Hey guys!Been a long time since I've been around these parts. Was digging out my tool box after moving and found some stuff I no longer have a use for. I sold my 2G many years ago to help fund my wife's degree and have moved on to bigger and better things (JK I drive a Hyundai Kona).I have a...

Yea. They used to help a lot of us out with small packages/envelopes and such but they were losing so much money on the back end. It's understandable and no fault of their own. Easy enough to just remember to include the small things on larger orders from now on.Your best bet is calling into...

MR189485 if ASA is correct.$0.83 on JNZ.Edit: Seems like it!http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/resolved-part-needed-2g-dsm-hatchback-bolt-hook.308915/#post-151616598

I'll have you know vegan hamburgers are astoundingly good. Can't knock it until you've tried it (at least a high quality one).TL;DR: different strokes for different folks. Choose what's within your budget and ability to manage. They can be a handful.

Surprised it hasn't been mentioned but are you positive it's oil? The P/S pump is a much more common source of a oiled up alternator. The high pressure line o-rings are known to leak as they brittle with age. If there's any fluid pooled on the top of the pump, that would be your likely culprit.

Well there's your first issue. While aftermarket pulleys (NSK, SKF, Timken, Gates, etc.) are all fine and dandy, the tensioner is NOT something you should consider purchasing outside of OEM for these engines. While a few may have had luck, the vast majority haven't. These hydraulic tensioners...

The belt is pre-tensioned by the eccentric pully. The hydraulic tensioner's job is to take up the slack as the belt stretches. The pin of the tensioner should only protrude by no more than the value listed in the picture. If after six rotations of the crank the pin is protruding too far, the...

+1 Sand the flanges. Machined flanges are never supposed to be painted.... especially with a wrinkle texture.

You don't need to remove the compressor cover c-clip. Hold the turbo upright with the comp wheel facing up. Give the turbine housing a few good hits with a hammer. It should separate. Obviously be careful removing the assembly, as you do not want to damage the turbine fins.

It's an HKS SSQV (or a knockoff). They make a recirculation kit for them. Buy that kit and hook it up to the rubber intake snorkel using the stock portion of hose if you can. Otherwise, home depot spa hose would do the trick.

As was this post. If you take issues with the thread, you can report it. The mods will sort it out as they see fit. Otherwise, the OP is looking for help. As terrible as his searching skills are, you should be happy he is containing all his questions to this one thread now and not creating yet...

No, I recommend searching next time as this is a commonly answered question.

But it's isn't really a rev limiter. It's a gimmick that cuts spark up top so you dump fuel into the exhaust for the "super cool flame." Frankly, we're all just trying to save you from wrecking your wire harness on a little toy for that JDM scene yo.

Realistically, No. The dohc heads don't clear the firewall. It's been done but you have to cut and extend sections of the firewall into the cabin.

I fail to see how the location or numbers involved will have any negative bearing on JAMs business. You're making it out to be the recipe for Coke or the General's secret spices. If someone is out to scam, they'll find a way to do it. Simple as that. They stamp the invoice number on the block...

Yes but it is a poor design. I've had brand new oem pcvs stick open in 100 miles or less. The kynar check valves are a petroleum resistant diaprham valve and not a ball and spring setup like the oem valve. The grime and the oil causes the oem valve to stick open. US plastics valve is rated from...

No mention of over heating or pushing coolant. Head gasket is highly unlikely for the condition you are describing. My bet is on a bad pcv valve letting boost into the crank case. Can push more oil out through seals and such. 150 across the board doesn't scream rings to me. Could still be the...

That isnt even remotely true anymore, especially if you truly have a 98+ block. Even the early 7 bolts are fine when built. Honestly, swaps are overrated and overdone.As for your goals, the list looks pretty good. Being that it isn't a 98+ Ecu, I see no need in tracking one down. Although...

Almost looks like washer fluid.

Yup I got an airhead with my previous order! Cherry too! :thumb:

OR, you can listen to what was given to you. When in doubt, test again. You clearly have an issue killing your battery. Find someone with a real load tester(ie Midtronics or the like), not autozone/advanced. CCAs are low when a battery has been discharged or a cell is damaged.....if you are...

Is the alternator a parts store reman? Frankly, it sounds like an intermittent alt problem. I had one that would slowly quit charging under load. Basically, I couldn't drive the car at night but it would function perfectly fine during the day. Used a great(and very expensive I might add) load...

Bogus has a great write-up: 2G 7Bolt Oil Squirter Block Off

A gutted cat is about the worst thing you can do. It creates an empty chamber about 3 times the size of the exhaust pipe where the exhaust gases will expand and slow down. The gases don't particularly enjoy compressing back down to the smaller exhaust pipe. Outgoing gases from the engine collide...

I'd be wary of using a cut crank. There's going to be a few who come out of the woods claiming it worked for them, but with cranks a dime a dozen, I wouldn't chance it. Even Bogus would recommend uncut.

I'm not entirely sure if the ring gears are different(obviously except being either an auto or manual due to different ratios). If they aren't, then yes they swap right in. Get in touch with TMZ performance (Twicks) and he'll be able to lead you in the right direction.

If you're asking about the entire diff "pumpkin" then no, it won't bolt up to the subframe. The differential itself bolts right up to 1G,2G, Evo ring gear. Not necessarily something most people can do though. It's absolutely crucial to set the backlash right.

Bingo! The turbo creates a low pressure zone. Unlike the pcv, this draws crankcase pressures out at both idle and WOT. A vented can will not function like this.

The internal gates are rated to about 8 to 10 psi so it's not surprising that it starts to open at 5.

Sign up for an account. Most automotive forums won't allow you to view their marketplaces without being a member. It's a subforum towards the bottom of the page. I do quite a bit of business with those guys over there.

They fit just fine but no, it takes a skilled shop to repair it not just anyone with a welder. It's a 3G wheel, you can find them in junkyards all the time. They go cheap enough on club3g. If you buy it for the other 3, just pick up a single one from a local junker.It's not some rare or...

Whats a "JDM" Engine?But seriously, there's thousands of 4g63s sitting around in junkyards. I can't believe people still buy into this crap.I hope that $1500 was for the engine and install, otherwise you've been had.As for your problem, I would absolutely demand the shop to fix...

Did you try lightly tapping the end of the flathead with with a hammer (which I see you did...would help to have reading comprehension dohh)? I'd be wary of cutting but I suppose it would work if you were extra careful. I suppose you could use a small fine toothed hacksaw for more control, but...

You'll have to work it free from the knuckle first. Remove the various control arms and the strut and you should have enough room to wiggle it out. I recommend spraying some good penetrating oil into the splines of the axle and praying that it isn't seized in the hub.Afterwards, you can pry...

From what I understand NPR is comparable to oem(may even manufacture for mitsu but correct me if I'm wrong)..... But for the love of all that is good, do not give dsmgraveyard your money. It's a disaster of a shop if there ever was one. Please just read the reviews on that particular "vendor"...

Could be spark blowout. You mentioned they were New plugs but not what brand. If it's the common Bosch platinums that every chain loves to push on these cars, there's your issue. These engines really only play nice with plain old ngk coppers bpr6es, 7es, or 8es depending on what your setup is...

Bogus hit the nail right on the head. Evo IX belts come Kevlar reinforced from the factory. Same thing as a fancy gates or hks Kevlar belt minus the color and far cheaper. IIRC, it's only a bit more $ than a standard oem belt which makes it a no brainer.

I hate to be that guy but are you sure you got all of the air out of the system? This all seemed to have started with what I am assuming is a leaky rad and a full coolant change let alone the two or three times you swapped thermostats. Is the pump discharging out of the weep hole?Unless the...

I see. Has anyone here ever had the chance to measure the actual drop though? It just seems like a massive drop in voltage in my opinion. I can understand at idle but it even dims the lights at highway speeds.

To resurrect the old horse, I too have a very similar experience. Using the turn signals results in the same oscillating effect shown in the video. Brake lights produce the same drop. Having access to a load tester (and an expensive one at that), entire charging system checks out. Idles at a...

I've seen many used Evo 3 manifolds for $100 or less. It wasn't suggested to buy new.Otherwise yes, the differences are obvious and exactly why I buy them when they come up used in the classifieds. :thumb: I always figure I'll find a use for them in future projects.

It's also largely unnecessary for many members, especially those with a more modest budget, unless you find one for a good deal. It's not to say the manifold is flawed, in fact, it is proven to gain over a stock 2g/Evo 3 manifold.The fact of the matter is the original poster asked what a...

It's supposed to use two crush washers, one on each side of the fitting. I'm unsure how that even managed to seal with only one crush washer.....

Just give them a call. Paul and Josh are excellent guys. They should be able to help you out for sure. OEM parts are duds sometimes and they understand that.

This information is wrong. The chra for the 14b is meant for a 14b compressor alone. The recessed lip for the compressor wheel is not large enough for any wheel larger than a 14b, thus necessitating the need for machining. It's not as simple as swapping in a superback oil plate and going. The...

Sounds like it has poly engine mounts.

4g64/63 rods are the same, keeping in mind 6 and 7 bolt journal differences do not allow the use of 6 bolt rods on a 7 bolt crank and vice versa. The major differences between the blocks are crank stroke and pistons.

The 2g water pipe returns into the thermo housing. The 1g pipe just connects directly with the lower rad hose.

I'm sitting here reading this thread trying to figure out what all this talk about JDM and "importing over from Japan" is all about. There are literally tens of thousands of 4g63 engines sitting around in this country. Miller alone probably has about 100 of them.