I am a DSM newbie in Canada where Mitsubishi parts are not plentiful. I cannot find an OEM Oil filter for my 1998 Eclipse GST. I have heard that Fram is crap so I am ruling that out as well as any Mopar parts. What about the Mobile 1, K&N, Bosch filters etc. I will be using Royal Purple...

Supposedly its the 05's that have the issue and of course I have one of the last models to leave the factory so you can imagine I'm not thrilled about living with the paranoia that accompanied owning a 2G on a new turbocharged car. With the SRT community being populated by mostly 16 year old...

I bought an SRT-4 and look what I brought with me from my DSM's.:pCase Number K93016699 Vehicle Issue Crankshaft front seal pops out of the front cover. Year 2005 , 2006 Model JR - Sebring/Stratus Sedan , JR - Sebring Convertible , PT - Chrysler Cruiser , RS - Caravan, Voyager, Town...

I agree. I wish the 6-bolt guys would just quit beating a dead horse.

Never seen a piston quite like that before. :eek:

I assume you are talking about the 1G oil supply line from the head. If so you can re-use it as well as the banjo bolt with new crush washers if it is in good shape but you will have to get a plug for the 2G oil filter housing. It would be easier to buy a stainless flex line and continue using...

FPgreen or FPred will get you there with better reliability than alot of the 50/60 trim turbos being sold at various vendors.

It is possible but not feasible. EVOIII 16G, 20G, or 50 trim would all be far better choices. There are many dabates about the effectiveness of the T28. I have one and IMO it's the worst DSM part purchase I've made to date (I've banished it to my winter beater) but some guys actually like...

I bought my type RS BOV off ebay for $149 and got the 32mm recirculation from extreme psi. I'm having the fluttering problems also. Even on the softest setting it flutters. :confused: Do any of the aftermarket BOV's work? :mad:

You can't have a street driven car with cams or headwork? Please explain. :confused: T28's, even the 14B can do high 200's on pump gas with the correct mods & tuning and the the EVO III is a better turbo than both of those. :confused:

If you're only looking for 330-350 whp and the car will be more than 85% street driven I would choose the EVOIII 16G. It's as close to the perfect street turbo aas there is for our cars and if you want a bit more power later you can always add a set of cams.I have an FPgreen and I get 20...

I have the 264/264 setup and it was barely noticeable with my FPT28 but with the FPgreen much more noticeable over 5500 RPM. I had to raise my idle to 1000 RPM to get it smooth but I have never had the car stall on me. You will loose a little responsiveness at lower RPM's and it will take...

That 0-60 time must have been for the 4-cyl model as I have Motor Trend & R&T reviews and they post 0-60 times of 5.8, 5.9 and both a 1/4 mile of 14.2 @ 100.9 mph. Those times are better than an RX8 and very close to the 350Z.Alot of you guys are missing the point with the 4G as Mitsubishi...

Okay. Thanks. Slowboys says it flow more so it must flow more. :rolleyes: I'm talking about flow-bench tested & dyno results not the it just plain flows morepimping that the vendor includes in their description.

The side the fuel door is on is usually always the opposite side the exhaust runs. On any single outlet exhaust car take a look at what side the muffler is on. The fuel fill door will be on the opposite side. It's not about style or convenience.

Have you seen proven numbers that it flows more than the EVOIII or 2G manifold or is this everyone's assumption because it is larger?

I like it and so far the reviews have been positive. Motor Trend said it is the best Eclipse ever but I take that with a grain of salt.Unfortunately the first few shipments to local dealerships in Calgary are already sold so I will have to wait until to July to test drive a GT to form a...

2G 7-bolt cranks all have their own serial number and proper bearing depends on which serial number your has. This contributes to my theory that Mitsubishi new about the crankwalk problem and made changes to the crankshaft & bearings from 95-99.

If you have a watercooled turbo it is a luxury not a necessity to have a turbo timer as there are still alot of original 14B & T25 cars running around that never had turbo timers or owners that would let the car idle after hard driving. If you have an oil cooled turbo it is a necessity.I...

Fluid in Auto's turn brown when too old not black. :rolleyes:

I focus on keeping LTFT at 0 as the STFT will always change from -2 to +2 for example depending on the time of day and temperature. If your LTFT is constantly at or close to 0 that means that your low throttle setting is about perfect. STFT are great for initial tuning but it's the LTFT that...

From the pics it looks okay. You will need a J-pipe, new oil return & supply line and new crush washers for the coolant lines which will fit with a little modification. You can get a braided oil supply line and run it from your oil filter housing or you can go to the dealer and get a 1G oil...

That number is dependant on altitude. In Calgary which is 5000 ft above sea level 12-14in/hg is normal.

Yes this is actually true. If your car is higher mileage and the tranny oil was never changed on a regular basis or at all, putting new fluid whether it be regular gear oil or synthetic can do more harm than good.

The mitsu composite gasket may not hold up at 30 psi but for anything up to 22 - 24 psi it will work just as good as the the metal ones and won't be a PITA to seal. I tried a cometic and couldn't get it to seal so I went back to OEM and no problems. :thumb:

T28 would be the wrong turbo if you are looking for high rpm thrust. It runs out of steam like the T25 (not quite as bad mind you) at higher rpm. You would need a 50 trim turbo or at the very least an EVOIII 16G with cams.

I bought a set of Denso iridiums and put them in my 2G 7-bolt and got misfires, took them out and tried them in my 1G 6-bolt and got misfires. I now run BPR7ES in my 2G & BPR6ES in my 1G with no problems.If you are running more than 17 psi you may want to try the BPR7ES plugs but I only...

:eek: My low throttle settings are -23 and my long term fuel trim is always 0 or +/- 1% which is about as good as it gets and my hi throttle settings are between -31 & -32 all this with Denso 660's. Are you sure those are 680's?

All you need is the software and make sure that you let digitaltuning know the Palm model you have so you get the correct patch cable and you'll be good to go.

After you upgrade your fuel system you will want to run at least 18 psi but even at 16 - 17 psi you should be able to tell that it's not a T25.

I believe for street discs 300 miles of stop & go driving should suffice so you may want to give it a few more days of city driving. Mine never smelled at all during break-in.

The squeak noise is perfectly normal. Turn up your radio and don't crush the BOV unless you absolutely have to.

If it has a cyclone intake it's not an EVOIII head which is the same as a 2G 7-bolt head. It's probably from a JDM Galant VR4 or EVOI or II. The cyclone intake manifold is useless.

Yes. Did you break it in before launching the car?

I have a ported FPT28 installed on both my 1G & 2G and have driven a 2G with an EVOIII 16G and I know what I'm taliking about. EVOIII 16G hits only slightly later but pulls much harder after 5000 RPM. If you really tried them back to back you would know.

I bought a Palm IIIc off ebay for $45 used. There are always a bunch for sale and I like prefer color over some of the older monochrome ones. You will need the software and patch cable from digitaltuning.com.

Get a logger ASAP. The baseline is just a reference start point to begin your low throttle tuning. You can use them but depending on your altitude & other factors your car will not be running optimum.

If you want marginal improvement over a T25, get a T28. If you are looking for a large improvement over the T25 get an MHI EVOIII 16G. They are both a simple install.

Looks great. :thumb: I had an SP on my old delsol and IMO it's the best cat-back for an N/A car. I love the oval muffler but wanted larger piping so I got the EVO.

Neither of my 4G63 engines have ever looked like that.

Highway: 3/4 Normal: 5/8 Idle: 1/3The benefits of removing the balance shafts. :rocks:

Brake cleaner works better than gasoline.

I actually prefer the 7-bolt engine for a street/track setup. It's smoother (one of the smoothest 4-cylinders I've ever driven) and more responsive than the 6-bolt. It's still alot stronger than 95% of 4-cylinder engines ever made and the crankwalk is kind of a bad rap as alot of these...

Wow. I forgot about this thread. The install was a snap. Pics are in my gallery.

No. You will have to weld on a 1G flange or get a Greddy BOV.

You may have to adjust your pedal travel. I had the same issue until I adjusted the pedal to my liking.http://www.roadraceengineering.com/clutchandflywheeltech.htm

I find the Termal R&D's to be a bit too loud for my tastes (I have one on my Talon). While they are nice and deep, the relentless droning can be annoying on long trips. IMO the Greddy EVO is the nicest exhaust you can get for a 2G. It's much quieter while cruising but nice and deep at WOT and...

You can't properly read knock on a 2G with the SAFC and what pressure value are you expecting?

It's not a matter of current. Alot of electronics require clean DC to function correctly. When you have poor grounding there will be alot of noise interference and while some electrical components may work some may not. I see it all of the time in my industry.