercase. Have you found out how it warped the spline in the first place?

I hope the mechanic at least checked the thermostat to see if that was the problem before replacing the waterpump. It could also be a plugged radiator. Older cars get cruddy deposits sitting at the bottom of their radiators, impeding the flow of coolant.

As far as metal and ethanol, just make sure you have no copper, brass, terne (older gas tanks), zinc, or aluminum as ethanol is not compatible with these metals.There is also a similar list of polymers that are not compatible with ethanol.You also have to be aware than ethanol is...

The only reason you'd worry about methanol corroding the internals is during startup and warmup since that is where you would form formic acid which would start eating away pistons and internals. After the car warms up, it is no big deal. That is why most flex-fuel cars have coated engine...

You have to really be flowing alot more to need to upgrade the stock fuel line. You'll be fine.

I would check for boost leaks.

It is fairly straight foward. You need to unbolt the exhaust (from 02 housing and block) and pull it out of the way. You will need to also remove the transfer cae. It is five bolts, 14 or 17 mm, I can't remember which. After you remove the five bolts, you need to pull the transfercase...

The cheapest I ever found them was for $8 a piece. Good buy!

Too bad you didn't list the supra, but out of your choices, I go with the gsx. I could spend more money on the mods without having to pay so much for the car itself. Plus I like the look of the 2G eclipses over the evo or scoobys

If you're still relatively stock, use bpr6es spark plugs. Like larsenracing said, the bpr5s are a hotter plug which wouldn't work too well with our turbo cars. Once you're mildly modifed I go with the bpr7es which is a colder plug

As long as your boost solenoid is controlling boost, its safe to run the 14b. It'll still run stock boost. Once you get the boost controller is when you really need to have a boost gauge.When you store a turbo, just make sure the bearings have oil. Keep it somewhere dry.

Personally, it sounds like bearings. Pop off a bearing and check. I'd check clearances, if okay, then move to replacing the oil pump. Perhaps it wasn't lubed when installed.

I'm not sure why you'd want to do this, especially if this car could potentially be sold at a later time. I'd just put a piece of tape over the light or remove it for a clean look.

Weird, the Bullseye housings I knew of came assembled with flappers. Now they are making them out of stainless steel so they are good quality. They are also more than $50 dollars. Where did you get yours?

If you want something cheap, then search ebay. But keep in mind you get what you pay for. Some ebay downpipes need some extra grinding (hole enlargements) to get everything lined up.

You can try http://www.mitsubishipartstore.com/ or http://www.sanrafaelmitsubishi.com/ They're a site sponsor

good vacuum is about 20, so if you have a healthy engine, it should be near that. When the timing belt jumps a tooth, the valves aren't where they are supposed to be at. Meaning, a intake valve would be open at the same time as an exhaust valve. Well, then there goes your boost. Check to see...

For a stock GSX (unmolested) with 59K miles, yeah, it'd be worth it for me. I could live with the maintenance. I do my own work.

Anytime you rebuild anything that rotates as an assembly, especially something that operates at such high rpms as turbos, it needs to be balanced. Balancing is done as an assembled unit. The individual parts probably do get balanced individually to a point.

When you say you're losing spark, are you checking the plugs for spark or the wires?

I personally buy OEM parts because I know they generally work well since they were designed specifically for my car. The Bosch sensors do their job, but I doubt they were designed specifically for our cars. The extra heat might shorten their lifespan. It's a matter of preference really.

I would try bleeding it again. You might not have enough pressure to fully disengage the clutch.

Yes, you can bolt on turbo parts onto a 4g63 NT motor. They are exactly the same on the outside. Slight differences here and there with internals, ie, oil squirters, pistons...

The valve guide is simply where the valve stem runs through as the valve is pushed open. The valve seal is what controls the amount of lubrication (oil) is allowed in the guide. Too much oil, and you burn oil. Too little, and you get premature wear of the guides, leading to burning oil, loss...

I normally use GM Synchromesh on my trannys. It worked wonders on both my 95GST and 90GSX. Grinds went away. Since your tranny doesn't grind when cold, I'd recommend going with the GM stuff and maybe putting in some Lucas like additive (for trannys) to thicken it up a little.

that spark plug is probably loose. Oil in the combustion chamber is getting past the threads into the spark plug hole. Now, is it alot of oil? Do you burn oil? Oil is normally present (vaporish) in the combustion chamber to be burned, but alot of oil suggests a couple of things like valve...

That is the only way to bend valves. If everything is timed correctly, there will be no interference of the valves and pistons. Did you recently do a timing belt change? If so, is the tensioner new or used? If used, it could be bad and not tension the belt correctly resulting in getting...

A loss in fuel pressure is also caused by a dirty fuel filter.

Have you checked you PCV valve? It is on the back of your valve cover. Take it off and shake it. It should rattle. Otherwise it's stuck closed (or open, but in your case it sounds closed) and pressurizing your crankcase then your oilpan. It would be force oil to be burned

Under the boot, or on top of the boot? In the well or just on that boot?

I'm pretty sure its 38lbs at idle. Base.

Sounds too far advanced.

Thanks for your reply. Yeah, I found out that the flywheel gets in the way. I ended up putting in the transfer case with output shaft attached and the oil pan on at the same time. That's something I don't want to do ever again. The car is back on the road and doing fine. Small oil leak...

First off, is it possible to install the tranny back in the car with the transfer case bolted to it? The reason I ask is that the center output shaft got stuck in the transfer case and came out with it when I dropped the xfer case. I had to pull the transmission out in order for the output...

Sounds like a JDM version without the extra emissions ports. Sounds like a nice piece.

That's why I've been looking at that Seibon hood. I don't like the side vents on the VIS hood. I have a VIS OEM style hood that I cut vents out, but recently got into an accident and now I'm looking for another CF hood.

Side to side indicated tie rods. Top to bottom AND side to side indicates wheel bearings. Bad wheel bearings make a roaring sound while driving. Hard to miss.

Thanks, I'll order a set. :thumb:

I have searched but couldn't find a straight answer. I have calipers from a NT 3000GT that have the screw in brake fittings. I know I need new lines since my 2G has banjo fittings. Can I buy ss lines for a 1G and bolt in place? Or do I have to go somewhere to get custom made brake lines...

You can leave them in and still get into 12s. People usually remove them because they are just one more thing that can fail and break the timing belt. If you leave them in, just make sure you replace the belts.

I have the HKS on mine and I love the sound. Both BOVs will perform well on most applications so either way you should be happy.

One thing I've done before is to use a hacksaw to cut through the ring and then peel up one corner and away it goes.Or you could take it to a place that has presses. Shouldn't cost that much.

It's always possible to swap in those engines, but it involves a good deal of fabrication to mount. The cost would really make me reconsider trying.

Bad wheel bearings have a roaring sound as you drive. I can see how it can sound like an airplane. If you lift that corner, you should be able to wiggle that tire if the bearing is bad. It definitely sounds like you have a bad wheel bearing.

Wow, Florida was fun, good weather. Anyways, the clutch worked out very well. I put it through its paces through the streets and freeways. Along with the LSD insert, the car just pulls. The only real difference with the flywheel I can feel is lower RPM response. I attribute that mostly due...