are you sure you put the tps on correctly and thats not why your getting weird readings? What i did to check my tps one time was pull the tps off the tbody and let it connected to the harness and messed with it to make sure i was getting good readings. That could be a fast easy way to make sure...

Even though the machine shop is measuring get a set up telescoping gauges, outside micrometers, and small bore gauge. You then can double check the oil clearance without using the plastigauge. Plastigauge is really only used for quality control checking. You can also check out of round, taper...

Honestly the lack of power is probably the stock ecu and a t25. I have a 16g and it spools retarded fast. I cant imagine the t25 on a 2.4 setup. People complain about the power drop off with a 2.0 on the top end with a t25 so a 2.4 is going to reach that a lot faster than a 2.0.

So I took my 97 down to UT I Orlando. Pretty sure the my oil pump or bearing clearances are shot and ate the thrust bearings. If anyone has a garage or jack etc. I have bearings with me and just need to order a new front case and a place to work on it. Message me on here or text 260 515 2694

perm a cool fans have a lot higher cfm rating than the mishimoto and fal fans. Standard Electric Fans Just their standard fan is rated for 2300cfm vs the 900-1100 cfm of the other brands. They also have their performance fans up in the 3k cfm ratings.

Lol hell yes stock suspension for the win. I have a set up lowering springs and struts ready to go. I lived in a shitty town for college and the roads were terrible. I didn't want to rape my front bumper and exhaust.

I ended up pulling the dash so I could get to the harness that runs under there. Then I pulled the front harness with fuse box in the engine bay. Going to start delooming them today to find the short.

5% on all the sides then 20% in the back so I can see when backing up.

So for some time now I have had my left blinker stay on or flash randomly when my headlights are on but it acted normal when my headlights were off. I had replaced the turn lever and the turn signal/hazard box under the dash by the radio. Those did nothing so obviously some wires are touching...

Ah sorry your correct M005 and M006 I cleaned and doubled checked because only one does have the CAS slot. So definitely 272s!!!! Awesome appreciate the help. It was the 604 and the 704 that threw me off.

So I am looking at buying a set of HKS cams from a local guy but they are older and don't have the 264, 272, or 280 stamped. They are HKS stamped so they are legit HKS cams. The part number that is etched on the hex of the cam is M005604 and the other cam is M005704. Supposedly they are 280s let...

I would love to destroke but I already have all forged internals in the 2.4L. Plus 94mm crank and 156mm or 162mm for the long rods would be pricey. Especially since I am really only looking at the cost of cams vs whole new bottom end setup.

Nice! I like the steady power from 4k to 7k. My only issue is I don't plan on running a 16g. I wonder how that would look with a 60mm wheel or bigger only because of the lag. Obviously, I want a usable power band not stupid power from 6k to 7k then its time to shift with the 2.4L

Do you have a dyno graph or whats the range of your power band. Also aren't the Kelfords pretty close to 280s?

I am trying to get a pretty good setup started. I have an extra head that is getting worked on. I have BC springs and retainers going in it. Havent decided valves and guides yet. But the question is with a 2.4L and for a daily driver are HKS 280s really to big? I couldnt find much other than...

Compression test time possible HG blown.

I have 18x9s with 235s but running +28 offset. I might be able to get away with 245s but it would be close to the knuckles

Did you check flywheel step height? Also you may need to check that the TOB was installed correctly. Look through the hole by the shift fork.

What the are the max tolerances for cutting a crank? also here is a link that is pretty interesting about the nitride penetration http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/429060-can-you-machine-7-bolt-crank.html

i actually got rid of the gaskets bc they would leak and just used the rtv with much better results

White plugs usually means a lean running condition or detonation. It looks like you have stock IC piping make sure you spray whole pipe bc they are rubber and they crack not only at the connecting points. You need to check fuel pressure and check for a clogged or leaking fuel injector is where i...

Check your timing before you do much more. If timing is fine I would check the coolant temp sensor is plugged in and the wires aren't frayed. You also need to check if fuel pump is working and that your getting spark. These should be things you do before you start a post on here to eliminate the...

Agreed where the key goes.

My GST did that when my ground off the battery was starting to wear. Check some grounds or your ignition switch might need to be replaced.

rockauto also sells a lot of new pigtail

I cant answer the light question other than the car was losing power and it came on just like how most lights come on when the car is first in accessory mode.

alright you need to make sure you have the TOB installed correctly. Having the TOB not installed correctly will cause the clutch hydraulics not to build up pressure but yet be perfectly bled. If you pull the boot back by the clutch fork make sure the clip is still on and the TOB is on the...

So the motor cranks but no fuel/spark? I would test Crank or Cam position sensors. Usually fuel or no spark is related to those since ECU doesnt know when to fire or dump fuel.

Yea I know how the 95s had the single MPI/FP relay and the 96+ had the two separated. Do you know if the ECU is getting power now after the new relay?

I agree with the exhaust leak. From my quality laptop speaks I don't notice the metal destroying its self noise. I wish I had a video of my friends GST that had rod knock. You could hear him coming and it wasn't the exhaust.

Double check the ground on the starter. If not pull the starter relay that is behind the radio and use a jumper from one of the red/black wires to the yellow in the harness connector. That is basically bypassing the starter relay.

I just had a MAS problem and it similar in the acceleration but the rpms def didn't do that. You could unplug the MAS and see what it does.

Well I messed with the MAS this morning and plugged my obdi scanner in. Before I for i even started the car the IAT was at 60 real temps were 25-30. I watched the IAT from the scanner all day it never got close to the outdoor temps. Luckily there is another DSM guy near by and we are swapping...

Alright here is the deal. I am having trouble with cold starts. It turns right over just fine and starts but then usually stalls maybe 20 seconds later. Usually happen 5 times until engine gets warm. Now here is the fun part. I am running super lean. At idle its hit or miss where the a/fr at any...

I switched my car from auto to manual but i am using a manual harness not the auto harness. Obviously the starter relay plugs are different. Could I splice in the auto connector to the manual harness and make it work with the auto starter relay/auto plug? Also the two black/red are 12v constant...

A 2g tranny has two mounts. ONE on the rear with attaches to the front cross member right by the fire wall. The other mount attaches to the subframe between the tranny and the radiator. The subframe which goes from under the passenger side to the front clip.

higher compression can lead to engine killing detonation

you may want to find a 5 spd harness. for the axles i think its hit or miss. mine didnt fit to much play in the tranny for my liking its only 50 bucks at AZ and its brand new life time warranty if yours dont fit.

love my AEM (tru boost, oil press, and wb)

I daily with the fidanza and i have no troubles. I also have a short throw shifter so no stalling issues between shifts. I have my idle set at 750. For me i think its easier to rev match. I think its more personal taste. I have a 2600 pp and drove a friends gst with a stock clutch and flywheel n...

that means you spent roughly 2100 dollars on trannies and how many hours pulling and dropping the trannies in? Do the dirty work first so its all easy after that. We all the know the dsm manual trannies love to explode so get that tranny built and get the hard crap out of the way and then move...

I dont mind it at all. I like a little bigger but thats just personal preference. Get those calipers cleaned up and it will be a clean setup.

Dont quote me on this but usually when the tranny fluid smells burnt its the clutch packs that are worn and are slipping. I really dont know much about auto trannys to many things to go wrong. Also if it revs but doesnt move its bc fluid isnt being transferred to the torque converter. Again dont...

Do you really think a rotating assembly that is NOT balanced is going to have a smooth or even close to as smooth of an idle or at any rpm of the engine, opposed to an assembly that has been balanced. Thats like saying a tire/wheel that isn't balanced will have the same ride quality of a...

Wrong its the extra deck height and its a stock bore of 86.5mm. The 100mm crank is out of a 2.4l and a 88mm crank is out of a 2.0l FYI Cooper.

You mean 6 bolt? I havent heard the Hyundai crank fitting a 7 bolt block.

If the rotating assembly is balanced correctly it is hardly noticeable.

It should fit. Stock dsm crank is forged while the stock evo crank isn't forged. I think dsm is 35 pounds and evo is 30 pounds. Since your going to the 100mm stroke crank its just a 2.4l crank 7 bolt crank is a 7 bolt crank doesn't matter evo, 2g, 3g, etc.

if your trading your built stuff for his stock stuff i would want some money if it were me.

Cons: Possibly more vibrations under the hood due to the lack of the balance shafts. It is really hit or miss, unless your building your motor I would highly recommend getting the rotating assembly balanced. Also increased oil pressure can be a problem later.Pros: Less rotating mass the crank...